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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
Yeah, I read up about that in the IS.net forums a few days ago and I talked to Jason over at JPI today. I'm gonna take the plunge to standalone. Not gonna mickey mouse around with piggybacks. I'm just gonna do it right the first time around. My eventual power goals are gonna be north of 600-700hp or so. No point in buying piggyback now, and rebuying and reinstalling everything again later. That place Dezod Motorsports has the EMS with a Plug N Play harness for $2000. It's a pretty good deal I'd say

Good choice...At the end, with piggyback; buying and selling of it; alot of time and money is lost at the end. Getting the standalone at first will save you alot of headaches and alot of time. I wanted to go piggyback with my setup also, but the car has been down for about 1 1/2 years now, so I don't see how a few more months of time spent saving money for a standalone will hurt.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by ElitistK
Jeff:

What about the rear end? the tranny isn't going to hold up to 600-700rwhp +
Gonna replace with the Supra TT Auto rear end with LSD. There are a ton of supra guys pushing monstrous HP thru their rear ends so 600-700hp isn't a big problem. As for the tranny, one of my friends friend builds racing tranny's for a living. He's gona do a full race rebuild on the tranny including cryo treating all the parts and upgrading all the weaker components. He said he will gaurantee the tranny not to fail. If it does, then I guess I'll have to start saving for the V160 6-speed swap lol
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 07:01 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by bighitbike
Hey jeff did you get my PM?
Yeah, I keep forgetting to post up my list. Anyways, here it is.

$730 - Turbonetics 62-1 Turbo w/ TUFF SHAFT upgrade *Brand new off ebay
$575 - Zeitronix Wideband O2, EGT, Boost Gauge
$295 - SAFC NEO
$210 - ECU Patch harness *From Boomslang Fabrication
$200 - Two Turbo Manifolds + Downpipe + Intake pipe + Dump Tube + 46mm WG * I got it all really cheap so I bought two manifolds incase one cracks.
$120 - Intercooler piping kit * came with 24 T-Bolt clamps and 12 4ply silicone hose couplers. A very good deal!
$175 - XSPOWER Intercooler
$120 - Oil Return/Feed Flanges + AN-10 Fittings + 10-AN SS Hose + 4-AN Feed Line
$100 - Tial 38mm WG *friend's old WG with only 2k miles on it lol
$35 - Tial 5.8PSI Spring
$90 - HKS SSQV BOV *used one from a friend, yes it's a real one not imitation lol
$50 - AEM Dryflow 4"x 9" Air Filter
$30 - Silicone Elbow 90'degree 2.5" to 3"
$20 - Silicone Coupler 4" two pieces

Basically, I got the best deal possible...but still buying all high quality components. You can go cheap, but don't get low quality stuff!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 07:19 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
Yeah, I keep forgetting to post up my list. Anyways, here it is.

$730 - Turbonetics 62-1 Turbo w/ TUFF SHAFT upgrade *Brand new off ebay
$575 - Zeitronix Wideband O2, EGT, Boost Gauge
$295 - SAFC NEO
$210 - ECU Patch harness *From Boomslang Fabrication
$200 - Two Turbo Manifolds + Downpipe + Intake pipe + Dump Tube + 46mm WG * I got it all really cheap so I bought two manifolds incase one cracks.
$120 - Intercooler piping kit * came with 24 T-Bolt clamps and 12 4ply silicone hose couplers. A very good deal!
$175 - XSPOWER Intercooler
$120 - Oil Return/Feed Flanges + AN-10 Fittings + 10-AN SS Hose + 4-AN Feed Line
$100 - Tial 38mm WG *friend's old WG with only 2k miles on it lol
$35 - Tial 5.8PSI Spring
$90 - HKS SSQV BOV *used one from a friend, yes it's a real one not imitation lol
$50 - AEM Dryflow 4"x 9" Air Filter
$30 - Silicone Elbow 90'degree 2.5" to 3"
$20 - Silicone Coupler 4" two pieces

Basically, I got the best deal possible...but still buying all high quality components. You can go cheap, but don't get low quality stuff!
Damn, maybe I should start getting parts now..that doesn't seem too bad at all! $2750 for those that don't want to add it all. Why do you have two WG's?

Also about how long/hard was the install?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by GSoup
Thanks Mikal..its been in for 3 weeks now. Mannnnn i'm loving it .
Yeah i got rid of that so-called "silicone" hose already.

I gotta put a heatshield in too... i may do that Supra DIY with the stainless steel pot..LOL have you seen that one?
yup.. seen that. That guy was a genius.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:57 PM
  #126  
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Very nice write up I think the next one you do will be a pice of cake!!! NICE WORK
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 03:45 AM
  #127  
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This is one hell of a buildup thread!!
Thanks for sharing.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:45 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Eminence
Good choice...At the end, with piggyback; buying and selling of it; alot of time and money is lost at the end. Getting the standalone at first will save you alot of headaches and alot of time. I wanted to go piggyback with my setup also, but the car has been down for about 1 1/2 years now, so I don't see how a few more months of time spent saving money for a standalone will hurt.
I'm waiting on the AEM FIC... since I'm not looking to do ridiculous numbers...
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116

Originally Posted by Richie
This is one hell of a buildup thread!!
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, JEff has done an incredible job here
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #129  
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Im fighting between gte swap or na-t. My main problem is emissions. The Aristo ECU wont work and I would fail. All they do is hook it up check for codes and thats it. They wont put it on the rollers or anything. But if they hook it up and it doesnt read the ECU correctly, you fail. Would it work to do stand alone controlled na-t swap and swap back in the stock ecu to pass and swap it back out when done. I dont want to have to worry about some shady deals to pass. Anyone dealt with this delema?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by KiPod
Im fighting between gte swap or na-t. My main problem is emissions. The Aristo ECU wont work and I would fail. All they do is hook it up check for codes and thats it. They wont put it on the rollers or anything. But if they hook it up and it doesnt read the ECU correctly, you fail. Would it work to do stand alone controlled na-t swap and swap back in the stock ecu to pass and swap it back out when done. I dont want to have to worry about some shady deals to pass. Anyone dealt with this delema?
Yea the IS300 community has been dealing with thie problem from the getgo. This is why I mentioned the AEM 1050 modified box for the IS/GS. There is a company that claims their AEM box will not throw a check engine light, which in turn would mean you shouldn't fail a OBD II test for emission. I live out in MA, and we go through the same emission testing process. This is the only reason why I think the AEM is worthwhile, it supposedly get rid of alot of headaches. I can't personally attest to it, but 1 IS300 owner has it, ran it and says no CEL. Any of the other standalone will throw codes, i.e haltech, motec, etc.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 10:13 PM
  #131  
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do it Ki... thern m,aybe one day u can do mine.. maybe i'll sell minen get a GS3
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:39 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by Eminence
I can't personally attest to it, but 1 IS300 owner has it, ran it and says no CEL. Any of the other standalone will throw codes, i.e haltech, motec, etc.
That was my next question. Do the other engine management systems throw codes and thats why they wont pass? If they do and the modified AEM 1050 doesnt, I think Ive solved my problem. Any specific place where I can find this "modified" AEM 1050? Also, do you think it would be possible to get a modified AEM for the Aristo? The only thing holding me back from the GTE swap is the ECU. It would be my dream to do the GTE swap with standalone and be able to pass emissions.

& Adam, dont sell your car. Just go twin.

Last edited by KiPod; Apr 5, 2007 at 05:51 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #133  
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haha TT on the V8 is a hell of a job.... rather throw in a 2jz... but it just seems so easy to go NA-T
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #134  
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Jeff - can you chime in on the electronics side of going NA-T?

Namely with the photo below?


Thanks buddy.

c.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #135  
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that looks like a bridge connecter for the ecu, it enables you to cut the wires in the "bridge" instead of cutting the oem wires. thus if you go back to stock, you'll have no cut wires and keep the oem 'look'
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