VSC Trac and CheckEngine lights
I am a dedicated DIY'er and just installed an AUX IN audio in in my wife's
2001 RX300. Unfortunately, while I was in there I seem to have broken
something

BTW, the AUX IN is from instructions from this forum, and it works great!
Question: Anyone know if RX300 error codes are posted on the net anywhere?
I don't know if there are any codes yet but have ordered a ScanGauge to find
out...
Question: Anyone else had this problem? Specifically I found some posts about a "zero calibration" might be needed. My C5 Corvette active handling
has something like this where you have to drive a straight line for a few miles
or some time so it knows what steering angle is straight ahead..
Question: Is there anyway to clear all codes without a scan tool? I tried
disconnecting the battery for awhile, didn't seem to help. Of course my lights
only come on after I move the car so maybe they cleared but there really is
something still wrong.
Gary
Dublin, CA
Welcome to the forum.
Get the codes read by autozone and post them here. Some one will decode them for you [such a helpful board].
The audio is pretty much dedicated and should not have given you a problem unless some thing else got disconnected.
All that is needed is
1. Pop up the wood "U".
2. Remove screws/bolt holding the head unit.
Salim
I am a dedicated DIY'er and just installed an AUX IN audio in in my wife's
2001 RX300. Unfortunately, while I was in there I seem to have broken
something

BTW, the AUX IN is from instructions from this forum, and it works great!
Question: Anyone know if RX300 error codes are posted on the net anywhere?
I don't know if there are any codes yet but have ordered a ScanGauge to find
out...
Question: Anyone else had this problem? Specifically I found some posts about a "zero calibration" might be needed. My C5 Corvette active handling
has something like this where you have to drive a straight line for a few miles
or some time so it knows what steering angle is straight ahead..
Question: Is there anyway to clear all codes without a scan tool? I tried
disconnecting the battery for awhile, didn't seem to help. Of course my lights
only come on after I move the car so maybe they cleared but there really is
something still wrong.
Gary
Dublin, CA
With the codes, if you type something in like P0171 on the net, it will show up what it is. What we generally do here is just post the code and I or someone else will go over it with regard to the RX300.
As far as clearing out codes with out a scan tool...you hit number one which is to disconnect the battery. Number 2 is pulling the EFI fuse for a few seconds(do this with the vehicle off and key out of the ignition) in the engine bay (see photo below) and then put it back in.
However, as you said correctly, if something is indeed wrong it will come back on as opposed to a temporary sensor reading (climate) causing the issue.
I wish we had that calibration thing you mentioned like you the Vette, but unfortunately does not exist.
Well, what I think I did was power up the ABS/Trac ECU when the TracOff
switch in the dash was UNplugged. It probably ran its diags and figured
there was a loose connection to the switch.. this being a possible safety
problem (what with Trac turning on and off as a user is driving) it set a code.
My understanding is that OBD-II has non-volatile memory so the old pull-fuse
trick will not always clear the codes... I think (hope) that you need a scan tool
to clear them.
All work was confined to the dash area and I took it out again (I am getting
much faster now) to make sure everything is plugged back and nothing looks
pinched or damaged.
Now, I probably should not have been working back there with everything
"hot" but I couldn't figure out how to get the shifter out of the way without
turning the key on and stepping on the brake, and then you can't turn it off
while its not in Park...
Gary
Last edited by mikey00; Jan 16, 2007 at 07:30 AM. Reason: correction
Trending Topics
Well, what I think I did was power up the ABS/Trac ECU when the TracOff
switch in the dash was UNplugged. It probably ran its diags and figured
there was a loose connection to the switch.. this being a possible safety
problem (what with Trac turning on and off as a user is driving) it set a code.
My understanding is that OBD-II has non-volatile memory so the old pull-fuse
trick will not always clear the codes... I think (hope) that you need a scan tool
to clear them.
All work was confined to the dash area and I took it out again (I am getting
much faster now) to make sure everything is plugged back and nothing looks
pinched or damaged.
Now, I probably should not have been working back there with everything
"hot" but I couldn't figure out how to get the shifter out of the way without
turning the key on and stepping on the brake, and then you can't turn it off
while its not in Park...
Gary
You hit an important point on the codes and mikey00 touched on it.
What I have been doing (largely due to track use) is every Friday and Saturday night before I head out, I pull both the EFI fuse and also the battery cables and I wait about 15 minutes or so (have been experimenting and use to do 30 minutes). Then after watching TV or being on CL, come back down stairs and reconnect everything. By doing that, I am hoping that any juice left in any capacitors is gone and will reset the adaptive driving pattern system we have in our ECMs.
Then I just drive normally to the track (as I have mentioned on my homepage link below).
Now this is key, what this incidentally would do in the case of CEL is reset any parameters in the system. If one just pulls the EFI fuse, having the battery still attached may leave some of those parameters present. I have pulled the EFI fuse in a few cases and noticed practically no changes in the adaptive driving patterns, even though it would reset a CEL. However, pulling both battery cables...that pulled the weed out of the grass so to speak.
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Eric
Eric
I've been doing some more web searching and according to a Toyota site,
the VSC and CEL lights come on for almost ANY problem, that agrees with
what you are saying. I got to believe that in my case something ELSE did not
just coincidently fail at the same time.. I sure hope I can clear it with the scan
tool and that it does not come back..
I am still listening for any more ideas too, thanks guys.
BTW, my wife IS happy with the direct connections for the Sirius and
her iPod, so at least something good is happening!
Gary
Last edited by RX300Gary; Jan 17, 2007 at 07:18 AM. Reason: forgot something
I've been doing some more web searching and according to a Toyota site,
the VSC and CEL lights come on for almost ANY problem, that agrees with
what you are saying. I got to believe that in my case something ELSE did not
just coincidently fail at the same time.. I sure hope I can clear it with the scan
tool and that it does not come back..
I am still listening for any more ideas too, thanks guys.
BTW, my wife IS happy with the direct connections for the Sirius and
her iPod, so at least something good is happening!
Gary
Checking the code revealed "Vapor system error" I had actual reading device and do not rmember the number. I have found out two things:
Loos gas cap cause this error and you can reset the code or ingnore it and they will go away in 3-4 days or driving.
You also need to know the it may indicate vapor carbon fllter need change, if you or previous owner had a tendency to "top off" when filling gas tank.
I was also told by local dealer that Toyota vapor systems are guaranteed to 150Kmi and 10 years against the failure (damage excluded), so repeated "vapor system error" may cause trip to dealership which should be free of charge.
I hope it helps
over there but I found I had codes P1135 and P1155, both banks A/F (ox)
sensor heaters. I reset the codes and they came back. I fiddled with the
fuse, relay and bank 2 sensor and found NOTHING wrong with any of it.
Reset the codes one more time and now the lights are staying off and no
codes are coming up. BTW, I tried pulling the fuses, disconnecting the battery
and driving it for a week and none of that helped.
I've got no theories on what was wrong now except that Toyota error reporting
is probably really sub-standard (I did find many web sites that say that P1135
comes up and can mean anything from a loose gas cap, low brake fluid, bad
ox sensor, to a bad MAF)..
I am glad I didn't buy new sensors, they are more than $200ea or take it to the
dealer..
Gary









