Technical Help (by Mitsuguy and ArmyofOne)
#106
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
so ok i got my coolant changed from Lexus service how can i tell the before and after fluid..because before i could see some particles and now i still see pretty much same thing,,and also the colour of the fluid ( i think) looks the same to me...is there any way i can tell before from after of the coolant ..thanks
#107
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Just purchased a 2012 RX AWD, NAV, Comfort Pkg, Premium Pkg. I traded in a 2004 RX AWD fully loaded with 64K and never had any problems. I'm not sure about purchasing an extended warranty because by buying the 7 year/70k mileage plan for $1695 I would be paying for 4 years that my factory warranty already covers. If the plan picked up at the end of my factory warranty I could understand. I realize there are alot more mechanical things that could go wrong which is why I'm concerned. Any advice?
It is a gamble, a little, but I wouldn't worry about it...
#108
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Hey! I was wondering if you could help me out. I'm trying to install the window side moulding because it got damaged when the guy tinting my car was using a heat gun. It's the window moulding that's literally in between the 2 windows on each side that's about a 1-2 inches thick. I've tried looking everywhere, so if you could help. I'd be very greatful.
Ps it's part 75761a
Ps it's part 75761a
#109
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
i have a sub in my car that i put in. but i dont have a remote turn on line. i do but for some reason it stays at 12v after i put everything back togther. before i used a multi meter to test the wire and it would show 0. i am guesing it because my postive lead and rto are too close. and so what im asking is there another wire i can tap into from the factory amp. btw i have a 2008 lexus gs350 awd w/ navi but w/o mark levinson.
Everything else audio related in the car is stock, it sounds like?
First off, so long as wires are properly insulated, power will not transfer from one to the other (except in certain situations, which will not occur in a car). Even if it did, it wouldn't be the full 12 volts required at the remote turn on lead... Couple things could have happened - sometimes when wiring, a single strand of copper from inside one of the wires crosses from the remote turn on lead to the +12v battery lead... the other thing that could be - your wire was not truly switched, but is +12v all the time...
I do not have a wiring diagram handy for your car, but I am sure one of the factory amp wires has a remote turn on lead you can tap in to. The other option is to probe inside the fuse box for a fuse that is switched on and off with the ignition - some will be, some will not. Once you find the switched power source, run another remote turn on lead to your amp...
Last but not least - is the amp working properly? Perhaps something is wrong with the amp causing it to be on all the time, regardless of the remote wire...
#110
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DC
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Hello I have a LS400 with 215k miles.
My cel came on so I replaced the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, timing belt and water pump. I was receiving codes p0171, 0300, 0301, 0303, 0305, 0307, 1346, and 1349. I then went ahead and changed coils 1, 3, 5, and 7 but still majority of the same codes still appear except for 1346 & 0171 but now p0306 also comes up. I was thinking to change the ocv and check the filter but with this new misfire I'm not sure what's going on. I am a struggling student and in need of some expert advice
My cel came on so I replaced the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, timing belt and water pump. I was receiving codes p0171, 0300, 0301, 0303, 0305, 0307, 1346, and 1349. I then went ahead and changed coils 1, 3, 5, and 7 but still majority of the same codes still appear except for 1346 & 0171 but now p0306 also comes up. I was thinking to change the ocv and check the filter but with this new misfire I'm not sure what's going on. I am a struggling student and in need of some expert advice
#112
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
That is a lot of codes... Too many for me to not at least start by thinking they are all related... on my mobile right now - what year of car? I would start by checking timing... If its not that, next intuition says something terribly wrong in the wiring harness or ECM...
Check cam timing and get back to us...
Check cam timing and get back to us...
#114
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
cam timing and vvti system timing are a most likely cause, it sounds like...
definitely should have looked in to getting it fixed right the first time instead of just throwing parts at it...
#115
ok i had a question...so as you know it gets very busy in city during peak hours and lots of stop n go. So in order to (i guess) save as much gas as possible heres what i have being doing :
1) On a stop/red sign or when i m idling for sometime (due to traffic back up or accident) i put the shift into Neutral mode and when the traffic resumes i put in on Drive and i keep on doing it until i find that all is cleared and the traffic is flowing
2) Theres a section of road (not sure how long) that is downhill , so as i m approaching it i again put the shift into Neutral mode and let it "glide" thru the downhill road. And offcourse shifting back into Drive mode once the road flattens out
So my question is all this shifting into Neutral to Drive and vice versa ..Is that anyway harming the transmission..or any engine part in anyway..Or is it a good thing ??.. Offcourse i dont do it every second or so..but do it smoothly and hopefully in timied manner..
my car is 2000es300 and has about 100,662 miles onit..and i think transmission fluid was flushed once..
1) On a stop/red sign or when i m idling for sometime (due to traffic back up or accident) i put the shift into Neutral mode and when the traffic resumes i put in on Drive and i keep on doing it until i find that all is cleared and the traffic is flowing
2) Theres a section of road (not sure how long) that is downhill , so as i m approaching it i again put the shift into Neutral mode and let it "glide" thru the downhill road. And offcourse shifting back into Drive mode once the road flattens out
So my question is all this shifting into Neutral to Drive and vice versa ..Is that anyway harming the transmission..or any engine part in anyway..Or is it a good thing ??.. Offcourse i dont do it every second or so..but do it smoothly and hopefully in timied manner..
my car is 2000es300 and has about 100,662 miles onit..and i think transmission fluid was flushed once..
#116
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
ok i had a question...so as you know it gets very busy in city during peak hours and lots of stop n go. So in order to (i guess) save as much gas as possible heres what i have being doing :
1) On a stop/red sign or when i m idling for sometime (due to traffic back up or accident) i put the shift into Neutral mode and when the traffic resumes i put in on Drive and i keep on doing it until i find that all is cleared and the traffic is flowing
2) Theres a section of road (not sure how long) that is downhill , so as i m approaching it i again put the shift into Neutral mode and let it "glide" thru the downhill road. And offcourse shifting back into Drive mode once the road flattens out
So my question is all this shifting into Neutral to Drive and vice versa ..Is that anyway harming the transmission..or any engine part in anyway..Or is it a good thing ??.. Offcourse i dont do it every second or so..but do it smoothly and hopefully in timied manner..
my car is 2000es300 and has about 100,662 miles onit..and i think transmission fluid was flushed once..
1) On a stop/red sign or when i m idling for sometime (due to traffic back up or accident) i put the shift into Neutral mode and when the traffic resumes i put in on Drive and i keep on doing it until i find that all is cleared and the traffic is flowing
2) Theres a section of road (not sure how long) that is downhill , so as i m approaching it i again put the shift into Neutral mode and let it "glide" thru the downhill road. And offcourse shifting back into Drive mode once the road flattens out
So my question is all this shifting into Neutral to Drive and vice versa ..Is that anyway harming the transmission..or any engine part in anyway..Or is it a good thing ??.. Offcourse i dont do it every second or so..but do it smoothly and hopefully in timied manner..
my car is 2000es300 and has about 100,662 miles onit..and i think transmission fluid was flushed once..
Sitting at a stop light, well, hard to say whether it is helping fuel mileage or not... perhaps I'll datalog some stops and see how much fuel is used either way over a certain period of time...
it s not hurting the transmission at all either way...
#119
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
The high vacuum reading is because of the higher engine speed upon deceleration pulling vacuum against the now closed throttle plate. You could still inject fuel and get vacuum, I can prove it with my emanage if you don't believe me.
#120
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
On Toyota based cars, the most common reason for those codes is a failure in the purge solenoid - the solenoid responsible for venting vapor from the tank into the intake manifold to be burned with the intake charge...
I will check the exact codes tomorrow for a little more info...