Hello, sorry for the confusion, just wanted to help. Also, as per post above you have the option to send the ECU to them, or... in my case... as living in Europe far away... I had the option to restore the ECU by myself, with D3 help and guidance.
They provided me the diagram to connect the bricked ECU on the bench with the Tactrix device, and using their software to do the recovery procedure.

See pics below from when I removed the ECU from the engine bay - all needed was to first remove the car battery for safety and then unscrew the plastic cap and then the ECU itself. I think they were 12mm bolts.





Then helped by the provided diagram and some minor skills, I have connected the ECU to the Tactrix device + a 12Volts source + the laptop. You can see below the ECU on my bench and the connections (you need their diagram specific for your ECU!)




Then I have used the software to do the recovery (nevermind the last highlighted in red alert message, - software gimmick - all was good)




And afterwards, I went back to the car with the restored ECU, started the car to check if it was all good, and finally I have tuned the car as I wanted from their tune options.



Please note that I have the 200t - 2.0 Turbo engine. In your case the diagram and even the ECU location may be different.

Regarding my opinion on the d3 tune: I have used a piggyback tune before this, and I can say that the low-end on the D3 is just a bit less agressive than it used to be on the piggyback device - HOWEVER once the revs go higher, it is a lot better and it holds the boost on the turbo until redline. The transmission is in tune with the whole package - I am very happy with the tune and also I love the fact that I can keep it a notch down when in Normal mode, and then unleash the beast in Sport mode - which should be the way to truly and fully enjoy this tune.

Let us know how and when you solved your issue.

 

@frank357 Just to add some clarification since the thread is slightly veering in the wrong direction. It is not necessary nor is there any reason for you to bench flash or remove and ship your ECU to D3. It is not in a "bricked" state. Post # 16 (although very useful for the DIYer) should only be viewed as for educational purposes. Do not let the pictures/info overwhelm you. As long as your vehicle remains able to turn over (start and run), you can disregard that process. The phrase "resetting the ECU" is an overused misconception. The ECU doesn't fully reset itself. Essentially all that occurs from unplugging and allowing the residual power to deplete is the clearing of recordable memory data (think computer "RAM"). When the data recorded and stored by the ECU is cleared, the ECU re-learns the previously stored values. These values include Fuel trims, KCLV, CEL data, Emissions tests (HO2S, Evap check, Catalyst efficiency, etc), etc. Using an OBDII scan tool that is capable of reading freeze frame/live data is the easiest way to visually observe the so called "ECU reset".

Back on topic: Try re-installing the tune file.

 

The post above is absolutely correct! Sorry, I have let myself carried away with the whole Un-Brick story. My post above is indeed for educational purposes, and just to re-confirm that it is really hard to break these ECUs.

So, once again the post above is spot-on, I think you should:

1. Re-install the tune, but please make sure your car is stock, as in, all fuses are in their place, so that the software would know what capabilities your car system has.
2. At any stage, should you encounter any issues, just call D3. I know I did and got every bit of help I needed. D3 Performance phone number: (832) 953-5431‬, Monday-Friday 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM CST

Also, at any step, just remember that it is really hard to break your ECU, and if it becomes bricked then you have OPTIONS! As per above posts, so nothing is lost, the world does not end!

 

Just FYI:

What Does The Term “Bricked Computer” Mean?

The terms “brick” and “bricked” can apply to a computer or hardware component that has experienced a poor upgrade and/or change, most typically a firmware update change, and that as a result is no longer in operation for the original nor, new purpose. The equipment being updated would fail to work and perform the intended task, for instance, if someone performed the firmware update or programed changes erroneously or failed to allow it to conclude effectively.

 

okay! A lot of message since my last post ahah

I already think about calling directly D3 but english is not my main language so that will be hard to communicate with someone by speaking. Its a lot more easier to me to talk by message

I already tried to uninstall/reinstall tune, sport+ and custom always missing

Its a pretty good call about the fuse, but D3 call me in the past, its impossible to flash the wrong car because of the VIN number. So its supposed to be a tune for a 2018 is350 AWD. And all is350 from this year have AVS no? So even without the fuse, its supposed to flash like it was a is350 with AVS right?

I send a message about this to D3 and let see what he will say

 

May I just tell you from experience. D3 is slow on emails, and messages. I think it's is only a 2 person crew working all the time. If you can just call and have someone tell them you sent a email and you need help. Are you emailing or other message type sent?

 

Yeah I know they are slow ahah But im not hurry anyway

They reply me a couple of times, to reset de ECU and sport+ will be back. But I said I did it but my issue still. So now I reply to him about the fuse. Waiting for the answer

 

Yessir! Finally resolve it with some test. After you guys talk about the fuse

I did some test, I tune back to stock without the fuse, no sport+(that was not the case the 1st time I did it). So ECU check the fuse, to know if its a car with AVS or not(after each reset). So I think, when I flashed the tune for the 1st time(no reset), ECU remembered that I have a AVS system, even without the fuse. So its why I keep sport+ when I flashed back to stock the 1st time. After each ECU reset, ECU forget I have it(stock or tuned). So I need to put back my fuse and flash a tune to get sport+ back(flash to stock or stock->tuned)

So I put back my fuse, flashed the tune and now all is okay!

Thx for the help guys!

 

That is some nice problem-solving right there. Good to know!

 

So it was not fault of the Tune. It was because you removed the fuse?

 

Yep exactly. So with or without the tune, if you reset the Ecu without the fuse(or a dead one), youll lose the sport+ mode

 

Looks like my suggestion back on post #9 was the solution to your problem! Glad all is well and we all learned the importance of that fuse and it's impact on ECU Flashing.