I've searched the forums, but couldn't find an answer. Would these rotors work? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=49340 They are Brembo dimpled/slotted rotors off a GS. I have 16" BBS rims, would I need to get bigger rims? Also could I still use my stock calipers, or would I need to get bigger ones as well? While we're at it, is this a good price, I don't think he's had them for that long.

 

To my knowledge of selling rotors, which most of you guys know that i've been through...

Brembo does not make rotors for our cars. Saying that drilling through the rotors will make it crack is bull. Many people in here have the real drilled/slotted rotors and I know some people will back me up. I've sold them to some members here.

You do realize that these rotors are aftermarketly done right? So the person whos making these rotors are only as skilled as his work. To not be able to drill through the entire rotor and say that drilling through it will crack is just obsurd. Drilling through the entire rotor has been done ever since they were created.

These will fit your car without any modifications whatsoever.

If you are interested in getting drilled/slotted rotors.

Send me an email at Tony@lexussc400.com and I'll give it to you cheaper for a brand new product.

Tony

 

I have to disagree.

If the drilling is done by a sharp drill bit then yes, it will not crack. But if the drill bit is at all dull then you will experience cracks. If it is done by an amateur then yes, it will crack. I'll take some pictures of my friends integra with micro-fractures on several of the drill spots on his powerstop rotors. Attached is a picture of real Brembo brakes from an AMG E50 (taken from kimble.org - while participating in the Gumball 3000). These fractures are rather large.

In my opinion, if you want the BEST rotors available then you will want to buy the EBC brake rotors for our cars. They are dimpled and have curved slots.

Tony is right in that Brembo does not make stock replacement rotors for your car... I don't even think they make anything smaller than 13" (not sure on that).

 

Jeez, those cracks look horrible. That's what pops in my mind when I hear "cross drilled." So I'm guessing that GS and SC rotors aren't interchangable, correct?? Where do you get the EBC rotors from, tirerack doesn't show show them for the SC300. (last time I checked)

 

Hellasboy, thanks for the pic. But you know that the Gumball 3000 race has LOTS of constant braking going on that VERY VERY highspeeds. Average speed is like 120-130mph.

There is nothing wrong with drilled/slotted rotors. I do believe that if you take it easy on them when you first get them to sort of break them in, they will not crack. This is from personal experience and from selling them for over 2 years.

I don't know but dimple drilling doesn't seem to do anything for me. ForNGoods, ChairMNoftheBoard, what do you guys think?

 

As ACleanSC4 pointed out, that is the results of a crazy race. If you REALLY want to get critical, look at the portions that do NOT have any cross drilling...noticed they're cracked too.

At any rate, I have x-drilled rotors now and I have NO cracks whatsoever with about 10K miles logged on the brakes. Of course, I broke them in properly.

I have also had x-drilled rotors before and I've never had cracking issues...unless you're tracking your car, you won't have issues (unless you bought some crappy rotors)...also, if you're at the point where you cracked some x-drilled rotors, then even SOLID rotors in the same situation will need to be changed out...

 

http://www.frozenrotors.com/pricingbrembo.html Then go down to lexus. It says it has them for the sc. Same size as the GS.

 

i'm not a brake expert or anything but i dont think my rotors are in any danger of cracking. I dont do much heavy breaking so hopefully i'm safe. so far the rotors i've gotten from tony (AcleanSC) seem to work perfectly fine but i probably only have 1000 miles on them at most.

manaray, u said u broke them in properly... what's the proper way to break them in??

 

When you get new pads and rotors, you don't just go out and burn up your local canyon... You have to gentle break them in by doing "braking excercises"...what brake manufactures call "bedding".

On my AP setup, this is what was recommended...

For the first 10 miles, light braking from 50-60mph down to 30mph in blocks of 5...do NOT attempt any high speed stops down to zero at this point...for the next 100 miles, increase the brake pressures similiar to stopping in traffic, again, avoiding if possible, full stops from above 70mph...for the next 100 miles, gradually increase the braking effort...after this, full power stops can be used.

Failure to properly and adequately heat cycle the discs can lead to premature warping, wear, and failure. At the start of a "session", use a minimum of one warming up lap for the brakes...ie, gradually increase the effort at each corner and do NOT drag the brakes under power as in left foot braking...

And most importantly, DO NOT LEAVE YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKES WHEN PARKED AFTER A TRACK SESSION (or in non-track cases, a "hot" run...)....this is true for ANY brakes folks...

What happens is that the brake pads sitting on the rotors creates a "hot spot" that can cause warping...

I know that's how a LOT of people have "warped" their supposidly "factory defect" rotors...