Dyno Tuning
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 67
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From: Texas
Dyno Tuning
I am hoping to dyno tune my gs4 as to squeeze all the power out of the headers, exhaust and intake but i have been searching CL for awhile now on this subject and i cant get a clear cut answer. People say that the ECU can not be reprogrammed or can only be done temporarily because it relearns itself or goes back to factory settings? Others say that its worked for them. Can someone please give me a clear cut answer as to whether our cars can or can not be tuned or if we need a piggy back or standalone to make this possible. Thank you.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
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From: IA
Get an SRT intake and use an SAFC to tune the air/fuel ratio on the dyno. The tuner will be able to find the best AFR for power there. But get the intake first, since it will add quite a bit of power.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
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From: IA
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Hate to say it, but it looks like the only reason the more recent dyno made more power may be because you revved it higher. Torque only increased by 1lb/ft.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp
But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.
Of course, some exceptions do apply.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp
But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.Of course, some exceptions do apply.
Huh??? This is just completely untrue.
There are piggybacks that can control ignition timing, injector pulsewidth, fuel pump control, nos control, launch control, boost control, 02 skewing, fuel type detection/map switching, data logging, etc, etc...
There are piggybacks that can control ignition timing, injector pulsewidth, fuel pump control, nos control, launch control, boost control, 02 skewing, fuel type detection/map switching, data logging, etc, etc...
Driver
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 165
Likes: 23
From: IN
Hate to say it, but it looks like the only reason the more recent dyno made more power may be because you revved it higher. Torque only increased by 1lb/ft.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.
Of course, some exceptions do apply.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp
But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.Of course, some exceptions do apply.
And 99 GS3 is right. Importantly, the o2 does function can prevent the ecu from relearning per the OP concerns.
Hate to say it, but it looks like the only reason the more recent dyno made more power may be because you revved it higher. Torque only increased by 1lb/ft.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.
Of course, some exceptions do apply.
Simply reflashing or throwing piggybacks on an otherwise stock car isn't going to get you much gain unless the car came with forced induction from the factory. With a turbo you can usually squeeze an appreciable amount of additional power out by helping it breathe more, turning up the boost 1 or 2 lbs and tuning less conservatively than the factory.
With a N/A car there doesn't tend to be tons of power left on the table by the factory.
My Miata makes around 110whp bone stock on a Dynojet. With a full intake, header, exhaust (with a factory cat) and a majorly built head and intake manifold running a full stand-alone it made 140whp. That's only 30 more hp for about $5,500 in mods.
Granted...all that has been done in preparation for a turbo which will make the number closer to 300whp
But I digress. The point is that "tuning" a naturally aspirated car on the dyno is only worthwhile if you have done a ton of work to the motor. And even then you can't expect easy gains like you would with a boosted car.Of course, some exceptions do apply.
With my stock whhels on, the car made 282whp and 306wtq. All my mods are in my sig. I leave a 20' streach off the line with my 275's on; the car has good power for being NA with some bolt-ons. Fyi, I remember the tuner said he will only tune the car for more power at WOT. He mentioned everything else would be a waste as the ecu overtime will override the part throttle adjustments.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 2
From: BC
With my BFI, and full header back exhaust I gained 35whp (assuming Durrby's stock SC numbers are the same as mine). I've been looking at getting a supporting but conservative tune and was hoping for 20-30whp more. Perhaps even a manual swap down the road which should release even more hp.
Durrby- did you run the car a couple hundred miles after install before going back to the dyno? We just installed the SRT intake and it made substantial gains on my car. I notice your A/F is the same before and after, on my car the SRT ECU leaned it out quite a bit.
With my BFI, and full header back exhaust I gained 35whp (assuming Durrby's stock SC numbers are the same as mine). I've been looking at getting a supporting but conservative tune and was hoping for 20-30whp more. Perhaps even a manual swap down the road which should release even more hp.
Yes, the intake was installed almost a year to the day when it was redynoed.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 2
From: BC
Not unless I removed the engine to get those numbers. Dynos are at the wheels. Mine is still auto so I think that 'flywheel horesepower' is just how they label their dyno sheet?
