New Daytime Running Lights (LED)
#61
It should not be a related problem. I wondered how you were doing j0emama. Remember there is a polarity to the LED lights, try reversing the + and - and see if that helps. The de-icer circuit is live as long as the car is running or the second push of the start button without pressing the brake peddle.
#62
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Sorry that did not work out for you. If you lived closer I could have helped you out. I hope they are able to get it going for you. Don't forget to post pics.
After thought.....on the deicer relay circuit make sure your are on the upper right corner connection spot or per the wiring diagram, position #1.
After thought.....on the deicer relay circuit make sure your are on the upper right corner connection spot or per the wiring diagram, position #1.
Last edited by MEP7557; 04-10-12 at 07:05 PM.
#64
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
The very last set of LED running lights I did are not as blue as the first 2 sets I tried. They actually compare to the Mercedes DRL's in the lower front bumper as far as color goes. They are pretty much white and I am quite happy with them.
Take a look here and you will see the difference.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...?highlight=drl
Take a look here and you will see the difference.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...?highlight=drl
Last edited by MEP7557; 08-09-12 at 08:27 AM.
#65
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Just stumbled across this thread. Awesome idea to use the DRL lights and they look excellent! I think I will take on this project with my 2010 RX. Thanks for sharing the photos and diagrams.
#67
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I don't run my fog lights at night since the DRL's stay on all the time. That would be too much light. I can however fix it so the DRL's turn off when the headlights come on and then use the fog lights instead.
#68
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The very last set of LED running lights I did are not as blue as the first 2 sets I tried. They actually compare to the Mercedes DRL's in the lower front bumper as far as color goes. They are pretty much white and I am quite happy with them.
Take a look here and you will see the difference.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...?highlight=drl
Take a look here and you will see the difference.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...?highlight=drl
#69
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I hope this helps.
I connected to the fuse box in the engine compartment/ drivers side. PDF 1 & 2, layout of the fuse box and the wiring diagram. I connected to the DeIcer relay #1 pin location. I used a crimped on spade connector to plug into the the #1 DeIcer Relay pin. This is a switched circuit so it is 'live' only when the car is on. This circuit is also protected by a 7.5 amp fuse (heater #2). For grounding I hooked directly to the battery. I loosened the nut that holds the grounding cable on, wrapped the wire around the nut and re-secured the nut.
Pic 1 & 2 show the actual connection. It is a black wire so it does not show up that well. I fed the wire up thru the bottom with the other wiring harnesses to keep it neat. The wires were then crimp connected all together, power feed and the wires that feed the DRL LED's. These lights came with cables that connect them to each other but I cut the one off before I realized that so, I had to improvise. One of the lights come with a connector and then 2 wires that come out of the connector to make your electrical connection. The other light would then plug into that connector. There are 3 wires that feed the light from the connector so if you cut off the connector be sure to properly re-wire the lights. The yellow wire needs to be hooked up to the positive wire. I ran the wire over to the other light under the black plastic engine covers along the radiator brace.
Mounting the lights is a matter of your comfort level. I mounted the passenger side with automotive double sided tape. There is a hole already there to fish the wires thru and there is plenty of surface to adhere to. The drivers side is a different story. I have the tow package so there is a lot going on in that area and not a lot to attach to. I did have to cut one of the vertical braces between the fins to get the light to set back enough. For the time being I was able to use double sided tape. I know this will not last and I am working on a permanent solution. I will have to come up with some sort of mounting bracket as these lights do not come with one.
The last picture is with my OEM DRL's converted to LED. Gone is the yellow. I will try to get some pics at night and keep you posted on the mounting. Feel free to ask any questions but I will be out of touch as of Thursday, off to Hawaii.
Later.
I connected to the fuse box in the engine compartment/ drivers side. PDF 1 & 2, layout of the fuse box and the wiring diagram. I connected to the DeIcer relay #1 pin location. I used a crimped on spade connector to plug into the the #1 DeIcer Relay pin. This is a switched circuit so it is 'live' only when the car is on. This circuit is also protected by a 7.5 amp fuse (heater #2). For grounding I hooked directly to the battery. I loosened the nut that holds the grounding cable on, wrapped the wire around the nut and re-secured the nut.
Pic 1 & 2 show the actual connection. It is a black wire so it does not show up that well. I fed the wire up thru the bottom with the other wiring harnesses to keep it neat. The wires were then crimp connected all together, power feed and the wires that feed the DRL LED's. These lights came with cables that connect them to each other but I cut the one off before I realized that so, I had to improvise. One of the lights come with a connector and then 2 wires that come out of the connector to make your electrical connection. The other light would then plug into that connector. There are 3 wires that feed the light from the connector so if you cut off the connector be sure to properly re-wire the lights. The yellow wire needs to be hooked up to the positive wire. I ran the wire over to the other light under the black plastic engine covers along the radiator brace.
Mounting the lights is a matter of your comfort level. I mounted the passenger side with automotive double sided tape. There is a hole already there to fish the wires thru and there is plenty of surface to adhere to. The drivers side is a different story. I have the tow package so there is a lot going on in that area and not a lot to attach to. I did have to cut one of the vertical braces between the fins to get the light to set back enough. For the time being I was able to use double sided tape. I know this will not last and I am working on a permanent solution. I will have to come up with some sort of mounting bracket as these lights do not come with one.
The last picture is with my OEM DRL's converted to LED. Gone is the yellow. I will try to get some pics at night and keep you posted on the mounting. Feel free to ask any questions but I will be out of touch as of Thursday, off to Hawaii.
Later.
#70
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(4Months know). With that said one relay failed but V-leds sent me a new one at no charge.
#73
HEY MEP
Guess what? I finally got those damn lights installed and working. You were right, in the end it was the mounting that was a Pain in the ***! After much time I figured it out and got them mounting and aligned correctly (lots of super glue).
Had to get a buddy to wire them (spliced wires), but they are finally in and working well. Even made it through some road trips already so the "worrying" of if they'll short out or fall off, is over.
Thanks for the help - I'll post pix soon.
Guess what? I finally got those damn lights installed and working. You were right, in the end it was the mounting that was a Pain in the ***! After much time I figured it out and got them mounting and aligned correctly (lots of super glue).
Had to get a buddy to wire them (spliced wires), but they are finally in and working well. Even made it through some road trips already so the "worrying" of if they'll short out or fall off, is over.
Thanks for the help - I'll post pix soon.