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I should mention that the 23 is the same as the 22, and fits perfectly:
Draw-Tite part:
76634
Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2‑Inch Receiver, Black, Compatible with Lexus NX250, NX350h, NX450h+ : Toyota, RAV4
The Draw-Tite 76634 and 76201 are the same other than the shape of the ends. The 76634 has a bigger cutout running to the second bolt on the sides to compensate for the hangers on the exhaust. Some hangers like on the NX350 are wider and will not allow the bigger plate on the 76201 to bolt up. Some people have changed there hangers so different hitches will fit.
If you are able to find out what Curt Manufacturing wiring kit number the shop used, please post it so everyone knows. At this time on the Curt Manufacturing website their not showing anything for wiring for the NX series. All there showing at the time of this posting is hitches.
I can confirm that the Tekonsha 118868 does NOT work. The connectors fit properly, but the wires are not on the correct pin locations.
On the driver's side, the car uses these 5 pins:
Car
The Tekonsha has the yellow wire on the red pin, and the brown wire on the blue pin.
I could make it work by rearranging the wires, but am still exploring alternate solutions. A dealership I called looked up the Lexus Part number, PT725-48140-CV. It is called a "tow convertor", and looks like the following. Does anyone know how that might work? I have no idea where it would plug in.
I can confirm that the Tekonsha 118868 does NOT work. The connectors fit properly, but the wires are not on the correct pin locations.
On the driver's side, the car uses these 5 pins:
Car
The Tekonsha has the yellow wire on the red pin, and the brown wire on the blue pin.
I could make it work by rearranging the wires, but am still exploring alternate solutions. A dealership I called looked up the Lexus Part number, PT725-48140-CV. It is called a "tow convertor", and looks like the following. Does anyone know how that might work? I have no idea where it would plug in.
Which wires would you re-arrange?
I am puzzled that after 3 model years of production Lexus still does not offer a tow hitch solution for NX. They offer Tow prep for the car, but are not capable to design / offer the proper hitch and wiring...
I know that Lexus is very difficult when it comes to OEM parts. I want to be able to carry my bikes, I have 2 e-bikes total weight is about 120 pounds, then the Rack is about 30 Pounds (total 150 pounds). The Activity hit offered at the Services is only rated at 100 pounds.
Has anyone found an activity hitch rated at more than 100pounds? Or used U-Haul without any issues or maybe e-trailers without a problem?
I can find Tow Hitches for the NX 350 Base. I called U-Haul, etrailers, and a few other places, they all said there is no tow hitch for the F-Sport. Does anyone have the F-Sport with an after market hitch?
This is the site I found it on and if you enter a zip code and then a dealer has select this dealer next to it then you should be able to order online. I will say that I checked 4 around the same area and they all had different prices. hope this helps.
@NavySubs I used Wesley Chapel Parts Dept for Mud Guards. Lexus had a sale on all parts when I got them otherwise they are not the cheapest.
I want to look into getting the OEM Tow Hitch. I've looked through the thread and don't see where you listed the Part Number. I know this is an older post but do you know the Part Number?
I have the 23 450H+ Base. I'm up in Crystal River and got tired of Lexus of Clearwater. Haven't used Wesley Chapel for service, are they any good?
I’m also interested on the site that you purchased the hitch from. We just got a 23 NX450H+ that has the tow package just no hitch. Like you no plans to actually tow with it,just for using the bike rack. Thanks
@Dunerking I just got my 23 450H+ Base beginning of April. Did you get the OEM Hitch? If so, do you remember the Part Number? If you did get the OEM Hitch, did you have the dealer install or did you have someone else install? Would you share the cost amounts for part and install?
For anyone in the Tampa/Orlando area that needs a hitch/wiring harness take it to Todd’s Motortown in Lakeland. They were able to install the Curt wiring harness with some changing of wiring on the right turn signal. I’m not sure what exactly it took to make it work, but they were able to get it done within a few hours. I’m so happy, and the pricing was really good.
@CodyWSMB01 I live in Crystal River. Just ran across this thread with your post. I have the 23 450H+ does this work for that model or do you know? What hitch did you go with, OEM, Curt or Draw-Tite? Do you remember the costs?
After a lot of consideration, I decided to stick with the Lexus factory class 3 hitch. The main reasoning was that it did not hang below the bumper, but poked through it partially. I ordered the hitch (PW960-78005) and a kick sensor (8910A-78010) from mylparts.com. The factory kick sensor sits in the area where the hitch receiver pokes through the bumper. The new one is half the size and works quite well, but only to the left of the receiver (totally fine by me). I also ordered the Tekonsha TK73VR harness with the intention of installing it like newguytoda. By the way, I think there is a Lexus harness. See part number PT725-78220. It's a little pricey, but I imagine it's plug and play with all the connectors hiding under the trunk floor. I might try to find a 12V source there for the Tekonsha harness. The dealer wanted $1700 for parts and labor installing the hitch and kick sensor.
I installed the hitch (scanned instructions attached). It was pretty straight forward, but delicate in some parts. The two most difficult steps were taking the bumper cover off without breaking locking tabs or clips and torquing the bolts that were closest to the muffler and rear axle. There was no way to get my torque wrench in there with a socket. I bought a 1/2" drive 19mm crowfoot wrench (open combo end) thinking the profile will make it possible to slide the torque wrench in, but because the wrench was open ended and the required torque was 74ft-lbs, I could not snug the bolt without risking rounding the head. The wrench would flex out enough to enable spin. I opted for a closed end combo wrench and just tightened it to the same perceived force as the other bolts which I torqued to spec. Shallow sockets are your friend here! The bumper cover cutting was easy with a multi-tool. I used a cutting bit for metal, and it went through the bumper like butter. No cracking and very clean! I used masking tape to mark the cutting lines and after some light sanding, it looked great. I only made the center cut for the receiver, the other cuts were not necessary. The hitch arms do come close to the plastic on the sides, but I can't imagine a scenario where that would be a problem.
I did end up with a spare factory kick sensor, a bumper impact bar (hitch replaces it), and the activity mount. If anyone wants them, they're in the marketplace:
After a lot of consideration, I decided to stick with the Lexus factory class 3 hitch. The main reasoning was that it did not hang below the bumper, but poked through it partially. I ordered the hitch (PW960-78005) and a kick sensor (8910A-78010) from mylparts.com. The factory kick sensor sits in the area where the hitch receiver pokes through the bumper. The new one is half the size and works quite well, but only to the left of the receiver (totally fine by me). I also ordered the Tekonsha TK73VR harness with the intention of installing it like newguytoda. By the way, I think there is a Lexus harness. See part number PT725-78220. It's a little pricey, but I imagine it's plug and play with all the connectors hiding under the trunk floor. I might try to find a 12V source there for the Tekonsha harness. The dealer wanted $1700 for parts and labor installing the hitch and kick sensor.
I installed the hitch (scanned instructions attached). It was pretty straight forward, but delicate in some parts. The two most difficult steps were taking the bumper cover off without breaking locking tabs or clips and torquing the bolts that were closest to the muffler and rear axle. There was no way to get my torque wrench in there with a socket. I bought a 1/2" drive 19mm crowfoot wrench (open combo end) thinking the profile will make it possible to slide the torque wrench in, but because the wrench was open ended and the required torque was 74ft-lbs, I could not snug the bolt without risking rounding the head. The wrench would flex out enough to enable spin. I opted for a closed end combo wrench and just tightened it to the same perceived force as the other bolts which I torqued to spec. Shallow sockets are your friend here! The bumper cover cutting was easy with a multi-tool. I used a cutting bit for metal, and it went through the bumper like butter. No cracking and very clean! I used masking tape to mark the cutting lines and after some light sanding, it looked great. I only made the center cut for the receiver, the other cuts were not necessary. The hitch arms do come close to the plastic on the sides, but I can't imagine a scenario where that would be a problem.
I did end up with a spare factory kick sensor, a bumper impact bar (hitch replaces it), and the activity mount. If anyone wants them, they're in the marketplace:
Are you looking for a 12v source for a relay to run the trailer lights? I’ve seen others do the same, but Tekonsha just reminds me of brake controllers, which I won’t need. Someone once said the Curt was a t plug, but I don’t remember any problem with the led circuit pushing trailer lights from that one specifically. If anyone has any definitive technical reason why it has to get 12v from the front, I’d like to know.
Are you looking for a 12v source for a relay to run the trailer lights? I’ve seen others do the same, but Tekonsha just reminds me of brake controllers, which I won’t need. Someone once said the Curt was a t plug, but I don’t remember any problem with the led circuit pushing trailer lights from that one specifically. If anyone has any definitive technical reason why it has to get 12v from the front, I’d like to know.
Yes, it's for trailer lights. This is a good point. I'm assuming I should find 12v as I don't know how the Tekonsha internals work. I also don't want to put any extra load on the LED circuit. I'm wiring up my own trailer lighting, so in case I fumble it up, I prefer the Tekonsha fuse to bear it.
Yes, it's for trailer lights. This is a good point. I'm assuming I should find 12v as I don't know how the Tekonsha internals work. I also don't want to put any extra load on the LED circuit. I'm wiring up my own trailer lighting, so in case I fumble it up, I prefer the Tekonsha fuse to bear it.
For the non-hybrid (that has the battery up front), can you wire the trailer light power to the accessory socket in the rear? I think that is a 10amp source. Perhaps label it not to use when trailer is connected.