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ABS code 32. Replaced the front left ABS sensor, reset the ABS light. Now the ABS always kicks in when applying the brakes. I checked the tone ring, it looks normal. If I unplug the sensor, ABS light goes back ON and no ABS stops kicking in. What could cause it? Thanks,
Last edited by glenpointe; Dec 13, 2021 at 09:13 PM.
I still believe that one of the Tone Rings may be cracked/broken and the sensor can't read/count the teeth.
You can unplug the ABS Sensor electrical connection from the proportional block under the hood on the passenger side fender. The braking system will revert back to standard braking(as without ABS). Codes only come up for the faulty sensors(and other issues), but not for broken tone rings.
And yes, the ABS/VSC light will remain lit in the dash. And no, you won't have ABS nor VSC while it's unplugged...until you get it fixed. But this is better than having the ABS kick in every time you step on the brake pedal. And trust me, you won't like the ABS kicking in on slippery surfaces as our winter will be arriving soon, especially when braking on a down grade.
I still believe that one of the Tone Rings may be cracked/broken and the sensor can't read/count the teeth.
You can unplug the ABS Sensor electrical connection from the proportional block under the hood on the passenger side fender. The braking system will revert back to standard braking(as without ABS). Codes only come up for the faulty sensors(and other issues), but not for broken tone rings.
And yes, the ABS/VSC light will remain lit in the dash. And no, you won't have ABS nor VSC while it's unplugged...until you get it fixed. But this is better than having the ABS kick in every time you step on the brake pedal. And trust me, you won't like the ABS kicking in on slippery surfaces as our winter will be arriving soon, especially when braking on a down grade.
Code 32 is for left front sensor. Replaced the sensor and the ABS kicks in every time applying the brake. So I left it unplugged. I examined all four tone rings, and noticed the right rear has a small crack, and the rest is OK, but the left front set code and acts up.
You can try moving one sensor to another location [not a good idea as the vehicle ages], but that is one way of confirming the problem and source. I say this as there is a possibility of a brand new sensor to be bad ... specially if it is aftermarket and or from a suspect source.
Scope is needed to really see/observe the shape and size of pulses.
The cracked right rear one may be causing the low speed activation. Check if any are loose too.
I had low speed activation with no codes thrown
But why if I disconnect the front left sensor, ABS light turns back on but ABS activation stops. If I reconnect the ABS sensor, I can clear code, no light but ABS kicks in when applying the pedal. So I left the front left ABS sensor disconnected.
But why if I disconnect the front left sensor, ABS light turns back on but ABS activation stops.
Because that causes ABS to be disabled completely.
If I reconnect the ABS sensor, I can clear code, no light but ABS kicks in when applying the pedal. So I left the front left ABS sensor disconnected.
The computer is getting bad data it thinks the wheel is locking when it isn't. If you can't find any mechanical problems next step is watch live data on a scan tool.
Because that causes ABS to be disabled completely.
1) ---> are you saying I can disconnect any sensor (not necessary front left sensor) and ABS won't pulsating again?
The computer is getting bad data it thinks the wheel is locking when it isn't. If you can't find any mechanical problems next step is watch live data on a scan tool.
2) ---> Why when I read code, it says 32 (front left sensor), but should be 33 (rear right) because it has a crack on the tone ring?
2) ---> Why when I read code, it says 32 (front left sensor), but should be 33 (rear right) because it has a crack on the tone ring?
Maybe you have more than one problem, or the computer is reporting incorrectly. Either way you have to replace the axle with the cracked tone ring before you can diagnose any other potential issues.
2) ---> Why when I read code, it says 32 (front left sensor), but should be 33 (rear right) because it has a crack on the tone ring?
Your situation sounds a bit confusing because it sounds like you had no issue prior to replacing the sensor. How long was the ABS light on?
Leaving out your specific situation, this is my understanding:
When the computer detects a fault the code is stored, the ABS light illuminates, and the ABS system is disabled.
It is also possible there is a subtle, undetected fault that causes the system to erroneously activate the ABS.
I have had this problem, caused by slipping tone rings. I addressed it by disabling the ABS system
Your situation sounds a bit confusing because it sounds like you had no issue prior to replacing the sensor. How long was the ABS light on?
Leaving out your specific situation, this is my understanding:
When the computer detects a fault the code is stored, the ABS light illuminates, and the ABS system is disabled.
It is also possible there is a subtle, undetected fault that causes the system to erroneously activate the ABS.
I have had this problem, caused by slipping tone rings. I addressed it by disabling the ABS system
The ABS light was ON when purchased the car. Read ABS code and it says 32 (front left ABS sensor). Inspected the sensor, and it looked like damaged. After installed the new sensor, reset the ABS (light turned off), but ABS kicks in every time applying the brake. Disconnecting the sensor, brake is normal, but ABS light turns back on. Removed all 4 sensor to inspect the tone rings. Noticed the right rear has a small crack, and other three are OK.
Below is my assumption:
Car has two issues:
1) Front left sensor is bad (set code 32; ABS system disabled)
2) Rear right tone ring also bad (does not set code if tone ring is bad)
After replaced the sensor, code goes away, ABS is enabled and started working but it detects the bad signal from the rear right sensor ---> leads to ABS kicks in.
The ABS light was ON when purchased the car. Read ABS code and it says 32 (front left ABS sensor). Inspected the sensor, and it looked like damaged. After installed the new sensor, reset the ABS (light turned off), but ABS kicks in every time applying the brake. Disconnecting the sensor, brake is normal, but ABS light turns back on. Removed all 4 sensor to inspect the tone rings. Noticed the right rear has a small crack, and other three are OK.
Below is my assumption:
Car has two issues:
1) Front left sensor is bad (set code 32; ABS system disabled)
2) Rear right tone ring also bad (does not set code if tone ring is bad)
After replaced the sensor, code goes away, ABS is enabled and started working but it detects the bad signal from the rear right sensor ---> leads to ABS kicks in.
The OP tried to replace just the ring but I believe the new one did not stay in place.
There's another long thread where the poster changed the right rear axle.
The OP tried to replace just the ring but I believe the new one did not stay in place.
There's another long thread where the poster changed the right rear axle.
Thanks, new tone ring is inexpensive. If you went this far, I'd replace the old one with a new one instead of gluing the old one back. Also, Op said to find out which tone ring is bad... just disconnect each ABS sensor one at the time to see the ABS chattering stops. This statement isn't correct. If you disconnect any one of the four sensors, ABS light will turn on, ABS will be disabled and chattering will stop. What I did was removing sensors one at a time, manually spun the axle by hand to examine the rings.