Oil Filter change 07 RX350
01-06-09, 02:59 PM
#1
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Oil Filter change 07 RX350
What panel needs to be removed in order to get to the oil filter? I noticed that there is an exposed drain plug that I assume is for oil. I also noticed a small panel (appox 6" X 6") just foward of the exposed drain plug. Once removed it appears to be another drain plug that requires a square head bit for removal. Does anyone know what this is for?
01-06-09, 09:48 PM
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The small one you are referring to is the one for the oil filter. The square drive is removed allowing the oil to drain from the filter housing prior to removal to replace oil filter cartridge. Make sure you get new O-rings for reassembly.
Dave
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01-07-09, 09:36 AM
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The square plug is part of the oil filter housing. Loosen it with a 3/8 rachet and extension.(have drain pan under it first). Then after oil drains out, you can loosen the housing that covers the filter. Remove old filter, clean housing up, replace both o-rings(1 on housing and 1 on plug that you removed initially to drain oil from housing). reassemble and add oil. 
01-07-09, 01:22 PM
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Remove the two bolts and remove the panel. There is a oil filter housing cap that has to be removed to drain the filter housing. That is the 3/8" drive hole you see. When you buy a Toyota/Lexus oil filter, the drain tool is included. You just add a hose to it to make it work. Now you need a tool to remove the filter. It is a 64mm 14 flat tool that helps remove the housing. See the link below.
http://www.toolsource.com/toyota-lex...-p-100298.html
It really is an easy oil change to do. The large splash panel does not have to be removed. Just torque the oil filter housing back at 25nm or about 18 ft lbs. And don't forget to get a drain plug washer. They are made to be crushed one time.
http://www.toolsource.com/toyota-lex...-p-100298.html
It really is an easy oil change to do. The large splash panel does not have to be removed. Just torque the oil filter housing back at 25nm or about 18 ft lbs. And don't forget to get a drain plug washer. They are made to be crushed one time.
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01-07-09, 06:10 PM
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I can vouch for the ease of this oil change. I just did it this evning. What I was wondering though is what type/size hose others use with the filter drain plug?
Thanks
Thanks
06-13-11, 11:27 AM
#11
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Here is a DIY oil change procedure with PICTURES. The GS350 and RX350 are done the same way. The old spin off type oil filter went away with the 2007 model year. You should not need to use the ramps with the RX350.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pictures.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pictures.html
06-14-11, 02:57 PM
#12
Ditto about the ramps being unnecessary. I usually drive onto a few bricks laid flat for a bit more clearance but that's all. (By bricks I mean inch and a half thick.)
Funny how they give you the O rings and the housing drain tool with each filter but no drain plug washer. They can be reused without leaks but replacing them is a better idea.
The photos in that other thread are helpful but that looks to be a horizontal housing (hard to tell if it's just the angle of the photos) and there's nothing about draining the housing before unscrewing it.
After you've drained the oil from engine via the oil pan drain plug and waiting for it to finish trickling out, remove the small access panel for the filter housing. It's downward on the RX350. When you look up you will see a square opening for a 3/8" socket. It may look to you like it's in metal that is part of the entire housing but in fact it's just a small disk a couple inches in diamete centered in the bottom of the filter housing. When you unscrew that you might get a little bit of oil but there is a spring loaded closure that keeps most of the oil in the filter housing in place until you push the tool up inside.
There is a small chance that the 3/8" socket will unscrew the entire housing if the bottom cap was overtightened last time but if so don't be alarmed but get your catch pan under it if you're unable to hold it from turning. Stuff some rags around the opening or consider removing the entire lower cover. This is unlikely to happen however.
Once you have the filter housing drain cover off take the tool supplied with the new filter, hook your hose onto it, and stuff it up in hole that's above where you just took the cover disk off. You will need to push against the force of the spring holding it closed. Some oil will then come out and run out your hose. What kind of hose? Whatever works. I had some 1/2" outer diameter clear vinyl and was able to stuff it into the *inside* of the outlet end of the tool and that works fine. A larger diameter would work to go over the outside and might be even better. It only needs to be a foot long or so so you can direct the oil into your pan. Take a tool to the home center and find something that works. I'd bet a piece of junk garden hose would work.
Going back to the photos in the other thread, just before installing the new main O ring and filter element would probably be the ideal time to put the end cap with its own small O ring back into place on the filter housing.
Follow the photos for the rest.
As someone else has said, remember when replacing the filter housing (applies also to the drain cap underneath) that the O rings do the sealing so it's not necessary to screw it back supertight.
Steve
Steve
Funny how they give you the O rings and the housing drain tool with each filter but no drain plug washer. They can be reused without leaks but replacing them is a better idea.
The photos in that other thread are helpful but that looks to be a horizontal housing (hard to tell if it's just the angle of the photos) and there's nothing about draining the housing before unscrewing it.
After you've drained the oil from engine via the oil pan drain plug and waiting for it to finish trickling out, remove the small access panel for the filter housing. It's downward on the RX350. When you look up you will see a square opening for a 3/8" socket. It may look to you like it's in metal that is part of the entire housing but in fact it's just a small disk a couple inches in diamete centered in the bottom of the filter housing. When you unscrew that you might get a little bit of oil but there is a spring loaded closure that keeps most of the oil in the filter housing in place until you push the tool up inside.
There is a small chance that the 3/8" socket will unscrew the entire housing if the bottom cap was overtightened last time but if so don't be alarmed but get your catch pan under it if you're unable to hold it from turning. Stuff some rags around the opening or consider removing the entire lower cover. This is unlikely to happen however.
Once you have the filter housing drain cover off take the tool supplied with the new filter, hook your hose onto it, and stuff it up in hole that's above where you just took the cover disk off. You will need to push against the force of the spring holding it closed. Some oil will then come out and run out your hose. What kind of hose? Whatever works. I had some 1/2" outer diameter clear vinyl and was able to stuff it into the *inside* of the outlet end of the tool and that works fine. A larger diameter would work to go over the outside and might be even better. It only needs to be a foot long or so so you can direct the oil into your pan. Take a tool to the home center and find something that works. I'd bet a piece of junk garden hose would work.
Going back to the photos in the other thread, just before installing the new main O ring and filter element would probably be the ideal time to put the end cap with its own small O ring back into place on the filter housing.
Follow the photos for the rest.
As someone else has said, remember when replacing the filter housing (applies also to the drain cap underneath) that the O rings do the sealing so it's not necessary to screw it back supertight.
Steve
Steve
Last edited by filmteknik; 06-14-11 at 03:20 PM.
06-20-11, 06:57 AM
#13
The photos in that other thread are helpful but that looks to be a horizontal housing (hard to tell if it's just the angle of the photos) and there's nothing about draining the housing before unscrewing it.
After you've drained the oil from engine via the oil pan drain plug and waiting for it to finish trickling out, remove the small access panel for the filter housing. It's downward on the RX350. When you look up you will see a square opening for a 3/8" socket. It may look to you like it's in metal that is part of the entire housing but in fact it's just a small disk a couple inches in diamete centered in the bottom of the filter housing. When you unscrew that you might get a little bit of oil but there is a spring loaded closure that keeps most of the oil in the filter housing in place until you push the tool up inside.
There is a small chance that the 3/8" socket will unscrew the entire housing if the bottom cap was overtightened last time but if so don't be alarmed but get your catch pan under it if you're unable to hold it from turning. Stuff some rags around the opening or consider removing the entire lower cover. This is unlikely to happen however.
Once you have the filter housing drain cover off take the tool supplied with the new filter, hook your hose onto it, and stuff it up in hole that's above where you just took the cover disk off. You will need to push against the force of the spring holding it closed. Some oil will then come out and run out your hose. What kind of hose? Whatever works. I had some 1/2" outer diameter clear vinyl and was able to stuff it into the *inside* of the outlet end of the tool and that works fine. A larger diameter would work to go over the outside and might be even better. It only needs to be a foot long or so so you can direct the oil into your pan. Take a tool to the home center and find something that works. I'd bet a piece of junk garden hose would work.
Going back to the photos in the other thread, just before installing the new main O ring and filter element would probably be the ideal time to put the end cap with its own small O ring back into place on the filter housing.
Steve
After you've drained the oil from engine via the oil pan drain plug and waiting for it to finish trickling out, remove the small access panel for the filter housing. It's downward on the RX350. When you look up you will see a square opening for a 3/8" socket. It may look to you like it's in metal that is part of the entire housing but in fact it's just a small disk a couple inches in diamete centered in the bottom of the filter housing. When you unscrew that you might get a little bit of oil but there is a spring loaded closure that keeps most of the oil in the filter housing in place until you push the tool up inside.
There is a small chance that the 3/8" socket will unscrew the entire housing if the bottom cap was overtightened last time but if so don't be alarmed but get your catch pan under it if you're unable to hold it from turning. Stuff some rags around the opening or consider removing the entire lower cover. This is unlikely to happen however.
Once you have the filter housing drain cover off take the tool supplied with the new filter, hook your hose onto it, and stuff it up in hole that's above where you just took the cover disk off. You will need to push against the force of the spring holding it closed. Some oil will then come out and run out your hose. What kind of hose? Whatever works. I had some 1/2" outer diameter clear vinyl and was able to stuff it into the *inside* of the outlet end of the tool and that works fine. A larger diameter would work to go over the outside and might be even better. It only needs to be a foot long or so so you can direct the oil into your pan. Take a tool to the home center and find something that works. I'd bet a piece of junk garden hose would work.
Going back to the photos in the other thread, just before installing the new main O ring and filter element would probably be the ideal time to put the end cap with its own small O ring back into place on the filter housing.
Steve
Successfully did my first oil change on the RX this weekend. However, i was unable to unscrew the smaller part of the filter out and do the whole drain plug thing. I used the assenmacher special oil filter tool and a 15/16 deep socket, but i had to use an extension bar for extra torque to get the whole filter assembly off!
i ended up just taking out the entire oil filter assembly and had a secondary catch pan underneath it. there had to have been at least a half quart of oil in the assembly. just for kicks, when i replaced the whole assembly i tried taking off the smaller drain plug round, but still wasn't able to. not sure how i'll be able to take that part off without taking off the whole thing since that's on real tight and i just hand tightened the assembly.
Thanks for all the pics and help though. this is probably the easiest oil change i've done. with my 07 accord i have to take off the front passenger wheel to even reach anything, and i have to jack it up. i got ramps for that car next time.
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