I just called to check on my order with 4Wheel parts for my B6s and they said they are expecting a shipment in 3-4 weeks, the B4s might even come later. Rockauto nor anyone doesn't have them in stock either. Does anyone have a source for the B6 or B4s?

My front struts are almost completely dead from leaking, rears are ok, never really driven a car with dead shocks for this long and I'm afraid its going to cause damage specially to my brand new tires. Should I wait? I do have a 1K roundtrip highway miles trip coming up in next month so I'm thinking I should just get KYB struts and re-use my springs. Not sure how the Monroe strut assemblies are? Feedback on these? supposedly limited lifetime warranty on these, not sure what that really covers.

Help!!!!

 

Everybody is waiting for them to be imported. There is no place that has them and those on eBay are probably lying, if any claim to have them.
However you are in luck because Rock Auto has the Sachs front struts for the sport suspension which I have on my RX and they are excellent, almost equivalent to the B6.
You want Sachs
317642 and 317643.

Sachs is a German company and an OEM supplier to several German car companies for suspension and clutch parts.
https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/en/sachs/home/

Replace your strut mount bearings at the same time, it is no extra labor and they are not expensive, Get Toyota ones if you can, they are the best quality.

For the rear do not get the Sachs 316603 because they stupidly list it for both sport and non-sport and it is too soft. I had it on mine for a couple of months and replaced them with B6s.
Get KYBs for the rear or just wait since you said your rear shocks were okay.
Then when the B6 rear shocks show up you can swap them if you want. Labor on the rear shocks is only about an hour, with 2 bolts.

​​​​​​https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+absorber,7556

 

Clutchless to the rescue!!! I'm sure everyone (of course including myself) appreciates all the help you've given us!
Ok, I was wondering about those Sachs, I vaguely recall someone using them but have not heard a lot about them, gotta be better than the Monroes right :-) ?
Do they have a pretty good warranty too?
I do have the OEM bearing, insulator/boot (this is what our rx needs right?, the boot with the top spring seat insulator), tie-rod ends lined up.
Am I forgetting anything?

 

@Clutchless
Just did a search for SACHS strut reviews and one hit I got said that the ones he got were not made in Germany, and most are now made in Mex/China. Do you know if these ones are? thanks

 

Sachs are much better than Monroe. They handle and ride better and be more durable. I don't know what the warranty is, you have to look that up yourself, but I have had no problems over the last 3 or so years with them.

It sounds like you have all the parts but I am unclear on your terminology. I see you got a bearing. The spring insulator is nice to have but usually not needed. Did you get a new strut mount? If doing this yourself you may need a grinding tool to remove the old sway bar links. I had to cut mine off.

And a spring compressor, or take the removed struts to a local independent repair shop and they can compress the springs and swap them over quickly on their wall mounted commercial-grade or fork style spring compressor. Probably under $100 for both.

You need an alignment afterwards.

 

Most Sachs struts in the US market are now made in Mexico. I think mine were made in Mexico.
Those are the struts to get. It does not matter where they are built. If it is the right part number they will be fine. All big car companies and suppliers have plants all over the world to be near different assembly plants. There are a lot of car assembly plants in Northern Mexico.

A long long time ago I worked with a guy with the last name of Enz. He was an accident reconstruction expert who often testified in court.

 

Ok, SACHS it is!
Pretty cool job Enz had, always something new to keep you on your toes. I've got a boring IT job.

 

I do have a grinder and will rent a spring compressor from the auto parts store and I have an impact wrench to make it easier compressing the springs.
No new strut top mount/hat as they are expensive.
as for the boot, normally from what i;ve worked on, the top rubber spring insulator is separate from the boot, I got neoprene for my 4runner, but our RX has the insulator and shock dust boot are together?

 

I don't recall those details. Try a youtube video or someone's instructional photos on this forum.
You will need 2 batteries to compress the springs, unless you have air tools!

Start spraying all the bolts etc with PB Blaster days or weeks ahead of the project. It will make things go much easier. Just spray them many times to let it soak in.

One final trick. before removing the strut assembly from the car, break loose the top center nut that holds the spring on. Do not loosen it further. It is very difficult to do when it is out of the car and the strut wants to move while you need it to stay in one place as you break that nut loose. Again there are several youtube videos for the RX, The identical Highlander, Camry and ES350. All 4 are the same design.

 

I have an electric impact wrench. I do have air tools but they tend to be my last resort, doesn't make sense (to me) to fill up a big tank for a quick job. I'm sure for bigger jobs the electric won't cut it but I am able to loosen over tightened lug nuts on steel wheels courtesy of tire shops with it so it's strong enough.

Hey thanks for the tip of breaking/loosening the shaft nut! the impact gets that loose but sometimes it takes a few hits! If it fails, it's time for vise grips!
+1 on PB ahead of time. I do need to hit the bolts again since its been a while since I did that.

 

Put lots of grease on the threads of the spring compressor. I had to compress mine almost all the way to get it loose. I swapped batteries a couple of times, but that was with my old Milwaukee impact driver.
I later got a Ridgid impact wrench with 450 ft lbs torque that would have made much faster work of it and it has a 1/2 inch drive.

 

Working on this tomorrow, Pb blasted a 2nd time last weekend. Does anyone have the torque specs for this job? Can't seem to find em searching (the site and this thread), I must be blind!
Better yet the exploded pic from the FSM showing the torque specs.
Thanks!

PS is there a FSM download available?

 

Look at these Toyota Highlander step by step instructions with photos as it is a mechanical twin to the RX. The torque specs are in there somewhere and you may find the photos helpful.
​​​​​​https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...ement.1470946/

Found it
​​​​​​22mm bolts - 214 ftlbs
anti-rollbar link - 55ftlbs
abs/brake line bolt - 14ftlbs
upper strut mount - 63ftlbs
upper piston nut - 52ftlbs (these are nylock locknuts)
wiper nuts - 18ftlbs


The Toyota Nation author didn't have a torque wrench that went up to 214, his stopped at 150. So he just torqued to 150, then used a breaker bar + cheater bar to get it stupid tight.

The RX has rear shocks vs the Highlander had rear struts. Our rear shocks bolts torque to about 80 pounds each (that is not exact, but good enough and what I did)

 

Thanks again Clutchless!!!
Looking at that DIY I just realized I don't have new lower spring isolators . I doubt mine is in good shape and hopefully the stealership has them in stock.

I saw somewhere when someone used a hose that they slipped over the end of the springs, im sure it'll work but not sure how long they will last.

or re-use the old ones since they will be under a lot of weight anyway so I dont expect a lot of clunking from the spring contacting the lower seat,

 

Your old ones are probably just fine. I have never found them to need replacement.