I've replaced the discs and pads ont he front of my wife's 1999 AWD RX300. The job was very simple and straight forward.

Questions:

1. are the rear brakes any different from the front? Is it the same job?
2. any concideration to the parking brake?
3. any source of aftermarket discs? or stick with OEM?
4. with minimal wear the disc, should I just replace the pads?

Thanks in advance!
Sully

 

Good, I have the same vehicle, a 99 RX AWD.

Answers:

1) Yes, they are a different size. I think the Highlander and the RX share the same type of rear brakes, but not the fronts.

2) Don't worry about the parking brake

3) I have used Hawk Performance and EBC brakes on both the fronts and backs. I did this because the old Lexus brakes, circa 2002, were awful at stopping power on the hills and in the bad traffic I have here. Hawk's were much harder, but had a lot of stopping power. EBCs were good, but they have a short life and a lot of brake dust. Bottom line, the new RX300 brakes, they are in a blue color, are fantastic and now comprise all of the qualities I was originally looking for.

4. with minimal wear the disc, should I just replace the pads?
Don't understand the question.

 

1. I realized the front and rear were different, just wondering if the procedure is the same.

4. On my 9000 saab Brembo discs are ~ $30 w/ free shipping. So if I go through the trouble of taking the caliper off for new pads, it's a no brainer to just replace the disc too. I've found disc for the RX ~ $80 online, without shipping. The rear disc doesn't have much wear at all. It does have very minimal grooves, similar to a record. So I will just replace pads only.

Thanks for your reply.

 

It is the same procedure regarding front and back.

Regarding the discs, I would not really worry about that either. My RX probably encounters way more crazy things than most RXs in the world given where I live (though I do know someone who treks through the jungles of Guyana in one ) I have had no problems with the discs thus far.

 

And do you really need to take of the caliper and rotor to do a brake job on these? The pads don't just drop down into the caliper without unbolting it? What a pain in the butt!!

George

 

I will be doing them tomorrow and can post anything that is differnet from the fronts:

Front brake pad replacement DIY:
Disclaimer: Working on a jacked-up vehicle is dangerous and if proper care is not exercised it can lead to serious injury and even death.

Disclaimer: If brakes or any of its components are not installed properly, you will loose proper control of the vehicle resulting in serious accident.

1. Remove front wheel after ensuring the RX is properly supported. install one of the lug nuts on to the lug bolt, to ensure the rotor does not fall off once the caliper is moved out.
2. With a turkey baster (or equivalent) suck out brake fluid from the master cylender reservoir. (keep the level just below 1/2) Do NOT empty it as you will introduce air in the system. Brake fluid can ruin paint finish and should never be re-used and should be disposed properly.
3. Caliper is held in place by two long sliding pins ... pins/bolts that have rubber boot on them roughly 1/2" away from the head of the pin (inner side of the wheel). Identify the top and the bottom pin.
4. You will need an open end spanner/wrench to hold the bottom pin (hexagon head) close to the rubber boot. Use preferrably box wrench on the head of the bottom pin to loosen it. [Position the wrenches so that you can squeeze them with one hand ... large hands help].
5. Remove the bottom pin and swing the caliper up. Note the top pin act as the pivot.
6. Use a string or a wire to hang the caliper assembly from the suspension so that the caliper is out of the way.
[Note: Do not remove the hydraulic line or the top pin].
7. Pull the pads out (away from the rotor), while taking note of the various clips.
8. Use the spray to clean the brake assebly.
9. Remove the shims/plates that prevent squeeling from the back of the old pads.
10. Use the High Temp brake grease to coat the shims (all surfaces ... front and back). Ensure that grease does not get on the pads braking surface and the rotor. Instal the shims/plates on the new pads.
12. Use the back of the screw driver, or the wood handle of a hammer to push back the piston in the caliper. The brake fuild will travel back up into the master cylender reservoir (you created room for it in step 2). If you have the right size C clamp, you can use that instead. Keep an eye on the brake fuild level and if gets too high, pump some out with the turkey baster.
13. Pop in the new pads and confirm all clips are there.
14. Un-hook the cliper and swing it in place. If the piston hits the pad, the piston needs to be pushed in some more. [exercise care as the pad edge can damage the rubber boot around the piston]
15.Put the sliding pin back. Use the open end wrench to hold the pin and tighten the head. Reverse step 4.
16. Reverse step 1.
17. Start the RX and pump the brake several times to push the piston out to its normal position. Keep an eye on the brake reservoir as it will drop. Ensure it remains at least 1/2 full or slightly more to prevent introducing air in the system. KEEP TRANSMISSION IN PARK TILL YOU FEEL THE BRAKE PEDAL IS NORMAL.


General notes:
If there is wear on components, or the boots are ripped then they should be replaced.
Grease packet has enough grease for both front wheels.
Only ONE pin is loosend and removed in the whole process.

 

There are more errors in that write up than anything. I just replaced my front rotors, pads, rear pads. Cleaned and adusted the emergency brake shoes. I used only Toyota parts. Toyota changed the design of the pads awhile back. It stops on a dime. It is very important to set the pads to the rotors when you first drive it.

 

Regarding step 12, I'm told that's not good for ABS systems.

My method is to open the bleeder valve and push the old fluid out rather than up. Then refill the reservoir when finished (or after each wheel). Either way you'll have a small amount of brake fluid to dispose of.

George

 

You dont need open anything up. Just remove the cap from the reservoir. Push the caliper in slowly. It is not bad for the abs system. You should not ever have to add brake fluid to the reservoir for the life of the car. Thats if you dont have any leaks.

 

Toyo,

You are definitely right about the pads changing design. They are much, much better than the one's they had back in 2002 or so. They just don't seem to wear down as much.

 

How do you adjust the Emergency brake peddle? It isn't catching until the bottom and it's very weak.
]

 

I think that is wrong, wrong, wrong! Brake fluid is not forever. You really do need to flush it periodically and a little fresh at the top is much better than pressing the junk from the bottom up through the system. Did you ever look at the color of the the first couple of squirts when bleeding brakes? Yuk!!

George

 

I guess i should have been more clear. I didnt mean to say I was against flushing brake fluid. I was saying you should not have to add brake fluid when you are changing pads. He made no mention of doing a flush.

 

True,

You normally do not need to add brake fluid when you changed pads. I change my fluid every year in my RX. I use a Valvoline Powersyn synthetic brake fluid. I highly recommend this over Toyota's fluid.

 

After you pull off the rear disc, you will see the shoes for the emergency brake. At the bottom you will see a litle adjusting wheel. Turn the wheel about 3/4 turn. You want to get it at the point to where you canstill put the disc on pretty easy. P.s Dont forget to release the emergency brake first!