rotors
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
rotors
Somebody told me to get slotted rotors only and not the drilled & slotted rotors. But there is a big price difference in the two. Is it really that much of a difference? Is there even a difference, minus looks of course.
I could just get the plain jane rotors or the slotted drilled rotors better than the plain janes. I would assume the order would be as follows:
From worst to first:
Plain Jane Rotors
Drilled Rotors
Drilled & Slotted Rotors
Slotted Rotor
Anyone want to correct me? Driving me nuts.
Then Brembo or Bradi $%#%&&^ :eek:
I could just get the plain jane rotors or the slotted drilled rotors better than the plain janes. I would assume the order would be as follows:
From worst to first:
Plain Jane Rotors
Drilled Rotors
Drilled & Slotted Rotors
Slotted Rotor
Anyone want to correct me? Driving me nuts.
Then Brembo or Bradi $%#%&&^ :eek:
#2
Search Function Inc.
Actually stock rotors are the best. Sloted/drilled ones are known to produce some grinding sounds. Just get yourself stock rotors and EBC Green Stuff braking pads (way less brake dust) and you would be happy.
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Repeat -
Stick with OEM. If you're going to be running on a track all day doing extremely hot and hard braking than go with slotted or drilled rotors. Your other option is to go with a brake upgrade like bigger rotors and better calipers. This also includes getting a stronger master cylinder and for the best addition, stainless steel brake lines.
For street they are for looks, and like retrodrive said do nothing but add brake noise.
I had them on my car for about 3 months and mine warped pretty quickly. To be fair I didn't give them a good break in period.
In the end it was back to Toyota OEM rotors and pads.
Stick with OEM. If you're going to be running on a track all day doing extremely hot and hard braking than go with slotted or drilled rotors. Your other option is to go with a brake upgrade like bigger rotors and better calipers. This also includes getting a stronger master cylinder and for the best addition, stainless steel brake lines.
For street they are for looks, and like retrodrive said do nothing but add brake noise.
I had them on my car for about 3 months and mine warped pretty quickly. To be fair I didn't give them a good break in period.
In the end it was back to Toyota OEM rotors and pads.
Last edited by Lvangundy; 02-28-03 at 01:27 AM.
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
hmm.. interesting response, i have heard such good things about slotted, and looks is the least on my mind. my problem is my stock rotors are warped now and the brakes squeak. maybe because they are warped?
i heard slotted rotors fix this problem.
last longer, quicker braking, don't warp because air and flow through the rotor cooling it.
i don't really drive hard or fast, i drive it like an old man so i guess stock would be ok. just didn't want them to warp again or start squeaking again.
dang, now i am really confused.
i heard slotted rotors fix this problem.
last longer, quicker braking, don't warp because air and flow through the rotor cooling it.
i don't really drive hard or fast, i drive it like an old man so i guess stock would be ok. just didn't want them to warp again or start squeaking again.
dang, now i am really confused.
#6
VIP|EXEstyle セルシオ
iTrader: (3)
Sorry about the n00b question, but what exactly is a warped rotor? and how does it happen? One of you related it to squeaking...I was wondering if that's the case with my LS. It squeaks every now and then even when I'm not braking, I have to brake to make the squealing stop and sometimes it comes back and sometimes it doesn't. I'm wondering if it's the rotors, the brake pads (shouldn't be cuz they're not that worn out), or the shims?
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#9
Actually, "warped" brakes would cause a pulsation when you hit the brakes, which can be quite annoying. The warping is usually caused by hitting the brakes extremely hard while driving at high speeds. This causes extreme heat and can cause the metal to bend slightly. The easiest way to rectify that situation is to have the rotors cut, as long as the warping isn't too severe and they hadn't been cut before. The pads will have to be replaced too.
The squeeling is usually caused by the brake pads hitting rust on the rotors. An irregular surface on the rotor and/or pad can cause it too. Cutting the rotors and new pads is the best solution to this problem too. BTW, these problems almost always happen to the front brakes, so there is no need to do anything to the rears. They can be good for 100k miles easily without ever having to do anything.
The squeeling you get while not braking is more than likely your wear indicators. This means it's time to have the brakes replaced and the rotors cut or replaced.
The squeeling is usually caused by the brake pads hitting rust on the rotors. An irregular surface on the rotor and/or pad can cause it too. Cutting the rotors and new pads is the best solution to this problem too. BTW, these problems almost always happen to the front brakes, so there is no need to do anything to the rears. They can be good for 100k miles easily without ever having to do anything.
The squeeling you get while not braking is more than likely your wear indicators. This means it's time to have the brakes replaced and the rotors cut or replaced.
Last edited by tenpointed; 02-28-03 at 02:01 PM.
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