2006 IS250 LS1 Swap
When I first got the engine I had every intention of swapping it into an IS300. I saw what ATSMATT did and I was blown away. It was an awesome swap and about the cleanest install possible. However, over the year that I was rebuilding the engine, the second gen IS's were dropping in price and the more I looked the more I liked the second gen design over the first (even though I think the IS300 is an awesome car). I finally found a pretty good deal on a 2006 Glacier Frost Mica IS250 and I bought it. It ran fine so it was a shame to tear it apart but I had to stick with the plan.
I'll definitely have some IS questions along the way so I'm glad I can rely on the Club Lexus community fro help. I hope you enjoy the build thread.
Mentally preparing for the swap

Engine covers removed

Bumper and headlights removed

That was enough damage for night 1.
Day 2 focused on electrical diagnostics. I am trying to keep as many features working as possible which I don't think will be easy. I purchased the electrical wiring diagram manual for the car which has already proven to be a huge help.
I removed the entire dash and center console. I knew I would need access everywhere so I figured why not knock it out in 1 night instead of removing it piece by piece throughout the project.

I was able to diagnose most of the electrical circuits on my list. My only failure to date is that I have not been successful at activating the electric power steering (eps) without the engine running. The eps ecu only has 5 inputs; power, ground, ignition, and 2 inputs from the can bus. The can bus inputs read roughly 2.5V each when the engine is running but since it's most likely a digital signal I'm not quite sure how I would replicate the signal.
At this point I'm thinking about replacing eps with a hydraulic setup for several reasons. First I already have the power steering pump on the LS1, second I have heard about some problems with the IS eps so now would be the best time to mitigate the risk, and lastly I can probably sell my working setup for significantly more than the cost of a new hydraulic rack. I'll resolve this a little later but if there are any eps experts out there please drop me a line.
To finish off this somewhat boring entry I'll leave you with a little eye candy
Last edited by Thumper28; Sep 5, 2019 at 12:29 PM.
Day 4 and 5 were awesome. My buddy Jesse came over and we tore into the engine. On day 4 we drained the fluids, removed the front cross members, removed the radiator, and detached pretty much every connection to the engine. We had call it quits for the night because the manifold bolts were seized up and I was out of PB Blaster and butane for my torch.
Here's how the engine looked after day 4

DAY 5 - ENGINE REMOVAL
After breaking the exhaust manifolds from the rest of the exhaust and detaching the fuel system, we decided to remove the intake manifold in order to buy us some more clearance when we pulled the engine.

We then supported the transmission, removed the transmission cross member, removed the lower engine mount nuts and after a quick spot check we started lifting out the engine. With a little shaking and bumping the engine lifted out pretty easily.

Here's the last pic of the night, It's a big engine bay, almost looks like I can fit two LS1s in there.
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Are you planning to retain interior functionality as well or strip the interior and go full track car?
Last edited by JDKane527; Jan 9, 2013 at 09:15 AM.
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Will you be undertaking any major wiring to keep comfort accessory features working or just using the car to DRIVE with no frills?











