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A few months ago, I disconnected my battery as a precaution before doing some work on my 13 RX350 (this was back when I still had the old battery - the one I changed last week as I stated above). The work took a while, like a couple of hours, and after reconnecting the battery my presets were gone. The Infotainment did the cold boot thing that it does and said not to disconnect power while it was booting. I should add that I have factory Nav with parking assist.
This is why I did the trickle charger method when I changed by battery last week. At one point, one of the alligators came off the battery lead, but only for a few seconds. So I can confirm that it takes more than a few seconds for the presets to be lost. I'm not sure how long, but the TIS says this:
INITIALIZATION
1. PROCEDURES NECESSARY WHEN BATTERY TERMINAL IS DISCONNECTED/RECONNECTED
NOTICE:
After the engine switch is turned off, the multi-media module receiver assembly (w/ Navigation System or w/ Parking Assist Monitor System) records various types of memory and settings. As a result, after turning the engine switch off, make sure to wait at least 60 seconds before disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.
Last edited by AlgoTrader; Dec 1, 2019 at 06:14 PM.
Happened to me last week. Turned the car on in the morning and it lit up at random. 112k miles, it was a bad battery. Dealer replaced it and seems all is well.
My car was driving fine until today where the check AWD system, Trac off, and the orange triangle ! light showed up. I started the car and I noticed that the entire vibrate is vibrating a bit. When I started driving a bit, I noticed that accelerating will make the car vibrate more. I looked through previous threads about similar problems with the solution being tire alignment and CV axle. Are there any other possibilities? Please advise. I'm from Canada and my warranty just ran out, I have also driven the car for 30k miles.
Edit: I put my car on park and revved the engine and there is no shaking. Also, if I let my car roll, it's not smooth, it's like something is preventing it from rolling forward.
Edit 2: So I went to the mechanic and the code reader displayed that I have 2 broken ignition coils in back of the engine and it can be the reason why the entire car shakes when accelerating.
Last edited by rtcrow; Dec 30, 2019 at 08:56 AM.
Reason: Went to the mechanic and found the solution
Hello. I got into my care this morning and it won't start up. the lights and things inside start flashing, but the warning sign of Check AWD comes on the display.
It feels like the steering wheel and the gas pedal are locked. I have been reading the blogs and it sounds like it could be the battery or the gas cap not tight enough? Suggestions. I have a mechanic who I am waiting to hear back from as well.
My car is doing the exact same thing right now. What ended up being wrong with your car?
rtcrow - How many miles are on your car in total? You said you had driven it 30,000 miles, but did not state the year, then said it was out of warranty.
Coils usually do not go bad. Sparkplugs should be replaced at 100,000 miles and it is a good idea to replace all the coils at the same time since the labor is several hundred dollars to get to the rear bank (back of engine)
So if you have to replace those coils, replace the sparkplugs at the same time!
2015 rx 350. I actually made a post in that section of the forum, but I guess a mod moved it here.
I bought the car October 2015, so the warranty just ended. The mechanics code said I have 2 bad ignition coils in the back so to the mechanic's suggestion I replaced the 3 in the back.
I would get a second opinion due to the high cost to replace those coils and the facts that they rarely fail and no one here has complained of coil failure this early.
You should take it to the Lexus dealer. Do not tell them the coils are bad. Just tell them your symptoms. If they say the coils are bad, ask for goodwill from Lexus to fix it if they say it is not covered.
However, the issue may be covered under the longer powertrain warranty or the even longer emissions warranty.
Almatrix - it is most likely your 12 volt battery is failing and the low voltage is triggering all the warning lights. That is the most common cause. Have Advance Auto or Autozone test your battery for free. Winter is when most batteries fail.
The cold makes them weaker and the cold makes it harder to start the engine due to the cold making the oil thicker.
2010 RX 350 Car starts, check engine and AWD light on but wont go to reverse
My car is starting up, but the check engine and AWD is on and wont go to reverse or drive mode. A few weeks ago I smell some burned fluid/oil near the hood.
Any idea whats wrong with it?
Hard and close to impossible to diagnose your symptoms over the internet. You need to have a shop look at it. First check your oil level before driving anywhere and then your second move is to have your battery tested as a weak battery is the main cause of this issue.
Oil leaks are rare but if you have the tow package and have not had the oil cooler lines replaced, they may be leaking and can rip blowing out all your oil in seconds and destroying your engine. If they are leaking then Lexus will fix it for free. If you have vent slots inside the front of the drivers side front tire wheel well, then you have the tow package as those vents are for the transmission cooler.
2011 RX350 AWD/TRAC CNTL/ABS Warning Lights all ON
So it has been raining here in Atlanta for about a month straight. On Thursday morning, while driving to Clearwater FL, the wife “drove through a large puddle” on the highway and “felt the tires slip”. Then the following warning lights came on: Check AWD System, Check Engine, and the TRAC Control (?) symbol. What happened and is it safe to drive until I can get it looked at? Anything I can do myself to remedy this issue or do I need to take it to the stealer?
I have a Lexus Rx350 2015, I got new wheels on my car and a week after the sensor light keep jumping off and on. I took it to the shop they made the light go off but it came back on. I am wonderful what is wrong?
Sophiethec - Did they move your TPMS sensors from the old wheels or did they install new ones? It sounds like they need to do a better job of programming the new TPMS sensors, or else one of them has a bad battery and needs to be replaced. They can scan the sensors with their TPMS programming machine and identify if any of them have a bad battery and need to be replaced. Maybe they need to have another more skilled Tech do it next time. I have heard of others with similar issues and usually it was operator error programming new TPMS sensors.
Coirhino - Hope that your car dries out in a few days and those lights go out. You may want to have Advance Auto or AutoZone clear your codes and hope that does it. If those don't work, then take it to a shop.