This is very true plastic will get brittle over time and can easily break. Screws are much stronger and even if you angle there is very little pressure on the screws once they have been secured and tightened.

Enjoy you updated audio.


YMMV,
MidCow3

 

BTW this is another reason to get the C2-400X instead. I had absolutely no clearance issues screwing in the speakers to the mounts.

 

And installed 3 JL C2-350x‘s in the dash and the Kicker HS-10 in the trunk storage space. Very happy with it. Thanks to all here for the tips and Lyzardo for the 3rd JL.

question for those with a similar setup: how do you keep the HS-10 in place and keep it from rattling the plastic? I put a firm adhesive foam on the underside of the sub which seems to be working so far, but I’m worried it will slide. I tried Velcro command strips first but they didn’t provide enough separation and it was vibrating the plastic.

 

Exactly the mounting is the biggest problem with aftermarket subwoofers. It can not only rattle, but it can't fly away in an accident. I recommend a minimum of 3 screw mounting to the metal body.

A humble note that you can check: it was me the first to bring the JL C2-350X to the forum.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-...l#post11580649

 

Yes, quite pleased w the great sound choice you made selecting these speakers..... damn nice choice.
Thank you

 

I had already upgraded the 3 front speakers to the larger JL Audio C2-400X 4" 2-way car speakers and subsequently had decided that I wanted to play with upgrading to a powered subwoofer. I desired it to be compact enough to tuck out of the way, and below the cargo cover was not an option since I had already modified that area to house my Modern Spare tire.

As an experiment, I ordered the H YANKA SODA-08ASW 400W 8 Inch Compact Under Seat Car Subwoofer with Built-in Amp from Amazon (it was less than $80 with the coupon, small enough to fit in the back hatch passenger side "notch"; and returnable in 30 days). I have an NX 350, so no hybrid battery in the back, but for the trial I just utilized a 16 AWG cigarette lighter adapter that I had and plugged into the power port in the back, and used the extra speaker connector adapter I had left over from the front dash middle speaker upgrade to cleanly connect to the OEM subwoofer input connector.

I was pleasantly surprised. Now my days of shaking the car bass have past - I was just looking for something to fill in what I perceive as a lack of lower (albeit not lowest) end. I was surprised at how well it sounded. Now granted, like all subwoofers, it takes some time to tune it in to avoid a 1-note boominess, but once tuned it in fills the void nicely.

Truth be told my main concern was with the “Womp” and noise reduction issues that others have posted with powered subs – thus my “experiment” to see if I could bypass, or live with, either or both issues.

Initially I did indeed have the “Womp” issue, however, by enabling both the Sub's auto power on feature (for line level inputs) and using the power port power which only powers up after the ignition is turned on, it disappeared. I'm honestly not sure if it’s a combination of the three delays (power port energization/Amp turn on/auto on sensing), or something has changed in the latest NX model year – but the "Womp Womp Womp" sound is no longer heard. I have a 2025 (manufactured in January 2025 if it matters).

One thing I have noticed is that I do need to adjust the bass level based on the source (i.e. Sirius XM, Apple Music, Spotify, Terrestrial radio, etc.) so the remote adjustment that comes with the powered subwoofer was a necessity for me. It works well; however, the interconnecting wire that was included was way too short to run/hide to the front of the NX. Amazon sells a longer (16 ft) cable that worked perfectly.

As far as the final installation:

• I installed the remote bass **** in the center console cubby next to where I had already installed my hardwired Uniden Radar Detector Smart Mute/Mark Button - I think they blend in perfectly (although I may remove the mounting tabs for an even cleaner look). I hid the wire from behind the center console dash, under the passenger side front & rear door sill plates, to the subwoofer in the back.
• I hardwired the sub's power input (i.e., no plug in cigarette lighter), however I purchased and used the mating male/female power port connectors so I can easily remove everything without a trace should the need arise. I used 16 AWG wire (identical to what is run to the rear power port) and everything works as intended.
• I used a small piece of dense foam under the subwoofer - first it protects/hides the interconnecting wires and adjustment switches/pots, and it prevents any rattles from contents in the back or under the cargo cover.

I included pics of the final installation – please ignore the dirt/dust as I hadn’t cleaned everything up from the install when I took the pics lol.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the great information in this thread. Has anyone compared the ML sub to something like the HS10? I have the ML and the audio quality is great except for the sub, which is severely lacking under 100 Hz or so. I’m considering doing the HS10 install if it will get me those true sub bass frequencies. Not looking to rattle the neighborhood but I listen to and produce dance music so the boom of the kick drum is essential for me.

 

Hey guys, looking to get the Taramps bass 400 amp, which ohm rating should i get, 1 or 2 ohms? Thanks!

 

Awesome installation! I did the same for my NX350. However, I think with mine being a F Sport, it has the artificial engine noise being pumped into the cabin that apparently only F sports trim models get. Therefore, I couldn't get rid of the "womp womp" noise when I was driving and it was driving me bonkers. I see yours is a non F Sport, glad it worked out for you. I definitely noticed the same bass improvement too, too bad I couldn't keep the unit due to the stupid "womp womp" noise...

 

Honestly, tuning the HS10 just takes time and will really depend on your listening style. I have the non ML and installed the HS10 and feel like it might be better than the ML sub. Mind you, I've only sat inside a ML NX for about 5-10 mins to compare as I was curious to know how it sounded. I think what shines in the ML is the tweeter and other speakers paired with the amp to give it a premium sound. I did change out my 3x dash speakers to kicker cs ones and was a world difference compared to OEM. Going back on the sub, it's not called a kicker for no reason; it really packs a kick.

 

The sub channel on most modern Lexus‘s for the sub Frequency is 35 to 70 or so Hz. It’s just that your stock can’t produce those frequencies well but they’re there. Use a high-quality LOC like LC2i pro or LC7i pro from audiocontrol and you’ll be fine. Hope this helps my friend.

 

I have read this topic almost and can't figure out difference between Levinson vs stock system,there are 17 speakers but can't count them on the diagram picture they provide.do the ml system still needs extra sub?are the speakers the same quality in ml vs stock system?can i still add amp along with factory ml amp?
mine is ML,just having few days now and i'm not impressed with a sound.my friend's bmw 328 has better "punch".i was searching in car audio settings hoping smth was off but it wan't

 

I don't think there is any cut off in the sound being fed into the factory sub. The roll off of frequency is due to the characteristics and frequency response curve of the sub speaker and box itself. Below is a pink noise output placed next to the factory sub, and although it is picking up some of the other speakers in the car, you can see there is no electronic cut off like a normal sub amp. They cheeped out all the way, however because it is sending out sound covering all frequencies, it is easy to boost/cut to create a much better quality output by simply adding a subwoofer amp with just a volume level and adjustable cut off frequency. If you have a tester that can analyze the output directly would likely confirm this, but it matters little for the fix is the same. Add a Subwoofer Amp. Using a fancy LOC is just spending money with minimal return considering all the other acoustic issues the car has.

As for the ML system, Lexus claims to already use a dedicated sub-woofer amp, so adding another may or may not help. I would look through the posts what others did with the ML and if they had any success. And yes, Lexus built an awful audio system compared to just about everyone else, not just BMW. Sad they charge so much more for the ML system that is only slightly better, and often not even better than putting $150 into the stock system.

 

So funny i searched in internet before buying even asked to AI and ML is in worlds top 5 systems.maybe people have different opinion how sound should be.Lexus is toward classic so they opted system for classiacal genres,clear and crisp.
for me low frequency is #1.HK system in my friends f30 is almost what i want,just needs better highs and clarity

 

Ideal system is a sub in front.human ear shape design is to hear better from front,when the sound comes from front.that's why rear speakers doesn't matter and that's why they are muffled from factory,use fader u will find out.