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I have a 2014 RX350, with 60,000 miles. I think the ride has gotten bumpier. Has anyone replaced their struts, and if so, noticed any difference in the ride? Also, I’ve heard of “quick struts” and was wondering if that is an option and if they are less expensive. I thought I would not have to replace my struts until about 100,000 miles.
roblward - welcome to CL. You should read the rest of the thread above as it answers your questions. Quick struts usually have lower quality components, especially the strut itself, the springs and strut mounts than OEM. None of those other parts usually wear out, just the strut and maybe replace the strut mount bearing at the same time while the strut is apart and the spring being moved to the new strut. A new strut mount bearing is $25.
You will have a better ride just replacing the struts and keeping your old hardware except the strut mount bearings than using a quick strut. You don't save that much labor cost with a quick strut, they are more for do-it-yourself folks who do not want to rent or buy a spring compressor.
However often the rear shocks fail before the front struts and the rear shocks are very easy to replace, there are only 2 bolts. Check them for leaks. If the bottom part of either rear strut looks wet or darker than the top, then they are leaking and need replacement. You can get OEM, KYB, Monroe or Bilsteins. If you get Bilsteins and want to keep a nice ride get the B4 model for the 2014 Highlander. The part number for both rear shocks is BILSTEIN 19282862. Rock Auto has them as do other online sources.
Any local gas station repair place can do this, and they could also replace your struts as millions of cars for the last 40 years have had strut suspensions and all are very similar.
They all have commercial grade spring compressors that make fast work of removing the spring. They are also well equipped to deal with the rusted sway bar link on your front struts as they often have to be cut off with a grinder and replaced with new ones.
In short try replacing your rear shocks first as they usually fail first and are far cheaper to replace.
Last edited by Clutchless; Jul 4, 2021 at 12:27 PM.
So I replaced my rear shocks with the Bilstein B6 and like reported it was easy peasy! I also did round two of my ATF flush and fill. I also had a basically brand new set of the 18” 2020 RX350 wheels that I took off of my old truck when I upgraded to the 20’s at about 1K miles. I tried them on to see if I would like the look, I’m on the fence as if I should sell them and buy the 20’s again or keep the 18’s.
I went way off topic to get to I was going to drop it off with the parts I bought for my mechanic to throw the front B6 / brakes on next week. Since I had the wheels off I was able to inspect a bit and realized the boot on the passengers side strut is shredded so I need to order two new ones. I also noticed these pictures below bushings are shot to death on both sides. Any idea what these are called and if just the bushing is replaceable, or is the entire expensive looking piece that’s needs to come out?
That is probably the front lower control arm bushing. You could replace the bushing, but considering the total picture, age and mileage etc you may as well replace the entire lower control arm with the ball joint as it does not cost that much more when factoring in labor. It is easier and faster to replace the entire control arm with its attached ball joint than to remove the old one and try to press out the old bushing then press in a new bushing and hope it stays in place and hope you find that your old ball joint is actually still good enough to keep using.
They are sold that way for about $74 each for the ones from Mevotech. I think Moog also makes them.
Last edited by Clutchless; Jul 5, 2021 at 06:52 AM.
That is probably the front lower control arm bushing. You could replace the bushing, but considering the total picture, age and mileage etc you may as well replace the entire lower control arm with the ball joint as it does not cost that much more when factoring in labor. It is easier and faster to replace the entire control arm with its attached ball joint than to remove the old one and try to press out the old bushing then press in a new bushing and hope it stays in place and hope you find that your old ball joint is actually still good enough to keep using.
They are sold that way for about $74 each for the ones from Mevotech. I think Moog also makes them.
Your right it does look like this is the culprit, Thanks again. Usually I’m a big O.E.M. guy for brakes/steering components. Looks like Lexus wants about $160 per for these and Napa parts about the same price. Rock auto has the Moog for $55 each, the Mevotech they have say for air suspension only. I’ve never used/heard of these brands are they quality parts? The price is tempting but usually with me when I try to go cheap I get the “you get what you pay” motto.
I installed Moog rear sway bar end links on my 2013 Subaru Outback 3.6R when I upgraded the rear sway bar in March 2020. They were affordable and better designed than OEM. Thus far they are holding up nicely.
Moog is an old well regarded parts brand. Mevotech is a newer parts brand with a growing reputation for quality. I installed Mevotech rear trailing arms on my RX and they were as well built as the OEM ones I replaced. Mevotech claimed to have made improvements, probably to the bushing. I looked again at the Rock Auto Listing for the Mevotech Supreme lower front control arms with ball joint and did not see any mention of the air suspension. The air suspension is a rare option.
I noted that the Mevotech Supreme and Moog front lower control arms looked the same. They look just like the front arms on my RX. I was looking at the Daily Driver parts listing. I would never get the economy parts.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=826
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=827
So I just finished getting all the Bilsteins onto the car! Could I possibly be the first person to do all four? Rears only took an hour for both. Front were a different story... Had to cut off sway bar links and compressing springs is not a fun task. All new hardware for the rear, every... single... bolt. New Moog end links up front complimented the Bilsteins nicely. I ran into issues with the B6 front strut piston bolts fitting on. They were 22mm hex instead of 19mm, so my socket wouldn’t fit in the mount. I would suggest getting new OE ones or equivalent. Thread pitch is M14 x 1.5 with a nyloc insert.
First impressions: Car feels a lot more composed and less floaty - however body roll is still very present. Nose dive has been cut down by a ton and comfort has increased massively just like I expected! The car almost enjoys powering out of corners now! This B6 setup just soaks up the bumps just as well as in every car I have tried it in. Was I expecting it to make the car corner like my Highlander? No. However, I knew that this wasn’t likely going to be the case. It is a 4500 lb car and I’d say the handling is exceptional for how heavy it is, especially with these nice Bilsteins installed! Love the classic Bilstein blue & yellow as well. Should have came with the car from the factory. The stock F-Sport suspension is very bouncy, and doesn’t do you any favours for cornering either. Once again, Bilstein delivers! I recommend this to all RX owners. Hard to beat this bang for buck.
I ran into issues with the B6 front strut piston bolts fitting on. They were 22mm hex instead of 19mm, so my socket wouldn’t fit in the mount. I would suggest getting new OE ones or equivalent. Thread pitch is M14 x 1.5 with a nyloc insert.
Congrats Matt! Hopefully I’ll be done with this soon. The rears were easy enough for an electrician to take on. I also need front end work so I’ll let my mechanic handle that project. I need to go order the boots today from the dealer so the nut on the very top the inner diameters are the same just the outer diameter is to big on the Bilstein? Anything else you wish you would of swapped out front?
The nut to order should be 9 / 2 which seem to be the same thing to me?
Struts
