Depends how you're driving it. If you are giving it moderate throttle, it drives pretty much like factory. If you give it heavy throttle it starts holding gears longer. If you stand on it, it will only shift at redline, which is now 7200.

I've had this tune on my car now for about a year and really enjoy it, I can't imagine going back to standard. It's not really that much more total power on a dyno (at least on a 350) but the way is responds is so much better now.

 

Your cars stock red line is ~6800RPM....Dose your car only up shift at 6800RPM in auto? No.... However the tune has glitched out a few handful of times during WOT that required me to pull the paddle to up shift even in auto IME. Only happened once under a blue moon so it's not a big deal for me at least.

 

I have had the tune for 40k miles( installed at 60k and now i am at 100k) on my 15 IS350 AWD. Tune is worth it paired with an exhaust (min Catback to get the value of the tune). No issues what so ever (besides the 7200 blimp in auto. Never had CEL.

I thought about getting headers and switching out my Apexi Midpipe for an ARK(since all catless exhaust have pretty bad rasp) but what I have heard from some long time ARK exhaust owners is that with headers the cats in the mid pipe overtime cause the honey comb filter to become loose due to the force of air. For spending $1700+ on a catback exhaust + $1000 PPE headers + 500$ labor I find that a hard pill to swallow.

I also debated on getting Hi Flow cats on with the headers but that defeats the purpose of freeing air flow. Can't go full exhaust without the rasp in these cars unless cats are in place somewhere.

 

I'm really glad you said that, I was thinking of the ARK exhaust too. Any idea how the ARK works with standard headers? I don't really want a ton of noise, but I also yeah don't want to spend all that to have to replace cats often. Maybe I'll just get the TRD axleback instead.

 

 

Sorry I should have called out the specific part of the reply. I mean:

That's what I'd like to avoid.

 

It would be a non issue with the stock headers(Exhaust manifold).

 

Ark with headers sounds the best IMO. Least amount of rasp and plenty loud. If you don't want loud stick with a catback

 

New to the club, I posted this question on another thread this morning and another thread a minute ago. I just added the RR tune and intake to my 2016 IS300 AWD, it has really awoken the car and worth every penny. However, the paddles will not upshift if in wide open throttle (WOT) I have shifted as early as 5,000 RPM and the gear number will change on the dash but the transmission does not shift and tack proceeds to 7200 until I let up so it can shift. I can upshift with the stick but curious has anyone else had this issue? If there is a tune for the transmission I am game, this is the only issue I have had and the car is a joy to drive now.

 

If this was on the very first drive after the tune, there's a break in period (described in the manual). Even for like another day after that mine drove a little weird. Since then though (Nov 2019) it's been great. If I can get away later, I'll take a lap around the highway and test the specific case you're asking about to double check, but I don't think it does that.

 

Thanks to everyone for the great information! 👍🏼👍🏼

What is the new top speed of a 3rd generation IS 300 AWD after an RR ECU Tune without full exhaust and their carbon fiber intake tube?
Just the tune alone...?

Thanks 👌🏼

 

great looking car . I don't think the tune changes the top speed from stock, there's still the same limiter on there.

 

Hey thanks scriminal! 😁😁 I do love the jet black look of Obsidian on mine over the newer Caviar black that has some metal flake in it.

On RR’s site for the ECU Tune, the last bullet point says “Raises speed limit” I figured that meant Increases Too Speed and I have heard it mentioned. mkane got to 153 in a video 👍🏼👍🏼

 

Well then nevermind, I stand corrected

 

👍🏼👍🏼 I’m still learning about it myself, thanks!