Brake Steel Line Info Needed
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Brake Steel Line Info Needed
1st Gen 1993 SC-400 (1UZFE)
Several steel brake lines (around the rear of car) are rusted thru and leaking. Although I dug up the section P/N's, I've checked several suppliers and some of those sections are no longer available from Lexus.. Therefore, we need to fabricate. I have the CORRECT tools for bending and installation but I can't find specific data on needed sizes. The OEM stuff is SO badly corroded I can't be certain of what I'm measuring with calipers.
What is the standard Toyota/Lexus steel brake line size and associated fittings?
I suspect it is 6mm OD steel tubing, double-flare ends and with M10x1 nuts. Is this correct?
Any suggestions for reasonably-priced suppliers or do I need to do the Google/Amazon/eBay route?
Thx in advance for any assistance or info.
Several steel brake lines (around the rear of car) are rusted thru and leaking. Although I dug up the section P/N's, I've checked several suppliers and some of those sections are no longer available from Lexus.. Therefore, we need to fabricate. I have the CORRECT tools for bending and installation but I can't find specific data on needed sizes. The OEM stuff is SO badly corroded I can't be certain of what I'm measuring with calipers.
What is the standard Toyota/Lexus steel brake line size and associated fittings?
I suspect it is 6mm OD steel tubing, double-flare ends and with M10x1 nuts. Is this correct?
Any suggestions for reasonably-priced suppliers or do I need to do the Google/Amazon/eBay route?
Thx in advance for any assistance or info.
#2
Intermediate
I'm just starting this job myself. I'm using copper/nickel alloy tubing. It's very ductile (hand bendable) and is a form of stainless steel so it won't corrode.
I'm using 3/16 to mate to the 6mm factory line
I'll be coupling at the drivers side cat and running all the way to the flex lines. I'll use metric fittings when coupling to to the factory metric (drill out to accommodate the imperial size line if I have a fit issue).
I'm also replacing the fuel lines as they are suffering the same fate. Same strategy however using 5/16 line mating to the 8mm factory line.
I'm using stainless fittings ordered from Classic tube and brass couplers.
I have a parts car and have dropped the rear cradle so I have clear access to the lines (rotten even worse than my driver). I'll be pulling one line at a time from the parts car to use as a model and bend the new line as closely as possible to the factory runs so I can use all the factory mounts etc.
I also have good benders (Ridgid roller benders) and flaring tools (eastwood bench tool, and mastercool for on car). I could likely hand bend but since I have the tools I'll use them for crisper bends.
Fittings haven't arrived but the job will start soon. I'll update with the exact fittings and drilling required as I go along
I'm using 3/16 to mate to the 6mm factory line
I'll be coupling at the drivers side cat and running all the way to the flex lines. I'll use metric fittings when coupling to to the factory metric (drill out to accommodate the imperial size line if I have a fit issue).
I'm also replacing the fuel lines as they are suffering the same fate. Same strategy however using 5/16 line mating to the 8mm factory line.
I'm using stainless fittings ordered from Classic tube and brass couplers.
I have a parts car and have dropped the rear cradle so I have clear access to the lines (rotten even worse than my driver). I'll be pulling one line at a time from the parts car to use as a model and bend the new line as closely as possible to the factory runs so I can use all the factory mounts etc.
I also have good benders (Ridgid roller benders) and flaring tools (eastwood bench tool, and mastercool for on car). I could likely hand bend but since I have the tools I'll use them for crisper bends.
Fittings haven't arrived but the job will start soon. I'll update with the exact fittings and drilling required as I go along
#3
I'm just starting this job myself. I'm using copper/nickel alloy tubing. It's very ductile (hand bendable) and is a form of stainless steel so it won't corrode.
I'm using 3/16 to mate to the 6mm factory line
I'll be coupling at the drivers side cat and running all the way to the flex lines. I'll use metric fittings when coupling to to the factory metric (drill out to accommodate the imperial size line if I have a fit issue).
I'm also replacing the fuel lines as they are suffering the same fate. Same strategy however using 5/16 line mating to the 8mm factory line.
I'm using stainless fittings ordered from Classic tube and brass couplers.
I have a parts car and have dropped the rear cradle so I have clear access to the lines (rotten even worse than my driver). I'll be pulling one line at a time from the parts car to use as a model and bend the new line as closely as possible to the factory runs so I can use all the factory mounts etc.
I also have good benders (Ridgid roller benders) and flaring tools (eastwood bench tool, and mastercool for on car). I could likely hand bend but since I have the tools I'll use them for crisper bends.
Fittings haven't arrived but the job will start soon. I'll update with the exact fittings and drilling required as I go along
I'm using 3/16 to mate to the 6mm factory line
I'll be coupling at the drivers side cat and running all the way to the flex lines. I'll use metric fittings when coupling to to the factory metric (drill out to accommodate the imperial size line if I have a fit issue).
I'm also replacing the fuel lines as they are suffering the same fate. Same strategy however using 5/16 line mating to the 8mm factory line.
I'm using stainless fittings ordered from Classic tube and brass couplers.
I have a parts car and have dropped the rear cradle so I have clear access to the lines (rotten even worse than my driver). I'll be pulling one line at a time from the parts car to use as a model and bend the new line as closely as possible to the factory runs so I can use all the factory mounts etc.
I also have good benders (Ridgid roller benders) and flaring tools (eastwood bench tool, and mastercool for on car). I could likely hand bend but since I have the tools I'll use them for crisper bends.
Fittings haven't arrived but the job will start soon. I'll update with the exact fittings and drilling required as I go along
#4
Intermediate
I move slowly but am close to starting the brake and fuel line job. I removed the driver side cat (as well as the rest of the exhaust). I needed to order a mid length 14mm socket (3/8 drive) and put it on a wobbler extension to get one of the 3 cat bolts off. This gives me access to the brake line connections behind the cat and heat shield. I'll re-use a lexus fitting at the connections there, run 3/16 line all the way back to the connections above the rear cradle. I'll replace those connections with 3/16 stainless flare nuts into 3/16 brass connectors that i will mount with home made stainless brackets. From the connector I'll run the short section to the flex lines in 3/16 tube and re-use the Lexus flex line connector. I'd like to swap this for a stainless piece but haven't found one.
I'll be applying copper anti sieze to all threaded connections.
I'm going to drop the rear cradle tomorrow and start pulling the rusted lines.
Today I pulled a fuel line fitting and 5/16 tube is a near perfect fit. I'm going to replace the fuel lines from hose connections at the booster all the way back to the tank connectors. Grabbed another filter too. Man $75 from the stealership.
Probably won't be bending/flaring for a few days
I'll do my best to document the job.
I'll be applying copper anti sieze to all threaded connections.
I'm going to drop the rear cradle tomorrow and start pulling the rusted lines.
Today I pulled a fuel line fitting and 5/16 tube is a near perfect fit. I'm going to replace the fuel lines from hose connections at the booster all the way back to the tank connectors. Grabbed another filter too. Man $75 from the stealership.
Probably won't be bending/flaring for a few days
I'll do my best to document the job.
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dadswrld (08-17-17)
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