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basic na-t setup question

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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 04:16 PM
  #1  
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Default basic na-t setup question

I have a 92 sc300 automatic with 130,000 on the engine. No engine lights or whatsoever. Looking to do a na-t basic setup on my car and keep it automatic. I acquired. Some parts and wanted to know what else i need to do the basic na-t setup. These are the parts I have as of now.

Safc 2
Wastegate
Oil feed lines
Fmic turbo manifold
Intercooler
Downpipe
Tubing for turbo
Turbo

Those are the pieces I have as of now. Wanted to know if I needed anything else, any help would be awesome.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 04:31 AM
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Blow off valve and some sort of boost controller, unless you are using a specific spring rate for your wastegate. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade your fuel pump since it's relatevely inexpensive. It should be good for 7-10 lbs of boost, keeping it around 8 will be your safest bet since you are using a piggyback SAFC.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:58 AM
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First off, search, literally hundreds of threads about na-t builds. And research. You don't want to jump into this without a little knowledge of what's required.

Second, a "fmic" is a front mount intercooler, so you had that listed twice.

Basic parts list:
Turbo
Manifold
Fmic/piping
Oil feed/drain lines
Downpipe
Bov
Wastegate (not always needed)
Some sort of engine management
Other random miscellaneous parts

Good luck! Post some pics of the car!
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Here is some basic info that should get you started:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...A-T-conversion
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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using a safc with the stock ecu for na-t is a nightmare. I would not even wish it upon that drunk guy at the bar no one likes.
you may even find the car is slower after the turbo cause it will never boost right and idle horribly, seriously look into the tt ecu mod or just save up for a standalone.
Its very easy (compared to other cars) to install a turbo kit on these cars with a little research, but getting it to run right is the much harder part that no one considers at all when they first start out.
learn from our mistakes, avoid going na-t with the stock ecu like its the plague, and if you choose standalone be sure to factor in the price of at least a first "full" tune.

Last edited by Ali SC3; Mar 30, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
using a safc with the stock ecu for na-t is a nightmare. I would not even wish it upon that drunk guy at the bar no one likes.
you may even find the car is slower after the turbo cause it will never boost right and idle horribly, seriously look into the tt ecu mod or just save up for a standalone.
Its very easy (compared to other cars) to install a turbo kit on these cars with a little research, but getting it to run right is the much harder part that no one considers at all when they first start out.
learn from our mistakes, avoid going na-t with the stock ecu like its the plague, and if you choose standalone be sure to factor in the price of at least a first "full" tune.
I admit to being lazy and not having read the na-t threads to thoroughly yet, so not knowing is my fault, but its a very long thread. Is the general consensus being that the tt ecu works pretty well vs. a standalone? Spending 2k on a standalone is a non starter for me going na-t, just not worth it to me. Also, what is considered a good price on the tt ecu? Never looked before.

Last edited by scblackout; Mar 30, 2015 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
using a safc with the stock ecu for na-t is a nightmare. I would not even wish it upon that drunk guy at the bar no one likes.
you may even find the car is slower after the turbo cause it will never boost right and idle horribly, seriously look into the tt ecu mod or just save up for a standalone.
Its very easy (compared to other cars) to install a turbo kit on these cars with a little research, but getting it to run right is the much harder part that no one considers at all when they first start out.
learn from our mistakes, avoid going na-t with the stock ecu like its the plague, and if you choose standalone be sure to factor in the price of at least a first "full" tune.
^^^^^^^this. ..na ECU has no look up timing maps above atmospheric pressure, meaning boost..Na ECU during positive pressure will send timing all over the place....

How soon are you looking to do something .. I'm currently on aem v1 and have been for over 7 years and once I get a fresh assembly In there I am going with a ems that does flexfuel...my aem is tuned by alpha and literally drives like stock on 1100c injectors...I would be selling this together with his dli for Na application which is impossible to get now for under 1200...

Remember, my Na turbo is still on original 140k bottom end and been boosted since 2007 and at 600rwhp since 2010 and I attribute this longevity to being on a standalone and tuned by one of the best tuners in the world

Pm me if you want to talk more ,maybe even a payment plan

Last edited by lexforlife; Mar 31, 2015 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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yeah don't read the whole tt ecu thread, just the first page then post questions at the end like others.
its works great for most basic na-t setups especially if you have a 92-95 sc300 and use the JDM map sensor based ecu.
you get to run coilpacks if you want (recommended) and basically all the things you need and none of the stuff you don't need.
best part is the price vs. standalone you can shop around and get a setup for like 5-600 total with coilpacks and injectors etc.. and it wont need a tune.

if you have a 96-07 you can also use the map sensor type which works very well, or if you want to keep obd2 you can try and use a US ecu, but you will need a VPC or map ecu then as the US maf does not work well with our single turbo setups. those who run the map sensor ecu or convert the US one to map sensor they run just fine. again the only motivation to use the US one with the VPC is to keep obd2 working, if thats not a big deal then just use the simpler JDM ecu's that just have a map sensor stock.

do note that the standalone would not have obd2 either, but is also a good option if you are looking for lots of customization.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
yeah don't read the whole tt ecu thread, just the first page then post questions at the end like others.
its works great for most basic na-t setups especially if you have a 92-95 sc300 and use the JDM map sensor based ecu.
you get to run coilpacks if you want (recommended) and basically all the things you need and none of the stuff you don't need.
best part is the price vs. standalone you can shop around and get a setup for like 5-600 total with coilpacks and injectors etc.. and it wont need a tune.

if you have a 96-07 you can also use the map sensor type which works very well, or if you want to keep obd2 you can try and use a US ecu, but you will need a VPC or map ecu then as the US maf does not work well with our single turbo setups. those who run the map sensor ecu or convert the US one to map sensor they run just fine. again the only motivation to use the US one with the VPC is to keep obd2 working, if thats not a big deal then just use the simpler JDM ecu's that just have a map sensor stock.

do note that the standalone would not have obd2 either, but is also a good option if you are looking for lots of customization.
I have a 96 5sp and I am just trying to get a list of parts needed before I jump in. I want it to be as painless and inexpensive as possible.

Is searching for a non-vvti gte ecu enough, or are there other factors with the ecu that I need to ask about prior to purchasing one?
*not sure if difference for manual vs. auto, or if I should really spend the time to find an ecu from an original gte 5sp, or if 6sp ecu is ok... so many questions for a new sc owner to figure out.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 01:36 PM
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you want the manual 6 speed ecu, there is no 5 speed gte ecu. the ecu does not care how many speeds a manual transmission has it has no control over the manual transmission anyways.

if you had an auto you would have to get an automatic ecu, but since you have a manual you can use the manual 6 speed ecu which is the best one, or you can even use an automatic ecu but you will get some check engine lights on obd2. I would suggest finding the manual one since your car is manual they are usually a little more expensive but worth having the perfect ecu.

aristo ecu's are all automatic and usually those are the cheapest around $100 or so, but you can find the 6 speed ones for 150-200 if you shop around or even less if you get a good deal.

If that is the route you want to go I can help you with selecting the right parts, but a couple questions first do you have to take the car in for emissions? if not then use a JDM supra 6 speed gte ecu.

If you have to take it in for emissions and want that stuff to work you can use a USDM supra 6 speed gte ecu, but you will need a vpc as well which is the piggyback all the guys in the US use on those to make it work better with a single turbo (JDM ecu does not need this). without getting a VPC you would have to try and use the stock TT maf as in the US the ecu's use a maf and its very very touchy to get it to run correctly, most have not had success with the stock maf. the VPC converts it to use a map sensor like the JDM ecu does stock, which helps solve the problem.

once you decide that then we can tell you the rest of the parts you will need to make it work.

Not sure where the OP went, but if you need help with your setup just ask. on a 92 auto you can use a jdm ecu but it will need to be the auto one and there are a few issues with that on the gte ecu mod please read the 1st page of that thread.
there is also standalone where you don't have to plan around what components you need, but you will still have to install a map sensor, iat, and tune it even if its plug and play.

Last edited by Ali SC3; Apr 1, 2015 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
If you have to take it in for emissions and want that stuff to work you can use a USDM supra 6 speed gte ecu, but you will need a vpc as well which is the piggyback all the guys in the US use on those to make it work better with a single turbo (JDM ecu does not need this).

once you decide that then we can tell you the rest of the parts you will need to make it work.
Yeah, I really don't want to hijack his thread, but had one final question, and then I'll do more homework and start my own thread.

You mention getting a vpc for usdm so I did some searching around. It seems that one hasn't been for sale on sf since Jan, and they only seem to get maybe one a year for sale. I didn't see any on ebay. Are they really that hard to find?

I'm thinking if the vpc is indeed a unicorn, that it makes things really challenging.

*Emissions is not required for me but important. I've literally watched a 1jz sell on my local cl 3x in the past 2 weeks because it won't and can't pass. Funny part is the price drops 1k each time until eventually I'm guessing someone will pay to tow it away.... waiting... lol
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 12:06 PM
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yeah its always nicer when the car can work as originally intended even when doing performance mods there can be a balance. obviously if its a track car I would rip 95% of the stuff out of it, probably what will happen to that one.

you can also use a map ecu, any of the versions, it does the same thing as the vpc but has more features and is usually more pricey. the vpc comes up all the time though just browse every couple days, which you will have to do anyways to find an 96+ USDM 6spd 2jzgte ecu which come up randomly as well. I even see them locally sometimes on craigslist. I personally like the map ecu cause there are no chips to change if you change injectors, you can just upload a new file with the laptop and tweak it around which is really handy. I actually have one for my JDM ecu just so I can tweak the fuel and other settings.
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 08:45 PM
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You might want to look into a coil on plug setup or HKS DLI . the ignition setup on the na’s aren’t the most effective under boost. Plus you have to worry about the distributor leaking or the wire caps being sucked in by the turbo damaging the turbo wheel.
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