i guess its time to unwrap all the wiring.
lighting issues. please help
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, ON
harness relocaion issues. please help
so a few days ago i turned my headlights on (low beam) and my high beam came on with my low beam and since then my high beam light in cluster has been on. (i took out the bulb). but today i was driving home and all of a sudden my turn signal stopped working. when i put hazards on the bulbs works fine. but when i flick the turn signal up or down nothing happens. please suggest what i should do.
Last edited by sunny416; Aug 19, 2014 at 08:31 AM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: California
so a few days ago i turned my headlights on (low beam) and my high beam came on with my low beam and since then my high beam light in cluster has been on. (i took out the bulb). but today i was driving home and all of a sudden my turn signal stopped working. when i put hazards on the bulbs works fine. but when i flick the turn signal up or down nothing happens. please suggest what i should do.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, ON
so i relocated the harness. it had 3 wires that were cut due to the rubbing. i wired them back together however now my corner lights stay on (even with no key in ignition), my front blinker isnt working at all (no flashing what so ever) when i press the hazard light only the rear blink front stay on but dont blink. highbeam issue solved. now i took the battery off so i dont kill it.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: California
sounds about right, i know there are 4 solid green wires in the harness that all look the same that could be crossed. could cause that
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Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, ON
so all the wires that i touched before arent causing the problem. there were two wires that were exposed so i taped them up. the blue tape is from before (previous owner possibly).
so the first (black and yellow) second (green) and forth (green and yellow) were cut. the rest had wire showing. i also traced all the wires to see if there were any cuts but i could not find anything.
EDIT: im starting to get really annoyed. i cant locate the problem. and am considering just taking the corner bulb out and just drive with hand signals.
so the first (black and yellow) second (green) and forth (green and yellow) were cut. the rest had wire showing. i also traced all the wires to see if there were any cuts but i could not find anything.
EDIT: im starting to get really annoyed. i cant locate the problem. and am considering just taking the corner bulb out and just drive with hand signals.
Last edited by sunny416; Aug 19, 2014 at 08:44 PM.
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Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, ON
could a corroded wire be the culprit of my problem? if i want to cut a wire to replace it with a new wire how thick does that wire has to be? maybe i should get a new wire and tap it to the old one using wire tappers? if i do that with all the possible wires could my issue be resolved?
If you find a corroded or bare wire, by all means replace it. Even if that isn't the source of the current problem, it's bound to cause another problem down the road. I've done my share of wire taps and twist/tape jobs -- mostly for home audio on the latter -- but soldering and covering with heat shrink tubing is going to be the #1 choice of just about everyone. Crimped butt connectors would probably be #2.
When in doubt, use wire rated for 12 V automotive. I think most of it will be 18 ga, but you can double check for yourself with each wire to be replaced by just placing it in the various gauge holes of a wire stripper.
When in doubt, use wire rated for 12 V automotive. I think most of it will be 18 ga, but you can double check for yourself with each wire to be replaced by just placing it in the various gauge holes of a wire stripper.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: California
If you find a corroded or bare wire, by all means replace it. Even if that isn't the source of the current problem, it's bound to cause another problem down the road. I've done my share of wire taps and twist/tape jobs -- mostly for home audio on the latter -- but soldering and covering with heat shrink tubing is going to be the #1 choice of just about everyone. Crimped butt connectors would probably be #2.
When in doubt, use wire rated for 12 V automotive. I think most of it will be 18 ga, but you can double check for yourself with each wire to be replaced by just placing it in the various gauge holes of a wire stripper.
When in doubt, use wire rated for 12 V automotive. I think most of it will be 18 ga, but you can double check for yourself with each wire to be replaced by just placing it in the various gauge holes of a wire stripper.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 52
From: illinois
if the wires are not subject to intense heat (near the engine) then solder is fine. but if it's near the engine solder will just melt and you'll lose your connections. so it depends on the situation/location.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, ON
So I soldered all the (3)bad wires. And also the ones that had any damage on them. Plugged the battery back in and the driver side corner light came on as soon as I connected the battery. Then I Started the car and still no turn signals.
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