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I might have to try that! I have a US address I can ship it to so that’s going on the list! Thanks for the suggestion! Kleen-Flo engine flush didn’t do much so I kind of gave up but I should try again with the BG stuff.
Matt,Remove tthe v/c's & use diesel to clean the sludge & crud from the heads as well as the drain back gallies....
I cleaned all the sludge out on the inside but the only thing I didn’t try was cleaning out the oil galleries with gas or diesel. I still get that stupid rattle every time I start the car. Maybe I’ll try the front some day. I dread having to go back in and do the rear valve cover again, that was hell on earth. Curse you transverse V6 engine mounting
Now that you mention it, I think it may be old damage. While there's still more metal shavings than say my Highlander, it's steadily decreasing each time I do the oil which is reassuring. Although, this engine is definitely more tired despite the fact that it still runs a 0-60 mph time better than the factory claimed time and overall runs great other than the big timing cover leak and annoying VVT-i rattle every time I start it. I'll just run it and see what happens, and I am definitely prepared to throw an engine at it. I couldn't see myself owning another car quite as good in the future, so I am sticking with it indefinitely if I can.
Nothing too crazy in the past four months, mostly just keeping the RX maintained. I ended up replacing three of the four doors of my car with ones from a Canadian-made 2005 RX330 in the same colour I found in the junkyard. The PO of my car hit a big snow bank and dented the two passenger side doors. This wasn't easily noticeable, but it bugged me quite a bit and they were getting some decent rust at the bottom so I replaced them. I also replaced the driver rear door as it also had some pretty heavy rust near the bottom. The Canadian RX's doors and all their respective parts fit perfectly despite different part numbers. The vapor barriers were also different and far superior, so I used those in the back. The front ones unfortunately did not survive so I'm going to have to re-make those. I had to re-do the sound deadening on all the doors which sucked, but this time I did a more thorough job and covered all the door harness wires in Tesa tape to stop any future rattles dead in their tracks!
I finally replaced all my door hinges because they were all blown out and had tons of play. While doing that, I also replaced all the weak door checks and also replaced my body-coloured door handles with the RX330's ones as these were in spectacular shape. The spoiler I pulled off that car went on a friend's 2006 RX400h, so that's another Canadian part that while different, had zero issues fitting on a Japan car! Replacing the front hinges requires pulling the front bumper and fenders. That was a good time to inspect for any damage or rust. Nothing weird found which was reassuring! I cleaned up all the rust and painted it to stop it dead in its tracks.
No more ugly dinged up, rusty doors!
I also ended up replacing my Nolathane steering rack bushings with ones from Energy Suspension for the 05-15 Tacoma. The Nolathane bushings were just way too soft and got badly squished when torqued down to the factory spec of 52 ft lbs! It was leading to my VSC kicking on for no reason on and off highway off-ramps and my alignment had a mind of its own as the steering rack was moving! The Energy Suspension bushings also have far superior zinc-coated hardware that is much easier to install and the bushings themselves are super firm! The Nolathane bushings had a separate washer and collar which made installation a lot more annoying. Cannot recommend the Nolathanes sadly! Save up for the ES bushings if possible.
Added an LS460 light-up accessory port to my car! Since then, I have found some other options that would likely work from a GS/IS and ES. The LS ones are LED, while the others have replaceable 74 type bulbs. Ones from the Highlanders and RX300 do not have an easily replaceable bulb.
October 15th - October 16th, 2023:
Drilled out the failing rivet on the bracket (one that holds the cover that used to be over the PS reservoir) that my catchcan is attached to. Nut & bolted it and the catch can is super firm now!
Added an illuminated cruise control stalk I pulled from a junked 2015 RAV4. The stalk was originally blue, so I swapped the LED to white to match the interior
Added light-up mirror switch from a 2013-2018 Toyota Avalon!
Edit:
Dec 5th, 2023:
Finally got the front doors fully-deadened and put back together! Previously, I mentioned that the vapour barriers were beyond repair, so I had to make new ones. I used the old ones as a template and used some vapour barrier material lying around from a reno on our house.
With all the wires covered in Tesa tape and every big hole in the door covered with deadening, there are no rattles no matter how high you crank it! It really helps to put some deadening behind the mirror control module and that little metal bracket that holds the screw for the door panel.
Just like the factory barrier, I had to add a piece of tape for the flap to close where it’s open for the wires to go through. I need to brush up on my arts and crafts, but it’s functional! I used butyl tape from Dicor to hold it to the door.
Now for the real news! Two days ago I picked up THIS
A cheap 2GR-FE from a 2011 Sienna! 200k km on it and looks so clean you could eat off it! Turned over nice with a breaker bar and 22mm socket, and when I looked into the intake and cylinders with an inspection cam, I didn't see any "malice in the combustion palace". It needs head gaskets (has the infamous coolant leak some of these had) but was running before they changed it for the customer. Came with everything minus the accessories and a bunch of spare parts + the ones already on the engine (coils, fuel injectors, etc). Since it's 2010+ it has the proper metal oil cooler lines and metal bank 1 vvt-i line. That also means it has the updated cam phasers! I'm planning on taking this apart and rebuilding it and having it on stand-by as a spare for my RX. Potentially even a swap for my 2002 Highlander. Depends what car needs an engine first! Now I have a spare U151F AND a 2GR, so the swap on the Highlander is entirely possible!
2024 summer checklist:
Replace leaking engine oil cooler o-ring.
Install power steering cooler
Install front header w/ new OEM studs, nuts and gasket after cleaning mating surface
Get two 8" Magnaflow high-flow cats and a 2.25" x-pipe and front pipe made
DIY install rear header and get exhaust made
Tint front windows
Install aftermarket headunit (reverse cam wiring is already wired)
Get coilovers
Figure out IS350 brake booster (Almost there!)
The checklist hasn't progressed much, but the headunit and subwoofer install will be in the next update! I've pretty much got all the wiring figured out and just picked up an iDatalink Maestro for the steering controls. Stay tuned for that!
Matt - I wanted to extend a personal and public "thank you", your research and mention of using the Ford front sway bar link to replace our rear sawy bar link I thought was briliant! Mine was in need of help last night so used your suggestion it worked like a charm. Not enough people get thanks/appreciation for their hard work helping others you're an asset to this forum sir. It is people like yuorself that take the time to so well detail theri DIY's that pave the road for others to not only svae a lot of money but not get themselves into a mess. You research saved me from buying OEM ones for @$100 each to going to Amazon and getting both for $35 shipped... saving me $165 or 83%
THANK YOU for the kind words! Feedback like this gives me all the reason to be as detailed as possible in the posts and share as much as I can! I just finished ordering all the components I need to do a stereo on the car, and I will be sure to document it down to every connector I bought and more!
I recently did my stereo, opted for the Atoto S8 on Amazon, runs @$350 for the head unit, wiring adaptors, rear camera and faceplate. Love it! Suggest taking a look
Nice! I have my headunit all ready to go and the reverse camera wiring and cam installed from a while ago (wiring is just sitting unplugged behind dash). I'm deciding to run the factory speakers off the headunit's power, delete the factory amp and replace it with an Apline amp which will then run a small 8" subwoofer in the back off the original 30 amp wiring. It's going to be awesome, I bet! I'm going to get a box made too so it's a perfect fit that contours to the interior.
[QUOTE=MattRX;11523897]Alright, so nothing major has happened on the RX which is why this post has been a little dead. HOWEVER I need to document some stuff here so I have an organized/easy place to go and check my checklist, etc. so, I hope this is interesting enough! With that, I also have some more updates and future plans which I will also get more in-depth with at the end of the post. A lot of this stuff has been documented in other posts, but I feel like it would be nice to tie it all together in here.
2004-2009 Mark Levinson models have really nice metal mesh dash speaker grilles vs the flimsy plastic ones Pioneer models come with. Pair these less-restrictive grilles with the 3.15" Avalon dash speakers and the better mounting surface to add foam and you have yourself a no-brainer free junkyard upgrade! PNP fit!
Lookin' good! It also really shows off your dash speaker
TC grille installed finally! I much prefer the horizontal design vs. vertical, and it reminding me of my Highlander is another awesome bonus. I had to replace most of the hardware as I wasn't in the most ideal situation, but it worked great in the end! More about it in the post above!
Buick 3-note horns installed (Notes A, F and C). Yet another mod that I miss from the Highlander. Some LOUD horns! Unlike the Highlander, our larger RXs have the room to fit the big ol' Delco Remy metal horns from Buicks, Cadillacs and other GM cars from the 70s / 80s / 90s. They don't make them like they used to! Wired to a 30 amp waterproof 2008-2019 Grand Caravan relay, and 20-amp inline fuse. Mounted that relay in the same spot as the Highlander too (driver side near fuse box).
WOW! This is one of the best things I have done to the car! It's finally as fun as the Highlander now (maybe!). Some nice responsive and stiffened power steering by swapping the guts of a 2005-2010 Scion TC PS pump into my original RX pump. The Scion pump is almost 100% identical internally except for the pressure and flow valves, but externally the bottom hole isn't threaded so you have to swap those over. I also rebuilt my pump with a seal kit and it is super smooth, quiet and leak-free now! Nice, weighted steering and great feedback but still not overly firm. It's a little heavier than my Highlander which is a good thing for me! This was the final piece of the puzzle in making this thing feel more fun and sporty. It's a GREAT match to the 2001-2003 Highlander steering rack and polyurethane rack bushings.
Eventually, I'll install my power steering cooler to complete the package (if I can find those darned brackets).
Now that the RX is becoming more and more fun to drive, two things are clear as day. One: This thing needs an exhaust. Two: Wallet emptying is inevitable (refer to reason one)
✅ Headers (Weapon R - #953-204-121)
❌ Catalytic converters (2x 8" Magnaflow cat 2.25" in/out - #53955)
✅ 02 bungs (M18 x 1.5)
❌ Front pipe bank 2 (Needs to be custom made and enlarged to 2.25")
❌ Rear pipe bank 1 (Needs to be custom made to fit rear header)
❌ X-pipe (Needs to be custom made or bought)
✅ Middle resonator (22" oval resonator 2.25" in / 2.5" out from 2015-2022 Mustang GT)
✅ Rear mufflers (2x 14" Magnaflow muffler 2.25" in/out - #14325)
✅ Exhaust tips (9" angled tips w/ chrome finish from 2011-2014 Mustang GT)
Headers? - Check
So Matt, the header on the left is the bank 2 one (front) & the one on the right is for bank two? Like to see your Y pipe setup.......
2023 checklist:
- Replace leaking engine oil cooler o-ring.
- Install power steering cooler
- Install front header w/ new OEM studs, nuts and gasket after cleaning mating surface (Bumper has to come off for all this crap anyway so do it all at once)
- Figure out illuminated window switch wiring (fully-lit switch was a fail, so trying top-lit one)
- Get two 8" Magnaflow high-flow cats and a 2.25" x-pipe and front pipe made
- DIY install rear header and get exhaust made
- Install aftermarket headunit (reverse cam wiring is already wired)
- Install LEDs into upper info screen
- Reinforce oil cach can mounting
- Get front windows tinted to 25%
- Get coilovers (eventually)
Yep! For the Highlander’s y-pipe it’s a 2.25” in to 2.5” out. In reality the pipes were actually 2” in and 2.5” out but could never find that size so went with the 2.25”. I think the 2GR might have a similar size (I know it’s 2.5” out for sure), but I never checked the in size. That is definitely the single best exhaust modification you can do on these cars.
I think it's the hardest on a 1MZ-FE, there's no easy way to unbolt it because it's welded to the bank 1 manifold. 3MZ and 2GR-FE might have the exact same y-pipe, it looks the same looking at comparison pictures.
