Here is what I did over the weekend!
First the exhaust. The welds look kinda rough, but they are being cleaned up today. Last one is of my buddy Chris who is doing the welding for me.

 

I had a leak coming from the back end of the transmission oil pan so I decided to just drop it and clean it out and reseal it. I found something pretty cool in there! 3 magnets. I noticed a spot for a forth but there were only 3 in there.

Nice clean trans oil pan!!!

 

Here's the GTE throttle cable. Fits perfectly! $80 shipped from driftmotion.com

 

Had this left over and I had no res to use so I improvised!! Its a little crooked but it will work for now until I have money set aside to order a new one for a gs400.

 

Ok so I read a while back on how to do it and which wire it needed to be attached to but I forgot and I cant find the post on it. FML. Looking at the orange plug, which plug is it that it need to be attached to? I know its a black wire with yellow stripe and , I beleive it should be the second slot from the left?? Just need to know which plug. I have more than one black and yellow wire in there. LOL

 

Well Im still waiting on my FMIC to get here. As for everything else, all I have left is to run the fuel return line, and pour in all new fluids..OIL, Trans oil, and coolant. What would some of you recommend to use for trans fluid? Also what oil weight? Coolant, I know has to be the toyota red stuff.

 

FMIC kit is finally here and Im at work....FML Ill take pics tonight and post them up tomorrow!

 

For oil 10w-30 is the norm for the TT engine. For colder climates 5w-30 is recommended.

The transmission uses Toyota Type T4 Fluid. I would not use anything else but this.

The reason the TT A340i uses T4 is because those trans' have flex lockup and "intelligence" control. The "i" means the ECM monitors input and output shaft timing to maintain constant shift speed over its life. The ECM's control calibration is matched to the TIV's fluid's friction coefficient and temperature characteristics. Any Toyota transmission with flex lockup (duty cycles linear solenoid at low speed and load) uses that fluid. Otherwise dexron III is used. The clutches and seals are the same. Using dexron in a TIV trans could cause shift flare, shock or lockup shudder. The Toyota stuff is very high quality (mineral based) and really not that inexpensive. There really isn't a "universal fluid". Using that train of thought would be like saying all spark plugs are the same.

The transmission fluid level is measured with the car running and in neutral. Shift it from 1-2-3-D-R a few times then back to neutral a few times to allow the fluid to travel throughout the valve body.

 

Thank you for the info LexusDog!!!! I want to completely drain out all the old trans fluid since I know there is still a few quarts left in the torque converter. I was thinking of using my air compressor on a low setting to push out all the old fluid. Im still up in the air about that though. What I would really like to know is, how many quarts of transmission fluid does the transmission hold? Thank you!

 

I would not recommend draining the whole trans as it puts way to many detergents into the trans at one time and can loosen up harmful deposits that can damage the trans. What I do is drain just the pan and refill it, usually this is about 2 qt's. I do this at every oil change, that way it slowly puts new detergents into the system. I have heard many horror storys about people doing a full flush and then their trans starts to slip a few days later. I have never had a problem with doing the 2 qts every oil change. When you removed your pan, only about two qts came out of it. Put two qts of T4 toyota red fluid back in and check the level. That should be fine.

 

quick question. im looking to do an aristo swap too soon. whered you buy yours from?

 

Japan Direct Japanese, they are out of Canada. Google them. Ask for "Moe". He will help you out.

 

This is probably the post your looking for, it's from SlvrGS300's build thread, shows it clearly here.

Note it's the third position, which in his picture is the spot where he has removed the pin from in the pic, but that is the sport where you just tap the new igniter feed to, don't cut or disconnect it.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/3504731-post18.html

 

Rough or not, as long as it don't leak or break it's good to go. Pretty is awesome, but I've seen some beautiful beads break. The focus is penetration.

Looks like it was done with no gas or done with C25, switching to Tri-mix makes all the difference in welding stainless.

But like seeing progress being made here, you should pretty close to driving now!!!

 

Yea, Im getting close. I received my FMIC yesterday and was so excited that i took it out of the box at 1am after I got home from work and decided to mock it on to the car. I got the IC into position and the the intake side all mocked up. When I tried to mock up the pipe on the throttle body side it would work. I think they sent me the pipe for a JZS147 or possibly a MK4. I was kinda pissed but, thats what you get when you take a chance with a small name company. Dont get me wrong, the pipe and the IC and all the couplers and clamps are very good. They were packed up very professionally and not just thrown in the box. I just think the put the wrong pipe in on accident. So now Ill have to order a couple pieces of pipe to finish the job. The other thing I noticed is that I am going to have to cut out and trim up some of my front bumper. Was not expecting that. I might have to remove the fog lights. But oh well, I never use them anyways. Now I just need to run the fuel return line and fill up with fluids and she if she will start up!!!!!