VSC and CEL code P1349
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
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From: OH
VSC and CEL code P1349
RX 300 silversport (sweet ride btw) with 145k on it.
primary vehicle for my wife. We were going out of town and after driving for 20 miles we got the VSC and CEL.
Autozone used their scanner and gave me Code P1349.
I wanted to confirm I need to pull land replace the VVT Solenoid(oil control valve[OCT]) and clean the filter.
If this is correct it would also be greatly appreciated if you knew the part number/brand of the OCT to purchase.
I greatly appreciated BearsLexus DIY with pictures, that helps tremendously in locating what I may be working on.
Thank you
primary vehicle for my wife. We were going out of town and after driving for 20 miles we got the VSC and CEL.
Autozone used their scanner and gave me Code P1349.
I wanted to confirm I need to pull land replace the VVT Solenoid(oil control valve[OCT]) and clean the filter.
If this is correct it would also be greatly appreciated if you knew the part number/brand of the OCT to purchase.
I greatly appreciated BearsLexus DIY with pictures, that helps tremendously in locating what I may be working on.
Thank you
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
Part number is listed in there.
OBDII diagnostic simply report a problem area, the actual problem my not be the control valve or plugged filter(s). One has to diagnose. Lexmex pointed out that first check the filters and the move on to the valve.
Salim
OBDII diagnostic simply report a problem area, the actual problem my not be the control valve or plugged filter(s). One has to diagnose. Lexmex pointed out that first check the filters and the move on to the valve.
Salim
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: OH
Thank you for your quick response!
I do see two part numbers listed but which is for the rear bank?
just wanted to make sure I get the right part for the rear bank, which I believe is bank 1.
ALSO, do I need to soak the bolts in lubricant before removing being that it's been on there for 12 years? I usually do when I am doing break or something but I have never really had a bold directly on the engine.
I do see two part numbers listed but which is for the rear bank?
just wanted to make sure I get the right part for the rear bank, which I believe is bank 1.
ALSO, do I need to soak the bolts in lubricant before removing being that it's been on there for 12 years? I usually do when I am doing break or something but I have never really had a bold directly on the engine.
Last edited by Drewman84; Dec 1, 2013 at 03:07 AM.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
Sorry I dont know which part# goes with which valve.
The difference is based on the angle between the hold down bolt hole and the electrical connector.
The valve is held down by a single bolt with very slight torque and should come out easily. The problem usually is with the valve itself, which is gets stuck in the hole due to time and O ring. I suggest you break the seal by twisting the valve. Avoid using the connector to develop the torque.
The filter screen is secured by a bolt and crush washer which looks like oil drain plug washer (different part number). This comes out easily too. The screen is tapered. The wide side goes in the hole first. and the narrow side fits in the bolt.
Salim
The difference is based on the angle between the hold down bolt hole and the electrical connector.
The valve is held down by a single bolt with very slight torque and should come out easily. The problem usually is with the valve itself, which is gets stuck in the hole due to time and O ring. I suggest you break the seal by twisting the valve. Avoid using the connector to develop the torque.
The filter screen is secured by a bolt and crush washer which looks like oil drain plug washer (different part number). This comes out easily too. The screen is tapered. The wide side goes in the hole first. and the narrow side fits in the bolt.
Salim
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: OH
I was able to get the rear solenoid off and the filter! I simply cleaned the filter and reinstalled everything....of course the CEL is still on.
Do you know the part number for the filter at least?! I am going to private message bears and see if he can help identify which solenoid is the rear.
Do you know the part number for the filter at least?! I am going to private message bears and see if he can help identify which solenoid is the rear.
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CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
I was able to get the rear solenoid off and the filter! I simply cleaned the filter and reinstalled everything....of course the CEL is still on.
Do you know the part number for the filter at least?! I am going to private message bears and see if he can help identify which solenoid is the rear.
Do you know the part number for the filter at least?! I am going to private message bears and see if he can help identify which solenoid is the rear.
Facing the connector, orient it so the two splines on the side of the plastic connector are facing down. Connect ground to the pin on the right and +12v to the pin on the left, you should see the plunger move and return when you disconnect 12v.
For me the Bank2 was easy to pull but the bank1(near the fire-wall) was stubborn. Twisting simply moved the cover and I had to wedge mine out from the base with a screw-driver.
I did caution you about the filter- screen. Mine just fell out of the hole and I assembled it wrong till I opened the second one.
The coil should read about 7ohms.
Salim
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: OH
Parts are on order from sewell (nice club lexus discount!). Thing is my wife drove it to the store today (snow is coming) and she didn't have any CEL!
Guess we will keep driving it local for a while and see how it does. Maybe cleaning the filter helped and it just took some driving to clear the code.....
Guess we will keep driving it local for a while and see how it does. Maybe cleaning the filter helped and it just took some driving to clear the code.....
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: OH
Parts installed today. Wasn't too bad at all the second time (first time I just cleaned the filter).
I noticed the new filter fit a lot more snug in the bolt that the old filter.
I had the ECU fuse out during this so all lights we off when I started it up. Plan on an hour trip tomorrow so we will see how it goes!
I noticed the new filter fit a lot more snug in the bolt that the old filter.
I had the ECU fuse out during this so all lights we off when I started it up. Plan on an hour trip tomorrow so we will see how it goes!
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: OH
The Sensor and Filter seemed to correct my check engine light.
I have drive 200 miles over multiple days and trips.
Thank you to the community for the knowledge and parts discount from sewell!
-Andrew
I have drive 200 miles over multiple days and trips.
Thank you to the community for the knowledge and parts discount from sewell!
-Andrew
Pit Crew
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 111
Likes: 5
From: NY
Sorry I dont know which part# goes with which valve.
The difference is based on the angle between the hold down bolt hole and the electrical connector.
The valve is held down by a single bolt with very slight torque and should come out easily. The problem usually is with the valve itself, which is gets stuck in the hole due to time and O ring. I suggest you break the seal by twisting the valve. Avoid using the connector to develop the torque.
The filter screen is secured by a bolt and crush washer which looks like oil drain plug washer (different part number). This comes out easily too. The screen is tapered. The wide side goes in the hole first. and the narrow side fits in the bolt.
Salim
The difference is based on the angle between the hold down bolt hole and the electrical connector.
The valve is held down by a single bolt with very slight torque and should come out easily. The problem usually is with the valve itself, which is gets stuck in the hole due to time and O ring. I suggest you break the seal by twisting the valve. Avoid using the connector to develop the torque.
The filter screen is secured by a bolt and crush washer which looks like oil drain plug washer (different part number). This comes out easily too. The screen is tapered. The wide side goes in the hole first. and the narrow side fits in the bolt.
Salim
Thanks!
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
There is a DIY courtesy bearlexus.
Please use search or look at the stickies.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ement-diy.html
Salim
Please use search or look at the stickies.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ement-diy.html
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Dec 13, 2013 at 08:31 PM.
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