I performed this repair on both the driver's and passenger's door on my wife's vehicle. The replacement motor was locking up occasionally on the driver's side and the door wouldn't unlock with the key. I opened it up to replace the motor again. I had seated the gear axle so deep onto the motor that I could not fit the gear puller in there to get it off. Using alternative methods I was able to get it off the motor, but I cracked the axle piece in the process. Does anyone know where I can find a new one without buying a whole new actuator? For clarification I'm talking about the piece you pull off the motor with the gear puller, it's small and metal.

 

That would be the worm-gear (spiral gear that it on the motor shaft).

If you read the thread from start to end, you would come across a note that says measure the spacing, before you take the gear off and when installing the gear, try to match the gap.

Your best bet would be to look for a non-working lock-actuator unit. You can try contacting salvage yards. [LKQ comes to mind]

Salim

 

I did try to match the spacing, but when I was squeezing it in place it went from a huge gap to no gap at all.

It's not actually the gear that's messed up, it's the piece that inserts into the gear. Is there a special name for that?

 

Photo would help in identifying the name.

Salim.

 

So Natsibley, ur saying that the electric motor shaft is being pushed into it's own body?

 

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

 

I dont think this part has a name ... just a description.

Poor man' option: [this is what I would do]
Epoxy the thing on the shaft.
File it down to shape.
Know that the next repair may not be possible


Have the piece machined:
Would be a fun trade-shop project.
Machine shop rates ($100+/hr) may be too steep.
Call sewing machine repair shop to see of they know who has mini-lathe.

Keep looking for a non-working actuator ... ask local Lexus dealership if they have one in their junk pile.

Keep looking for replacement motor with adapter.


Salim

 

I'd try a local RC shop, they might have a brass collar gear that is close in shape to your broken one. If no luck, like salimshah said above, epoxy it to the shaft.

Don't know for sure but these might work...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Collar...1834cc&vxp=mtr

 

Hey guys, I need some help.
i closed the door without the lock actuator. I ordered the wrong motor so i temporary put the lock on without the lock actuator so i can close the door and drive the car. Now i can't get it to open. I can't open the door from inside or outside. I can't manually unlock the lock from the door handle since its not hooked up to the actuator. How do I open the door? My door panel is removed so i can reach my hand in there. What button do i push? A picture would help greatly. thanks

 

Maybe it is too late in the night for me, as I cant totally understand what you are saying. ...
So you put back the latch assembly without the motor in it. Right?
You should still have the 2 cables hooked up to the latch assembly. Right (one of the cable should activate/release the lock with pull or push action and the other should release the door with pull action against the sleeve.
Did you hook the links up? The rods and the plastic locks that connect to the exterior door release handle [and key lock (fronts only). If you did then you should be able to operate the door release/lock from outside.

If you do not have the rods locked in, do not operate the window. Also disconnect the battery while trying to attach the rods to the external lock ,,, one of the door lock position is to roll up the windows.

Salim

 

i didn't hook the lock cable so i had to reach my hand in to unlock the door. I got it open. phewww. Thanks Salim. I checked the cable and followed it to the locks.

 

Can someone please elaborate (perhaps by circling on a picture what is being described) when in step 10 of the first post it is written 'Remove the bolts keeping the window frame arm in place.'

 

If I recall it correctly it is the glass-track. You can leave it alone or decide to remove the screw/bolt to allow you to move the track to give you more room to move the the lock.

In any case it is pretty intuitive.

Salim

 

Just did my right rear door. A few comments. The rear doors do not have the 'rods' that are shown in step # 11 of the first post. Rather, there is a u-shaped saddle that straddles a protruding rod on the actuator assembly. See post # 25. Also, it is not necessary (and I suspect not possible) to remove the window frame rail as discussed in step # 11. It requires some fiddling, but it is possible to remove the actuator with the window frame rail in place.

 

Just finished the passenger door. Took my time and rested several times but got it done and everything works.

I used a C-Clamp to press on the gear for the new motor. The C-Clamp had a hole in the end which not support the shaft at the rear of the new motor. Afterwards, I noticed there was more play front to back, so used another motor. Don't know if that extra play would present problems, but did want to take a chance. Thanks to everyone who contributed their comments this post. They were a tremendous help.