barking/squawking is usually due to couple of air bubbles trapped in the RED line

 

I'm living outside of US, in Russia, so I bought it via local platform, but I believe it came from Middle East.

 

Lexus installed 44050-50170 for me but when I looked under the hood, it shows 44510-50140.

Is this correct? I have another mechanic from a lexus Indy shop that told me I got shammed. Can anyone confirm? Photo was taken 5 days after it was installed.

 

That's the original part number, the 170 is the updated one

 

I’m confused. How do you know that the 44510-50140 is the 50170? Is the body that corroded new?

 

50170 is the supercession of the original 140 number part, it's not the same part but is cross compatible. They probably put a new old stock 140 in the car, hopefully it's not a used part.

 

44510-50140 is a sub-assembly number, you will not find it in any Lexus catalog. 50170 can be located but there is no compatibility details. Toyota/Lexus can be very weird sometimes.

 

Keep telling them haha. Thanks bro, finally some sanity here. That sticker is not a part number but a SUB-ASSY number, that is NOT part of electronic part catalog. I have three new units from toyota, in box, all three boxes have different part numbers (44050-50110 - direct factory for 2010 awd 460/600; 44050-50130 - OLDER part for 2008, my old stock; 04003-MAGIC - latest UPDATED 'TSB' replacement) on shipping boxes ("ECB2.5L OIL"), BUT every last one of them got 44_510_-50110 on the SUB-ASSEMBLY.
Almost lost my ... wooosaaaaahhh

 

Boykie, correct me if I am wrong but it seems that correct part number is defined by the "index" next to the bar code. I have seen "G", "L" and "Y", and they do not seem to be interchangeable.

 

Correct, but I can't vouch. Yes, there seem to be some relationship here. But honestly I tried to build an excel sheet some time ago but abandoned the idea. I should have some pics stored on my laptop, and I will recheck the units I have when I'm back at work. Would be neat tho, if that letter is definitive!
ADD: Found 1! It's 44050-50110 on the box, 44510-50090 on the sticker, L letter (I remember this one - it was 2011 460 AWD, direct from toyota, current stock. NOT UPDATED one).
Found 2: 44050-50130 on the box, 44510-50070 on the sticker, G letter
Found 3: no box but I'm guessing it's 44050-50110, 44510-50090 on sticker again, D letter. This one is from 2016 swb rwd car.
Found 4: no box, 44_510_-50130 sticker, Z letter, no pedigree. not to be confused with 44_050_-50130
Found moar (a curveball): no box, 44510-50100 on the sticker, M letter. Claims to be from 600hL
Found bad thing: the magic 04003-magic on the box, 44510-50090, L letter.. Bummer
So, anyone willing to play this numberwang game with tmc - be my guest.
Also, FWIW I've personally never saw anything **140. Never. Isn't that, like, from Tundra??? - that was my first reaction to that pic...
Stand corrected here (said the man in orthopedic shoes) - it appears to be early 06-07 unit. Y letter.
At this point letter theory doesn't hold water sadly...

PS. This guesswork is what I hated the most when dealing with adding AHB system. Cos guess what. AFS+Bracket = one number. AFS without bracket (ebay etc) = different number, not in catalog. Yay. Got few gray hairs building THAT excel table. It's done tho.

 

Oh okay, yeah no **** it's the sub assembly including everything. Do the dealers not swap out the entire thing? Are they only replacing the valve block?

Why would you not replace the motor as well? If the motor has been running far more than designed due to a internal leak I would want it to be replaced as well. Same with the accumulator since I've never seen an application wheren those last forever.

Just give the full part number for 04003-45450, why are you not just typing the whole thing out?

 

I believe, 04003-45450 is an internal number and it was designed for recall purposes. The part number (inside the box) is 44050-50110 with 44510-50090 sub-assembly.

 

Here are the actual, real part numbers for ONLY the blocks depending on what car you have. Sub assembly numbers are included as well but are not actually important if you only want the blocks.



I fail to understand what the complexity here is? Different cars/drives/wheel bases will have a different subassembly numbers so that there is body code separation just like in German cars. Actual electrical parts are per car and are a separate number as shown above

 

By the way, 04003-45450 means that the box has a brake actuator with brake fluid included.

 

Correct. You can also buy an actuator only but this number is easy to track down an actually new unit.

I'm getting very close to making a new master thread on this brake system. I would explain exactly how it works, what usually fails, how to actually bleed it to make sure nothing remains, and explanation of the chassis codes and supercession vs the actual part number.

The sub-assembly sticker just lets you know what car that ENTIRE brake system was from, aka SWB, LWB, 600 etc and it's not the part number of the valve block and it's controller (the silver metal box with the lines leading into it and the black box with connector respectively)

The silver part is what nearly always fails at the internal seal seats, the pump generally doesn't die unless you are a moron and keep driving on it until it burns out. The accumulator also doesn't appreciate being repeatedly zeroed out from a valve sticking/failing to seat. The silver part has a good number of electrically fired valves that hold back a few thousand PSI that are opened on command of the pedal sensor OR VSC trying to correct the cars line vs steering angle and yaw sensor. It can be fired without inputs from the driver.

The failure is a result of corrosion from old fluid disrupting the valve seats. If they can't close, can't close quickly, or open/close incorrectly pressure will never build, fall off too quickly, or be unable to be directed as required.

Do not use any fluid other than stock type changed aggressively, CORRECTLY, on a rigid two year or less interval or ESI6 type fluid. I personally use ESI6 since it has far better water rejection and lubrictaing properties on top of being a great corrosion inhibiter. However that's your choice to make.