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I tried so many things that its possible I have the events out of sequence too, so after I got success on the initial gyro/accelerometer calibration, I might have gone into the fake brake bleeding before trying to recalibrate the linear solenoid valve. What I can tell you is that it was a combination of the 4 functions:
1. Reset Memory
2. Test Mode => Calibrate stabilization (gyros and accelerometers), where it instructs you to keep the car level and not touch anything for several seconds
3. Pseudo-Brake Bleed procedure where you pump the brakes when instructed to do so but don't bother opening bleeder valves
4. Calibrate the Linear Solenoid Valve
and its critical that you see both the ABS and VCS lights flashing fast, not one faster than the other, both have to be same speed. If you don't see that on steps 2 and 4, then something didn't go right.
Good Luck and hopefully, someone will figure out exactly the right sequence so that nobody else ever has to waste an hour gyrating around the scan tool hoping to get lucky!
You beautiful bastard, going into test mode saved my day!!
After changing calipers I tried to get the air out of them and the actuator and tried to calibrate the solenoid afterwards.
I couldn't use actuator removed or calibrate linear solenoid after resetting memory until I hit test mode and calibrated some array of sensors.
Afterwards I was able to get all tests to pass and am still rocking my original part number ending 70 brake actuator assembly.
I did the dry run of "actuator has been removed" procedure but I didn't disconnect cables from "battery booster" or whatever its called on there. I still can't shake these two c1345 and 1256. Where do I find the "brake booster" or whatever they call it?
Hello all. Lots of great posts in here after scanning. I may have missed it, but is it 100% certain that the actuator will fail if both C1364 and C1264 are thrown? I've gotten zero symptoms prior to this. No excessive barking, hard brake pedal, or other unusual behavior. I had the codes happen two days ago, and I just started the car for the first time a moment ago. The codes did not appear this time. Thoughts?
Hello all. Lots of great posts in here after scanning. I may have missed it, but is it 100% certain that the actuator will fail if both C1364 and C1264 are thrown? I've gotten zero symptoms prior to this. No excessive barking, hard brake pedal, or other unusual behavior. I had the codes happen two days ago, and I just started the car for the first time a moment ago. The codes did not appear this time. Thoughts?
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Is it 100% certain that the actuator will fail if both C1364 and C1264 are thrown? If by "fail" you meant "damaged", no. It is not 100% certain that the brake actuator is damaged or damaged beyond rescue. C1364 and C1264 are most likely caused by dirty brake fluid. You may do a thorough brake bleeding with Techstream (a must) with the "Actuator Has Been Removed" procedure. The clean fresh brake fluid MAY flush out little debris and particles along with the old brake fluid. If your brake actuator is not damaged, you MAY revive the functionality of your brake actuator.
The best way to avoid having C1346 and C1264 codes on LS460 is to faithfully replace the brake fluid with Techstream every two years, by using the "Usual Air Bleeding" procedure. This ensures that clean brake fluid keeps the brake actuator functioning properly.
Is it 100% certain that the actuator will fail if both C1364 and C1264 are thrown? If by "fail" you meant "damaged", no. It is not 100% certain that the brake actuator is damaged or damaged beyond rescue. C1364 and C1264 are most likely caused by dirty brake fluid. You may do a thorough brake bleeding with Techstream (a must) with the "Actuator Has Been Removed" procedure. The clean fresh brake fluid MAY flush out little debris and particles along with the old brake fluid. If your brake actuator is not damaged, you MAY revive the functionality of your brake actuator.
The best way to avoid having C1346 and C1264 codes on LS460 is to faithfully replace the brake fluid with Techstream every two years, by using the "Usual Air Bleeding" procedure. This ensures that clean brake fluid keeps the brake actuator functioning properly.
Just confirming, the valve responsible for keeping (but losing in my case) the fluid pressure in the Brake Actuator is in fact inside the actuator itself and not part of the Accumulator assembly.
Is this correct?
NEED TO RUN THE TEST MODE first..then it your able to do valve offset and it clears the codes!!!
I'm not able to make it through either Test mode or Valve Offset before the blinking lights stop with a harder clunk. I think my case is the actuator doesn't meet certain parameters during test or valve offset and the computer throws it's hands up.
lots of good information here, I read through the thread but I still have a few questions if any one could help me out here.
My case:
-2007 LS460 w/99k miles
-Brake fluid flush done 2 years ago
-Car sat for a few months as I was driving my company car, battery died completely, had to get it boosted a few days ago.
-Car drove fine the day it was boosted
-Drove it again yesterday and had the abs/vsc/brake issues
-Brakes power decreased significantly, and it started priming every few seconds (never had it do that before)
My question is:
-Is it actually the actuator that went bad, since I had a dead battery, is it possible that caused issues with the braking system?
-Usually there are symptoms with a degrading actuator (increased priming intervals, dashlights coming in and out again etc), but for me it was all normal before my battery died, and even after I boosted the car, it was all normal (stereo needed a few reboots).
-Is there anyway to reset the braking system without a brake job with brake bleed etc to test it? Just in case it's caused by my battery and not the actuator itself?
I attached my codes below, I tried to clear the codes, and everything cleared (for now), except the low accumulator pressure (C1256) and priming code (C1252)
Last edited by mikemc12; Mar 19, 2025 at 07:23 PM.
lots of good information here, I read through the thread but I still have a few questions if any one could help me out here.
My case:
-2007 LS460 w/99k miles
-Brake fluid flush done 2 years ago
-Car sat for a few months as I was driving my company car, battery died completely, had to get it boosted a few days ago.
-Car drove fine the day it was boosted
-Drove it again yesterday and had the abs/vsc/brake issues
-Brakes power decreased significantly, and it started priming every few seconds (never had it do that before)
My question is:
-Is it actually the actuator that went bad, since I had a dead battery, is it possible that caused issues with the braking system?
-Usually there are symptoms with a degrading actuator (increased priming intervals, dashlights coming in and out again etc), but for me it was all normal before my battery died, and even after I boosted the car, it was all normal (stereo needed a few reboots).
-Is there anyway to reset the braking system without a brake job with brake bleed etc to test it? Just in case it's caused by my battery and not the actuator itself?
I attached my codes below, I tried to clear the codes, and everything cleared (for now), except the low accumulator pressure (C1256) and priming code (C1252)
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Here are my suggestions:
LS460 brake actuator is sensitive to low/poor battery capacity. Lower voltage/capacity of the battery may trigger various DTC's. So, charge your battery to full capacity, and then try to clear the two DTCs.
If that doesn't work, since you have Techstream, follow the two trouble-shooting procedures in the attachments below to check if the actuator valves are within factory voltage or om normal range. If any of the valve is not in range, then you'll know where it is wrong within the actuator or accumulator.
Symptom: The dash instrument display panel shows a yellow “!” light with the white warning message: “Brake Malfunction” or “Check VSC System” or “Check Brake System”, “Stop the vehicle immediately in a safe Place. Call a dealer”. The brake pedal feels hard and stiff. The photo below shows the actual warning messages (photo posted by CL Member Sleeper416).
Cause of the symptom: This is a common problem related to LS460 brake system. It could be triggered by any bad brake component, such as a water soaked brake sensor wire, a broken brake fluid tube, a broken brake caliper seal, or even worse, a bad brake actuator. In my case, it was triggered by an accidental operational error on my part. Last Sunday, I performed a full brake fluid bleeding procedure with Techstream on my 2008 LS460. When I was bleeding the third brake caliper (the rear right brake), my car battery died (lesson learned here). At this point, the brake actuator solenoid for the rear right brake caliper was still open. I removed the dead battery from my LS460 and put in a good one from another car. When I pressed the start button, the dash display panel showed the above error message. I was able to start my car, but the brake pedal felt hard and stiff.
Solution: Use Techstream to perform the following two procedures. Please note that this solution is only good for clearing the warning message when you brake system hardware is good. If you have a bad brake part (e.g., a bad actuator or broken brake tube), after your have cleared the warning message, it will come back soon. You'll need to replace the bad brake part first and then do a brake bleed procedure to clear the warning message, which is not more difficult but is a different process. I will post another tutorial for bleeding LS460 brake system when I have some time.
1) Reset Memory, and
2) Linear Valve Offset Calibration
Steps of performing these two procedures:
1. Connect Techstream to the OBDII port under the dash.
2. Select “ABS/VSC/TRAC” menu and double click it (or click the arrow at the right bottom of the screen).
3. Select “Utility” button on the left of the screen and double click “Reset Memory” menu (or click the arrow at the right bottom of the screen).
4. Click “Next” on the screen below.
5. Click “Next” on the screen to confirm resetting memory.
6. When the reset memory procedure is completed, click “Exit” to go back to the Utility Selection Menu shown below. Select “ECB Utility” and double click it to go to ECB Utility menu.
7. On the ECB Utility Menu, select “Linear Valve Offset”, and click “Next”.
8. Click “Next” on the subsequent two screens to confirm the linear valve offset procedure. Then, the final confirmation screen shows up. Click “Next” to begin the linear valve offset.
9. The linear valve offset procedure runs for 120 seconds. During this process, DO NOT press the brake pedal. When the linear valve offset procedure is completed, press “Exit”. Then, go to the “Trouble Codes” menu. There should be no error codes. If there are error codes, repeat the reset memory and linear valve offset procedures. When there are no error codes in the “Trouble Codes” menu, exit Techstream. Start the engine and the “Brake Malfunction”, “Check Brake System”, “Check VSC System” error message should disappear from the dash display panel. Test-drive the car to make sure that the brake system functions normally. Congratulations. You have successfully restored the brake system. Other DIY Instructions:
If your battery died when you were in the middle of performing the "linear solenoid valve offset" procedure, you would have two new brake trouble codes: C1256 (accumulator low pressure) and C1345 (Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Undone). Go to Posting #98 of this thread for the instruction to clear Codes C1256 and C1345.
Instruction to bleed the brake actuator, if you want to purge air out of the brake actuator assembly, or when you replace the brake actuator, of when your brake actuator is making noises, see the PDF file in Posting #7 of this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...l#post10762895
Hopefully you can help me. I have a DTC C1377 (Capacitor) on my 2010 LS460L. I've gone through and checked all fuses, checked connectors at the brake supply assembly and parking brake controller as well as changed out both units. I just sourced the ABS relays just in case I should have them in a week. I followed your step-by-step tutorial to the T! Once all is complete the code still remains. I'm using version 18.00.008. Side note: Pushing the parking brake would engage but not disengage prior to changing out the Parking Brake controller. I would have to use Techstream to disengage it on the rare occasion it was ever pushed. Is there something that I'm missing before escalating to the BIG 2 replacements? Not much on this topic that I could find... threads start then go dead with no solutions.
Hopefully you can help me. I have a DTC C1377 (Capacitor) on my 2010 LS460L. I've gone through and checked all fuses, checked connectors at the brake supply assembly and parking brake controller as well as changed out both units. I just sourced the ABS relays just in case I should have them in a week. I followed your step-by-step tutorial to the T! Once all is complete the code still remains. I'm using version 18.00.008. Side note: Pushing the parking brake would engage but not disengage prior to changing out the Parking Brake controller. I would have to use Techstream to disengage it on the rare occasion it was ever pushed. Is there something that I'm missing before escalating to the BIG 2 replacements? Not much on this topic that I could find... threads start then go dead with no solutions.
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Follow the procedure in the attached file "DTC_1377.pdf" to trouble-shoot the issue
Use the procedure in the attached file "Check_freeze_frame_data.pdf" to determine the repair action
If needed, use the procedure in the attached file "Replace_brake_control_power_supply.pdf" to replace the power supply.