A little DIY procedure on the PCV valve replacement.
Not sure if this part is even on the regular maintenance schedule for our 4th GEN RX350's but being old school, I like to replace the PCV valve around 60,000 miles.
The part is available from Lexus or many aftermarket sources. The official Lexus part number for my Japan built 2018 RX350 is 12204-31150 and lists for $9.42.
I used a BeckArnley part number 045-0439.

First release and open the hood. The engine is now exposed.



Remove the engine cover by lifting it straight up. There are 4 rubber gromets on the underside of the cover that engage four metal pins on the engine. Set the cover safely aside.

The PCV Valve is now accessible for replacement.



Squeeze the PCV vacuum hose clamp and pull the hose back and off the PCV valve. Position the hose to the side.



You can use a 22mm deep socket and wrench or a box / open end 22mm wrench to unscrew the PCV valve from the valve cover mounting hole.



Below is a photo of the old PCV Valve.



Install the new PCV Valve. I couldn't find a torque spec but snug with no gap between the valve cover hole and the PCV valve will work fine. Re-attach the vacuum hose, position and snap the engine cover
back in place and you're all done.

 

There is no mention of the PCV valve anywhere in the RX 350 owners manual that I have. Put a new one in when you do your spark plugs, 'IMO', or at least every 100,000 miles. Cheap insurance.

 

Oh, it’s this easy? On the GS, it was so hard to access the PCV valve!
many thanks!

 

Per TIS:
Torque Spec is 5.0 N.M. Lube o ring with oil.:

 

Great info, Thanks.
For those without a NM Torque wrench, it's 44 LB-IN

 

How do you know that there is not a second PCV valve connected to the intake manifold !?

 

I'm not aware of more than one per vehicle.

 

Quick question - If this valve gets clogged shut, what could happen? And these pcv's from the rx, they are the old school type where there's a little 'pellet' if you will that rattles around in there?

 

A clogged PCV valve can set off a host of events. Most notably, increased crankcase pressure leading to oil seal failure/oil leaks. Replacement is the easiest approach, but in most cases, you can successfully clean them with parts cleaner and re-install (provided proper operation is checked during cleaning).

 

+1 - cheap insurance

 

@FlopTop04 - nice write-up, thanks for the contribution.

 

Just did mine today @ 75,000 miles.

Super easy job but I would highly recommend not tightening to torque spec. Just get it to snug and call it good.
The new PVC valves are plastic.....ask me how I know.

 

How did your old one look; gunked up much? Was the original PCV valve metal?

 

The old one looked fine.
Just another case of preventative maintenance. The cost was like $10....well times 2.

Identical to the old one....both plastic.

I picked up one for my wife's 4Runner at the same time (will change that in the spring when it gets a few more miles). The one for the 4Runner is the original metal.

With the valve cover being plastic and the PCV valve being plastic, I would be very careful torquing it down. I set my torque wrench to the spec in TIS and it snapped with very little effort. Next one went on to "snug".

 

On the PCV valves. I used to live in the desert. And I had to clean mine every other month

I just removed it and cleaned it with carburetor cleaner