sweet jesus

cant wait to see more pics!!

why do u have so many manifolds btw? lol

 

looks good hurry and boost that thing? No headgasket?

 

Mar 16, 2007: Drilling the oil return.....

Drilling the oil return line took me WAAAY longer than it should of. I did it a really stupid way. Yes, it's extremely secure the way I drilled and tapped the individual bolts but it's also not necessary. Anyways, if you do it yourself...I recommend you use some self tapping screws. It will save you a LOT OF TIME!!! Drilling and tapping in a confined work area took me over 5 hours!

- A few new toys came in today.
- Installed ECU patch harness.
- Drilled and tapped EGT sensor hole.
- Pull off radiator hose so I could drill the oil return holes.
- Drilled oil retrun drain hole.
- Removed the whole thermostat piping...lol
- Finished mounting up the drain flange.
- Tighetn turbo housing.
- Mocked up more IC piping. Taking to shop tomorrow to bead and weld pipes.


SAFC Neo came in today. Gonna use this to control fuel. It should be sufficient for now since I'm running really low boost.


ECU patch harness. Basically puts a bridge between the stock ecu wiring. This way you don't have to hack up the OEM wires. Instead you splice and cut the patch harness.


Pictures of how it's hooked up.


EGT temperature probe mounted. Drilled and tapped the hole for the sensor. I put it in the cylinder 6 pipe because it's supposed to be the hottest running cylinder out of them all.


Pulled off the radiator hose for more clearance. If you have a small drill you can skip this step. My drill is really long so I had to do this.


Start drilling.


Close up of where I'm drilling.

 

Drilling complete. Notice a few shavings fell in...lol. Don't worry I'll be flushing those out a bit later.


Even closer.


Drilling the side holes.


Notice I took off the whole entire thermostat housing lol. I couldn't drill the top hole without removing it. Again, you can skip this step if you have a short drill


Everything done and put back together. Notice the ground wire for the engine block is bolted back on as well. I didn't put the transmission cooler hose brackets on yet. I'll do that some other time.


Tightening the bolts so the housing no longer spins freely.


Turbo and manifold completely bolted on. Everything tigtened down, no more easy removal of the turbo from this point on. Mocked up an extra pipe for the intercooler. More to come tomorrow.

 

wow, i can't wait to see the finished product. great job.

 

Mar 17, 2007: Putting everything together...and disaster!

Once again, I said earlier to use only quality flanges. I didn't follow my own advice on ONE of the drain flanges and look what happened!

- Got new O2 bung drilled and welded.
- Got all pipes bead welded
- One pipe I did a "custom" bead lol
- Flush engine to get metal shavings out
- Made my custom ghetto *** HKS BOV flange mount lol
- Putting oil lines on and disaster strikes....


Got new O2 bung drilled and welded. Previous one was in the wrong place. The sensor was hitting something so I had to get a different hole put in.


Pic of the car. Left side of IC piping is completed and mounted on.


How to make a custom/ghetto pipe bead. These are the materials needed.


Mask off the area and apply epoxy.


Pull tape off before the epoxy cures. Make sure the epoxy is in a tacky state and won't drip. You have to get your timing down just right or else the bead will come out really messy.


Flushing the metal shavings out. Have a funnel+tubing with correct sized tip. I bought this one at walmart for like $2-3. Plug the bottom into the oil return flange.

 

Make sure you unscrew the drain plug and have something to catch the oil or else you're gonna make a mess!


Dump oil in to flush. I used my old oil to flush out the shavings. No point in wasting new oil.


Beginning of my ghetto *** BOV flange mount.


See, I told you...it really can't get any worse than this


Test fitting the BOV. I'm goin to apply epoxy to seal off the sides where the pipe contacts the flange.


Finished and mounted!


Everything put back together. Getting ready to install oil drain line next.


Disaster strikes! The oil return flange cracked in half. This is why I said not to go cheap...lol. This was off of my old turbo and I thought it would hold up. Well...apparently it didn't. These cheap ones are made out of cast 6061 aluminum. The flange on my engine block is a very high quality piece CNC machined billet 7075 aluminum alloy. My advice is to buy Function7 flanges. This part put my project on hold until next week when the flange comes in!

 

Does anyone in the DFW area have an extra oil drain flange? Mine just cracked in half lol. I'm trying to get the car to the meet tomorrow with the turbo, but thats not gonna happen without an oil return lol.

EDIT: Ok, no performance shops open tomorrow and probably nobody has a spare flange...sooo car isn't gonna be at the DFW Lexus meet tomorrow

Oh well, I'll take the other Lex out and all the reason to have another meet ASAP!

 

ah and the epic saga is now on hold

cant wait to see it finished and dyno'ed!

 

the plot thickens...

 

Jeff, this is an amazing writeup, thanks for sharing it at clubna-t as well!

Check your PM, I have something for you.

 

Where did u get the patch harness?

 

he made the patch harness himself.

JEFF'S THE MAN!!!

 

Haha, no way man lol. I would of if i could. Those connectors are pretty much impossible to source. I have no idea how the heck they got them. I bought it from Boomslang fabrication. They don't have one specifically listed for 02+ GS300, but it's the exact same one as for the 02+ IS300. I just ordered the IS harness. It is a bit pricey at $200, but well worth it if I don't have to hack into the stock wiring.

 

I'm going to be e-mailing Boomslang in regards to the 98-01 GS to see if they could either build a harness, or if the 01+ will work. Does anyone know if it would?