Takeda Intake Install - two hours later
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Takeda Intake Install - two hours later
There are several threads about this intake already, but I thought I'd share my experience. After reading and soliciting advice from other CL members, I decided on the Takeda Dry intake. I scoured the forum yesterday to make sure I was prepared for the install, which I completed last night. While I consider myself a handy guy, I don't generally tackle automotive upgrades/repairs. I was pretty confident based on numerous posts that suggested this was a 20 minute DIY job. For me, it was a bit longer...
After two hours I finally got everything installed and looking pretty. The only issue at this point is the stock breather hose doesn't want to stay. I may need to pick up a new clamp from a box store. Length isn't a problem, but the bend is different, and the hose is kind of rigid, so it likes to slide off.
Here are my suggestions/difficulties I encountered:
An extension for your socket wrench is a necessity. Getting to the bottom screw that holds in the lower intake base is impossible without an 8 or 10 " extension. Luckily I had a couple smaller ones that worked just fine back to back.
The instructions I had were a little hard to decipher. I ended up putting the gasket in the heat shield backwards...and not realizing until it came time to mount the aluminum tube. No biggie, but took me extra time to take out the screws and redo.
Two main issues: First, the aforementioned stock breather hose. I finally got it to stay by using sandpaper and roughing up the outside of the tube where it connects. The metal was just so slick, the rubber tube didn't want to stay. It's still on this morning so fingers crossed. I may get a clamp anyway...
The other problem I encountered was the heat shield was blocked by an electrical connector box (not sure what it is). I read others zip-tied theirs in, but I wanted a more permanent solution. I made a cardboard template to drill a hole through the heat shield. The template helped me get the hole drilled in the right spot. The original screw for the electrical box was too short, so I used one of the long screws that held the intake box. After a bit of adjusting to get the air scoop to fit, everything looked great.
I also zip tied the wiring for the MAF sensor. There was some kind of clip attaching it to the old intake box that had no where to reattach. Zipped it to a neighboring wire, which you can just barely see in the picture below.
After reconnecting the battery the car didn't start the first time. On second attempt, she fired right up. I had to recalibrate the windows, for the auto up/down function. And reset the clock.
End result: AWESOME! I wanted to hear the growl when getting on the throttle, but not impact the quiet luxury of a cruise with the Mrs. The install was last night, so I'm looking forward to more spirited driving today. But my first cruise in the dark was really fun. And I will be checking that pesky breather hose. Intake with silver engine cover removed so I can watch that hose!
After two hours I finally got everything installed and looking pretty. The only issue at this point is the stock breather hose doesn't want to stay. I may need to pick up a new clamp from a box store. Length isn't a problem, but the bend is different, and the hose is kind of rigid, so it likes to slide off.
Here are my suggestions/difficulties I encountered:
An extension for your socket wrench is a necessity. Getting to the bottom screw that holds in the lower intake base is impossible without an 8 or 10 " extension. Luckily I had a couple smaller ones that worked just fine back to back.
The instructions I had were a little hard to decipher. I ended up putting the gasket in the heat shield backwards...and not realizing until it came time to mount the aluminum tube. No biggie, but took me extra time to take out the screws and redo.
Two main issues: First, the aforementioned stock breather hose. I finally got it to stay by using sandpaper and roughing up the outside of the tube where it connects. The metal was just so slick, the rubber tube didn't want to stay. It's still on this morning so fingers crossed. I may get a clamp anyway...
The other problem I encountered was the heat shield was blocked by an electrical connector box (not sure what it is). I read others zip-tied theirs in, but I wanted a more permanent solution. I made a cardboard template to drill a hole through the heat shield. The template helped me get the hole drilled in the right spot. The original screw for the electrical box was too short, so I used one of the long screws that held the intake box. After a bit of adjusting to get the air scoop to fit, everything looked great.
I also zip tied the wiring for the MAF sensor. There was some kind of clip attaching it to the old intake box that had no where to reattach. Zipped it to a neighboring wire, which you can just barely see in the picture below.
After reconnecting the battery the car didn't start the first time. On second attempt, she fired right up. I had to recalibrate the windows, for the auto up/down function. And reset the clock.
End result: AWESOME! I wanted to hear the growl when getting on the throttle, but not impact the quiet luxury of a cruise with the Mrs. The install was last night, so I'm looking forward to more spirited driving today. But my first cruise in the dark was really fun. And I will be checking that pesky breather hose. Intake with silver engine cover removed so I can watch that hose!
#2
Pole Position
nice job. looks good. what took 2 hours? that seems a bit much.
i thoroughly washed my intake tube and oem box and drilled holes into my oem box, and it took less than that.
i thoroughly washed my intake tube and oem box and drilled holes into my oem box, and it took less than that.
#3
My "takeda" logo was installed upside down. Lol. I used self tapping screws for that box and screwed it to the body. Also had the issue with the breather hose . Went to auto zone and bought a screw type connector. If you see your VSC light on than the hose has more than likely come undone.
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
And I did get a screw type hose clamp...I just didn't want to worry about the OEM clamp not holding tight.
#5
Pole Position
any part that had an OEM clamp, i have replaced with a hose clamp with a screw tightener. there isnt much pressure, but its just more comforting that its tight and looks clean
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