New Daytime Running Lights (LED)
#46
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Just go to e-bay and search for LED running lights. I will try to find the exact ones. I do remember they are 3 watts per bulb. There are 2 different versions of the same style, 1W and 3W.
#47
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-Style-L...item2a0ee0a09e
OK hopefully that is the link to the exact ones I bought. Let me know if there is a problem.
OK hopefully that is the link to the exact ones I bought. Let me know if there is a problem.
#49
I hope this helps.
I connected to the fuse box in the engine compartment/ drivers side. PDF 1 & 2, layout of the fuse box and the wiring diagram. I connected to the DeIcer relay #1 pin location. I used a crimped on spade connector to plug into the the #1 DeIcer Relay pin. This is a switched circuit so it is 'live' only when the car is on. This circuit is also protected by a 7.5 amp fuse (heater #2). For grounding I hooked directly to the battery. I loosened the nut that holds the grounding cable on, wrapped the wire around the nut and re-secured the nut.
Pic 1 & 2 show the actual connection. It is a black wire so it does not show up that well. I fed the wire up thru the bottom with the other wiring harnesses to keep it neat. The wires were then crimp connected all together, power feed and the wires that feed the DRL LED's. These lights came with cables that connect them to each other but I cut the one off before I realized that so, I had to improvise. One of the lights come with a connector and then 2 wires that come out of the connector to make your electrical connection. The other light would then plug into that connector. There are 3 wires that feed the light from the connector so if you cut off the connector be sure to properly re-wire the lights. The yellow wire needs to be hooked up to the positive wire. I ran the wire over to the other light under the black plastic engine covers along the radiator brace.
Mounting the lights is a matter of your comfort level. I mounted the passenger side with automotive double sided tape. There is a hole already there to fish the wires thru and there is plenty of surface to adhere to. The drivers side is a different story. I have the tow package so there is a lot going on in that area and not a lot to attach to. I did have to cut one of the vertical braces between the fins to get the light to set back enough. For the time being I was able to use double sided tape. I know this will not last and I am working on a permanent solution. I will have to come up with some sort of mounting bracket as these lights do not come with one.
The last picture is with my OEM DRL's converted to LED. Gone is the yellow. I will try to get some pics at night and keep you posted on the mounting. Feel free to ask any questions but I will be out of touch as of Thursday, off to Hawaii.
I connected to the fuse box in the engine compartment/ drivers side. PDF 1 & 2, layout of the fuse box and the wiring diagram. I connected to the DeIcer relay #1 pin location. I used a crimped on spade connector to plug into the the #1 DeIcer Relay pin. This is a switched circuit so it is 'live' only when the car is on. This circuit is also protected by a 7.5 amp fuse (heater #2). For grounding I hooked directly to the battery. I loosened the nut that holds the grounding cable on, wrapped the wire around the nut and re-secured the nut.
Pic 1 & 2 show the actual connection. It is a black wire so it does not show up that well. I fed the wire up thru the bottom with the other wiring harnesses to keep it neat. The wires were then crimp connected all together, power feed and the wires that feed the DRL LED's. These lights came with cables that connect them to each other but I cut the one off before I realized that so, I had to improvise. One of the lights come with a connector and then 2 wires that come out of the connector to make your electrical connection. The other light would then plug into that connector. There are 3 wires that feed the light from the connector so if you cut off the connector be sure to properly re-wire the lights. The yellow wire needs to be hooked up to the positive wire. I ran the wire over to the other light under the black plastic engine covers along the radiator brace.
Mounting the lights is a matter of your comfort level. I mounted the passenger side with automotive double sided tape. There is a hole already there to fish the wires thru and there is plenty of surface to adhere to. The drivers side is a different story. I have the tow package so there is a lot going on in that area and not a lot to attach to. I did have to cut one of the vertical braces between the fins to get the light to set back enough. For the time being I was able to use double sided tape. I know this will not last and I am working on a permanent solution. I will have to come up with some sort of mounting bracket as these lights do not come with one.
The last picture is with my OEM DRL's converted to LED. Gone is the yellow. I will try to get some pics at night and keep you posted on the mounting. Feel free to ask any questions but I will be out of touch as of Thursday, off to Hawaii.
#51
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
The wiring is actually the easiest part, the mounting is the tricky one. Also I no longer have these lights on my RX if you search my posts I have updated them to a better looking and whiter one. I will help you as much as I can, just ask.
link to updated LED DRL https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ed-drl-ii.html
link to updated LED DRL https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ed-drl-ii.html
Last edited by MEP7557; 02-10-12 at 12:52 PM.
#52
The wiring is actually the easiest part, the mounting is the tricky one. Also I no longer have these lights on my RX if you search my posts I have updated them to a better looking and whiter one. I will help you as much as I can, just ask.
link to updated LED DRL https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ed-drl-ii.html
link to updated LED DRL https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ed-drl-ii.html
#53
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Can't wait to see how you do and how they look. If you don't post pictures Anita will get on your case. LOL.
PS. I cut lot's of plastic out to mount those lights.
PS. I cut lot's of plastic out to mount those lights.
#55
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
jOemama
I am posting this here because of attached pictures.
I kind of steered you wrong earlier and I apologize. The picture of the connector that you sent me is what you are trying to plug into. So what you need is a spade connector that will fit into that connector.
As you can see from my photos I broke off the connector and then shoved that into the hole. Not too professional but it does work and it is snug. Let me know if you need more help. Of course after this you may question my help.....LOL
I am posting this here because of attached pictures.
I kind of steered you wrong earlier and I apologize. The picture of the connector that you sent me is what you are trying to plug into. So what you need is a spade connector that will fit into that connector.
As you can see from my photos I broke off the connector and then shoved that into the hole. Not too professional but it does work and it is snug. Let me know if you need more help. Of course after this you may question my help.....LOL
#59
I've still yet to figure out how to wire these suckers in. I've tried literally every connector they have at the auto parts store and nothing seems to fit. Even rigged one enough to jam it in there to fit and still couldn't get lights to turn on.
The truck is in the shop now getting something replaced which was causing the DRLs to not come on (they said some controller was busted) could this be possibly causing that particular slot not to work (deicer) making all my attempts for nothing?
The truck is in the shop now getting something replaced which was causing the DRLs to not come on (they said some controller was busted) could this be possibly causing that particular slot not to work (deicer) making all my attempts for nothing?
#60
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
It should not be a related problem. I wondered how you were doing j0emama. Remember there is a polarity to the LED lights, try reversing the + and - and see if that helps. The de-icer circuit is live as long as the car is running or the second push of the start button without pressing the brake peddle.
Sven: The lights that I was referring to are the ones from XKGLOW.COM . Not the Audi style ones. The Audi style ones were to blue for me.
Sven: The lights that I was referring to are the ones from XKGLOW.COM . Not the Audi style ones. The Audi style ones were to blue for me.