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BTW, I ended up with KYBs instead of Sachs for 2 reasons:
The KYB is made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty.
Sachs is MIC or MIM and only has a 1 yr warranty.
We're keeping the car for at least another 5-10 years since it only has around 120k miles so it makes sense to get the KYB.
Again, thanks for all your help! You remind me of a few guys over at the 1st gen RX forum, as they are always there to provide support to the community! My son is driving the Coach Ed RX300 with rx330 wheels and still going strong at around 140K miles young!
Will post an update if I run into something while doing the swap.
I already thought about putting a protective sheet between the spring and the compressor shaft threads to prevent the threads from being stripped by the spring contact during compression as stated in the DIY.
I want to inform everyone NOT to buy the Tein EnduraPro+ struts & rear shocks for our cars. It’s cheap Chinese garbage that does not deserve to bear the Tein name. After just one winter, someone on the Lexus FB group saw a failure with their adjustment **** on a rear shock. Also, the piston has already seen some decent corrosion, which is something that should never happen on any shock/strut piston.
^^ Good job calling out this lousy choice. The best solution for these vehicles from a longevity standpoint remains getting Bilstein B4 or B6 shocks (assuming you can find them in stock somewhere).
Agreed, my Bilstein struts and shocks are holding up as strong as ever. I am also really impressed by their ability to resist corrosion as well.
Theoretically the 2014-2019 Highlander fronts would fit, as they share the same steering knuckle. Same brake hose mounting, strut mount cutout on the piston, sway bar end link, ABS sensor mounting and more. You would be using your stock strut mount except the annoying part - which is you’d need the 2014-2019 Highlander lower spring isolator and 2014-2019 Highlander front springs or 2016-2022 RX front springs.
This could lead to someone grabbing the lower isolators and going with 2016-2022 RX lowering springs to fit their car, as you’d only need those lower front isolators and lower rear isolators (I helped someone on the RX FB group put 4th gen rear hybrid springs on his 3rd gen to help him with towing - worked perfectly).
It’s still a mystery to why Toyota/Lexus changed the lower spring seat on the newer RX.
The Bilstein fronts that fit the RX are those from the 2008-2013 Highlander.
The Bilstein rears that fit the RX are those from the 2014 -2019 Highlander.
Yes, that is correct and is what I am running on my RX. However, due to the 2010-2013 B6 fronts being nearly impossible to find these days, if I had to go back and do it again I would convert my car to the 2014-2019 Highlander fronts. Is it possible? Probably. Is it ideal? No, as you need to source out other parts for it to work.
Hi All,
Just something to add on the SACHS struts. I just ordered a set from Rock Auto. They were listed as coming in a "Private Label Package" meaning coming in another brands box. Struts arrived today and turns out they are TRW part#s JGM4751SL and JGM4751SR. Based on this, Rock Auto also sells the TRW struts (which apparently are made by SACHS) for $25 less.
LAS VEGAS (Jan. 17, 2017) — Vehicle parts supplier ZF Friedrichshafen A.G. is combining its ZF Services and TRW Aftermarket units into one division — ZF Aftermarket — in a move designed to improve customer service, the company said.
ZF Aftermarket will market the TRW, Sachs, Lemförder, Boge and Openmatics brands of driveline, chassis and active/passive safety products.
ZF acquired TRW Automotive in 2015 and at the time integrated the operations in its Active & Passive Safety Technology Division. The combined company reported sales of $29.2 billion in 2015 and has a global workforce of about 135,000 with 230 locations around the world.
Last edited by Clutchless; Jun 14, 2022 at 10:24 AM.
Hi All,
Just something to add on the SACHS struts. I just ordered a set from Rock Auto. They were listed as coming in a "Private Label Package" meaning coming in another brands box. Struts arrived today and turns out they are TRW part#s JGM4751SL and JGM4751SR. Based on this, Rock Auto also sells the TRW struts (which apparently are made by SACHS) for $25 less.
Did you install them?
if yes, how is the ride quality?
Hi All,
Just something to add on the SACHS struts. I just ordered a set from Rock Auto. They were listed as coming in a "Private Label Package" meaning coming in another brands box. Struts arrived today and turns out they are TRW part#s JGM4751SL and JGM4751SR. Based on this, Rock Auto also sells the TRW struts (which apparently are made by SACHS) for $25 less.
Co-asking, I saw the TRW strut are still discounted whole sale. If you have installed them, can you kindly please share your impression? Stiffer or softer compared to OEM/KYB? Thanks!
I have them on my 2008 RX350. They're about as soft as OEM or a bit less stiff than KYB. They ride great and handle well too, they're made by Sachs which is an OE supplier to many European MFRs.
Same here when I did the rear struts a few months ago! The lower rear strut bolts were seized in and seemed to be infused in the strut lower bushing metal sleeve. After hitting them with a sludge hummer for a couple of hours along with using all kind of chemicals, I had to cut them below the bolts heads and drive them the opposite way. I then replaced all the bolts with genuine parts from Lexus after coating them with anti-seize. The new bolts were's not expensive and the Lexus parts gentleman said that replacing the bolts is always recommended when they swap struts at their shop. The top ones were driven out easy though!.
I was about to change my rear shocks but quickly went back to the drawing board when the rear bolts didn't budge with my impact wrench. May I know what tool you used to cut them off?
Same here when I did the rear struts a few months ago! The lower rear strut bolts were seized in and seemed to be infused in the strut lower bushing metal sleeve. After hitting them with a sludge hummer for a couple of hours along with using all kind of chemicals, I had to cut them below the bolts heads and drive them the opposite way. I then replaced all the bolts with genuine parts from Lexus after coating them with anti-seize. The new bolts were's not expensive and the Lexus parts gentleman said that replacing the bolts is always recommended when they swap struts at their shop. The top ones were driven out easy though!.
I was about to change my rear shocks but quickly went back to the drawing board when the rear bolts didn't budge with my impact wrench. May I know what tool you used to cut them off?
Have you tried soaking the bolts in PB Blaster or Kroil for a few days? That usually works for me with stubborn old rusted bolts.
You can remove the 3 bolts holding the shock top mount to the car then you will be able to spray the upper shock bolt from both sides. Or get some new or used upper shock mounts. Spray those 3 bolts with PB Blaster first before attempting to remove them. Do not think WD40 will help, it does not penetrate rust. You need a rust penetrating spray.
The bottom bolt may be more of a problem. Again soaking with PB Blaster, heating it up and multiple attempts with the impact wrench, both tightening and loosening.
A battery powered grinding wheel should be able to cut through that bolt. Lots of those at Home Depot or Lowes. I had to cut the front shocks off an old Ford Explorer a long time ago, not fun.
Last edited by Clutchless; Jul 12, 2022 at 04:41 PM.
I have them on my 2008 RX350. They're about as soft as OEM or a bit less stiff than KYB. They ride great and handle well too, they're made by Sachs which is an OE supplier to many European MFRs.
Thanks for sharing, I am going to buy Sachs from RockAuto. I actually wanted to purchase the cheaper TRW alternatives, but unfortunately they are not allowed to ship to California. As someone found out a few days ago, the Sachs strut is $25 more, but essentially the same part.