Oil change flap
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 40
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From: MD
Oil change flap
I have about 1200 miles on the new LS430 and changed the oil filter so I could see how the engine is. I removed about 14 little screws holding the plastic cover and found the oil filter and it was a cinch to change. However after doing this, I see that there is a flap that you might be able to change the filter without removing the plastic cover.
My question, does it get oil all over the cover or does the oil drain ok?
Secondly, the first screw I tried to remove, spun the plastic retainer and I had to take a pair of needle nose pliars to hold the top to remove the screw. Went to my local Toyota dealer and no joy. So do these plastic retainers break a lot, or did I just have one that the factory over tightened? Should I be buying them by the gross?
My question, does it get oil all over the cover or does the oil drain ok?
Secondly, the first screw I tried to remove, spun the plastic retainer and I had to take a pair of needle nose pliars to hold the top to remove the screw. Went to my local Toyota dealer and no joy. So do these plastic retainers break a lot, or did I just have one that the factory over tightened? Should I be buying them by the gross?
Driver
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 137
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by shaloo
I have about 1200 miles on the new LS430 and changed the oil filter so I could see how the engine is. I removed about 14 little screws holding the plastic cover and found the oil filter and it was a cinch to change. However after doing this, I see that there is a flap that you might be able to change the filter without removing the plastic cover.
My question, does it get oil all over the cover or does the oil drain ok?
Secondly, the first screw I tried to remove, spun the plastic retainer and I had to take a pair of needle nose pliars to hold the top to remove the screw. Went to my local Toyota dealer and no joy. So do these plastic retainers break a lot, or did I just have one that the factory over tightened? Should I be buying them by the gross?
My question, does it get oil all over the cover or does the oil drain ok?
Secondly, the first screw I tried to remove, spun the plastic retainer and I had to take a pair of needle nose pliars to hold the top to remove the screw. Went to my local Toyota dealer and no joy. So do these plastic retainers break a lot, or did I just have one that the factory over tightened? Should I be buying them by the gross?
If you have spun screws, you can get the new plastic retainers, or you can use a little bit of teflon tape. The screws need only be snug , not tight.
PS: I thought I was the only lunatic owing such a great car and crawling under it, but apprently not! Enjoy the total ownership expereince!
Lexus Champion
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 10
From: Arizona
A sixteenth (1/16) turn after finger tight is good for the cooling pan bolts. Whether it is in a retainer or into the steel sub-frame.
Any tighter, and you risk cracking the plastic cooling panel, around the mounting holes. I coat the bolts with axle grease prior to reinstalling, in hope of preventing future rusting.
If your measuring - 8 "Inch" pounds tight is plenty.
Yours were installed with an air tool; this breaks out the retainers. The tools are fast, time is money.
Takes too long with a screwdriver type 10mm nut driver. Then, I like to take the time to feel the threads for binds or cross threading.
Any tighter, and you risk cracking the plastic cooling panel, around the mounting holes. I coat the bolts with axle grease prior to reinstalling, in hope of preventing future rusting.
If your measuring - 8 "Inch" pounds tight is plenty.
Yours were installed with an air tool; this breaks out the retainers. The tools are fast, time is money.
Takes too long with a screwdriver type 10mm nut driver. Then, I like to take the time to feel the threads for binds or cross threading.
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