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The nylon piece is also the pivot. Put your index finger on the open (mouth) of the u clip. Gently push the u clip of the rod. Once the U portion moves off, you can lift the rod out of the pivot hole. Do not attempt to remove the nylon from the pivot hole.
During installation, spin the nylon so that the u clip can receive the rod. Place the rod in the hole and with your index finger snap the clip on to the rod. This time the index finger should on the close end of the u clip.
Sure, The motors I purchased are spinning in the other direction. I found the motors using RX300 and year but didn't specify the type of motor mentioned at the beginning of this thread: Mabuchi FC280PC-22125. I received and installed FC280SC-20150. After applying 12 V to the original I verified that they spin in opposite directions so the actuator locks when the car signals unlock, and also unlocks when the car signals lock. I just ordered the correct ones and I will receive them in three days. Now I have expertise removing the actuator and I can do it relatively fast. will reply in one week with the results, and check the model of the electric motor you installed.
I apparently received the wrong motors as well. Any reason why the wires cannot be reversed as opposed to getting the correct motors?
Also, I could not see a way to get the actuator out of the rear doors... Didn't want to bend the track.
I successfully replaced the lock actuators on both rear doors recently thanks to this excellent post.
After replacing the driver's side rear door lock actuator and checking to see that it functioned correctly, I closed the door. When I went to open the door I found I could not open it from the inside or outside when the door was unlocked (I tried in locked position too in case you were wondering). HORROR!
I now have a door I can't open so I can't get the door panel off to investigate what I messed up!
Any suggestions on what I did or how to get the door open?
I successfully replaced the lock actuators on both rear doors recently thanks to this excellent post.
After replacing the driver's side rear door lock actuator and checking to see that it functioned correctly, I closed the door. When I went to open the door I found I could not open it from the inside or outside when the door was unlocked (I tried in locked position too in case you were wondering). HORROR!
I now have a door I can't open so I can't get the door panel off to investigate what I messed up!
Any suggestions on what I did or how to get the door open?
Sorry, it is like beating a dead horse, but for door lock, we recommend to drive a day or two without buttoning up the door panel.
I would suggest remove the trim for the door release mechanism and see if you can grab and pull the cables.
Thanks salimshah. It turns out the issue with the door wasn't the cables but a combination of 1) the child lock was "on" so the inside door handle wouldn't work even though functioning correctly and 2) the outside door handle was not connected to the mechanism (which includes the lock actuator).
I was able to remove the rear door panel with the door closed by sacrificing the pop pins, removing some plastic parts around the door and removing the back seat. I would not recommend spending your Sunday doing this however.
Also, remember the back doors have a screw at the back that must come off.
The front door instructions are very good, but remember to reattach this "U" shaped plastic part to your outside door handle, or you may find yourself in the unenviable position of having a closed door and no way of opening it.
Thanks all for adding your thoughts and experience to this post. It's saved me about $1,100 so far.
The Haynes manual says it's very important to disable the SRS (side airbags) when working inside the front doors. That involves disconnecting the battery, which would make it difficult to test any power lock/window fixes. I didn't see any mention in this thread about disabling the SRS. Are people unaware of this issue, or do they just like to live dangerously, or is it not really a big deal? Or do I just not know about some other obvious thing to do to make it safe, and no one on this thread mentioned it because it's so obvious?
Looking forward to fixing some door locks, but not looking forward to an airbag in the face.
The Haynes manual says it's very important to disable the SRS (side airbags) when working inside the front doors. That involves disconnecting the battery, which would make it difficult to test any power lock/window fixes. I didn't see any mention in this thread about disabling the SRS. Are people unaware of this issue, or do they just like to live dangerously, or is it not really a big deal? Or do I just not know about some other obvious thing to do to make it safe, and no one on this thread mentioned it because it's so obvious?
Looking forward to fixing some door locks, but not looking forward to an airbag in the face.
You should disconnect the battery.
The locks operate the windows too (lock and hold)
Once you get to test the equipment, proper care must be taken. Like one should not go about testing the ohmage on wires that can be going to the air bag. Also keep clear of the potentially explodable bag.
Incidentally there are no air bags in the door for first gen rx.
Thanks salimshah. It turns out the issue with the door wasn't the cables but a combination of 1) the child lock was "on" so the inside door handle wouldn't work even though functioning correctly and 2) the outside door handle was not connected to the mechanism (which includes the lock actuator).
I was able to remove the rear door panel with the door closed by sacrificing the pop pins, removing some plastic parts around the door and removing the back seat. I would not recommend spending your Sunday doing this however.
Also, remember the back doors have a screw at the back that must come off.
The front door instructions are very good, but remember to reattach this "U" shaped plastic part to your outside door handle, or you may find yourself in the unenviable position of having a closed door and no way of opening it.
Thanks all for adding your thoughts and experience to this post. It's saved me about $1,100 so far.
OOPS!! I just did the same thing. I managed to get the panel off by removing the rubber surround and pulling out the push-pins with a needle nose. Only one gave its life for the cause.
Still having an issue getting the motor out though. Someone said there were three bolts for that window track but so far I only see two.
Got everything done. Had to reverse the wires on my motors since I got the wrong ones. With the inside lock button all is good. Lock/unlock no problems. But when I try to use the key to lock/unlock, Nothing. It doesn't even try.
It really doesn't make sense to me that reversing the wires could cause this. Any ideas?
BTW, we bought the car with a non-working fob and they told us it could not be programmed until the door locks were fixed. Up until now, with the broken lock motors, it was working fine to lock/unlock manually.
Last edited by marksm; 06-07-15 at 03:55 PM.
Reason: added more info
It has been while for me, but the key has two mechanisms... rod (mechanical) and wire connections (electronic). Lets leave the electronics out of the discussion (hopefully the battery is disconnected.
See if the rod moves with the key.
Disconnect the plastic lock and see if the key can move the rod. If it can then you have to take the actuator out and see why the rod can not operate it.
Do remember that leave the panel off for a couple of days, even if everything is working.
When you say key, do you mean remote or physical twist action of the key in the lock cylinder?
Salim
Physically using the key in the door.
It locks but when I turn to unlock it doesn't do anything.
Inside the car, using the lock switch, they lock/unlock with that satisfying clunk.
That being said, if you try to manually unlock a door from the inside the little lever is very hard to operate. Like it's binding something. That may be related with the unlock issues the physical key is having.
It locks but when I turn to unlock it doesn't do anything.
Inside the car, using the lock switch, they lock/unlock with that satisfying clunk.
That being said, if you try to manually unlock a door from the inside the little lever is very hard to operate. Like it's binding something. That may be related with the unlock issues the physical key is having.
You got it. It may require you to take the actuator out and see what is going on. As you know there are independent locking and unlocking mechanisms (electronic, inside door mechanical, outside door mechanical). The door lock actuator is pretty amazing mechanism. Lot of safety and fail-safe independent ways to operate the beast. No wonder it costs a whole lot to replace.
12-15-14, 04:42 PM
