Tutorial LS460: Clear “Brake Malfunction, Check VSC System” Dash Error Messages
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 413
Likes: 257
From: California
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: FL
Hi yyymmm31 i wan to provided a update on my Lexus actuator problem, i took the car to a Lexus shop not the dealer, the mechanic found that my new actuator was bad, the skid control unit was bad, and the mtr 1 relay junction box was also bad, the new actuator cost 1200, junction box 300, I found a use ABS TRC VSC TRACTION CONTROL SKID MODULE for 225 that works fine. total 3500 including labor, I am trying to recoup 1000 form this vendor https://www.oemvehicleparts.com/ without any luck or response, please don't buy anything from this vendor the don't reply and the reviews are bad on line, should had check the online review or pay the extra 200 from the local dealer. I did spoke with the dealer that send me the part and I will be contacting the dealer manager. the car brake system is working great.
I have another question, when I apply the gas pedal I get a vibration noise which I was hoping to be related to the brake actuator, but is still doing it, when I release the gas stops. I going to have the car transmission oil flush. if you have any information about these issues pleases let me know.
My apology it took so long to reply I was out of the country's working.
Thanks
I have another question, when I apply the gas pedal I get a vibration noise which I was hoping to be related to the brake actuator, but is still doing it, when I release the gas stops. I going to have the car transmission oil flush. if you have any information about these issues pleases let me know.
My apology it took so long to reply I was out of the country's working.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 413
Likes: 257
From: California
Hi yyymmm31 i wan to provided a update on my Lexus actuator problem, i took the car to a Lexus shop not the dealer, the mechanic found that my new actuator was bad, the skid control unit was bad, and the mtr 1 relay junction box was also bad, the new actuator cost 1200, junction box 300, I found a use ABS TRC VSC TRACTION CONTROL SKID MODULE for 225 that works fine. total 3500 including labor, I am trying to recoup 1000 form this vendor https://www.oemvehicleparts.com/ without any luck or response, please don't buy anything from this vendor the don't reply and the reviews are bad on line, should had check the online review or pay the extra 200 from the local dealer. I did spoke with the dealer that send me the part and I will be contacting the dealer manager. the car brake system is working great.
I have another question, when I apply the gas pedal I get a vibration noise which I was hoping to be related to the brake actuator, but is still doing it, when I release the gas stops. I going to have the car transmission oil flush. if you have any information about these issues pleases let me know.
My apology it took so long to reply I was out of the country's working.
Thanks
I have another question, when I apply the gas pedal I get a vibration noise which I was hoping to be related to the brake actuator, but is still doing it, when I release the gas stops. I going to have the car transmission oil flush. if you have any information about these issues pleases let me know.
My apology it took so long to reply I was out of the country's working.
Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and lessons learned. Sorry to hear that the vendor didn't respond to your request about the bad new brake actuator. It looks that you may not be able to get a refund from this vendor for the bad brake actuator. That's unfortunate. On the positive side, your car's brake problem is solved and you can enjoy driving your car again. Regarding your question about vibration noise, without hearing it, it's difficult for me to offer a precise solution. On 2007-12 LS460, the most common causes for vibration noises when pressing the gas pedal or pressing the brake pedal are worn front control arm bushings and worn stabilizer bar bushings or worn stabilizer bar link ends. You may trouble-shoot the problem beginning with control arms, stabilizer bar bushings and stabilizer bar end links. Additionally, wobbled rotors and missing anti-noise brake shims/springs also create noises when speeding up or stopping the car. These are relatively easy DIY items to check and repair.
-----
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 3
From: London
Hi @yyymmm31 and big thank you for the great post. 
Today I experienced the exact same symptoms you've described in your initial #1 post after I replaced and bled (without Techstream) driver side seized calliper: Very firm brake pedal, ABS/Brake warning and beeping noise if I try to drive the car. It also feels like nothing brake related is working properly.
All I did after replacing the calliper was having a friend pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while the car was running, then I opened the bleeding valve half turn, let it run until there was no air in the fluid, then closed the valve. Topped up the brake fluid (it had gone down to between max and min level) and did the same procedure again just in case but there was no more air so I quickly closed the valve.
After reading this post today, I ordered Techstream cable/software to run the re-calibrating procedure and remove the error codes.
My question is, do you think the way I bled the brake might have caused any damage to those expensive parts like ABS actuator/Brake booster?
Today I experienced the exact same symptoms you've described in your initial #1 post after I replaced and bled (without Techstream) driver side seized calliper: Very firm brake pedal, ABS/Brake warning and beeping noise if I try to drive the car. It also feels like nothing brake related is working properly.
All I did after replacing the calliper was having a friend pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while the car was running, then I opened the bleeding valve half turn, let it run until there was no air in the fluid, then closed the valve. Topped up the brake fluid (it had gone down to between max and min level) and did the same procedure again just in case but there was no more air so I quickly closed the valve.
After reading this post today, I ordered Techstream cable/software to run the re-calibrating procedure and remove the error codes.
My question is, do you think the way I bled the brake might have caused any damage to those expensive parts like ABS actuator/Brake booster?
Last edited by KikoUK; Jul 22, 2021 at 10:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 413
Likes: 257
From: California
Hi @yyymmm31 and big thank you for the great post.
Today I experienced the exact same symptoms you've described in your initial #1 post after I replaced and bled (without Techstream) driver side seized calliper: Very firm brake pedal, ABS/Brake warning and beeping noise if I try to drive the car. It also feels like nothing brake related is working properly.
All I did after replacing the calliper was having a friend pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while the car was running, then I opened the bleeding valve half turn, let it run until there was no air in the fluid, then closed the valve. Topped up the brake fluid (it had gone down to between max and min level) and did the same procedure again just in case but there was no more air so I quickly closed the valve.
After reading this post today, I ordered Techstream cable/software to run the re-calibrating procedure and remove the error codes.
My question is, do you think the way I bled the brake might have caused any damage to those expensive parts like ABS actuator/Brake booster?
Today I experienced the exact same symptoms you've described in your initial #1 post after I replaced and bled (without Techstream) driver side seized calliper: Very firm brake pedal, ABS/Brake warning and beeping noise if I try to drive the car. It also feels like nothing brake related is working properly.
All I did after replacing the calliper was having a friend pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while the car was running, then I opened the bleeding valve half turn, let it run until there was no air in the fluid, then closed the valve. Topped up the brake fluid (it had gone down to between max and min level) and did the same procedure again just in case but there was no more air so I quickly closed the valve.
After reading this post today, I ordered Techstream cable/software to run the re-calibrating procedure and remove the error codes.
My question is, do you think the way I bled the brake might have caused any damage to those expensive parts like ABS actuator/Brake booster?
I don't think you damaged your brake actuator/pump hardware from your description of bleeding the driver side front brake. However, I think that you'll need to re-do the bleeding of the driver side front brake with Techstream. Techstream is needed to properly bleed LS460 brakes.
------
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 3
From: London
-------
I don't think you damaged your brake actuator/pump hardware from your description of bleeding the driver side front brake. However, I think that you'll need to re-do the bleeding of the driver side front brake with Techstream. Techstream is needed to properly bleed LS460 brakes.
------
I don't think you damaged your brake actuator/pump hardware from your description of bleeding the driver side front brake. However, I think that you'll need to re-do the bleeding of the driver side front brake with Techstream. Techstream is needed to properly bleed LS460 brakes.
------
Yes, I was thinking of bleeding both front brakes once TIS arrives, in case air got trapped in the other front brake too and then run the procedure you've mentioned in post #1 to clear errors.
In hindsight, I should've read these forum topics in-depth before, rather than just watching youtube videos where people said that bleeding hybrid Lexus front brakes is the same as bleeding conventional brakes and you only need TIS for rear brake bleeding
So for anyone reading - you need TIS to bleed your Hybrid Lexus car front brakes!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 413
Likes: 257
From: California
Ah apologies, should've mention that my car is actually a 2013 RX450h and not a LS, but from what I've read around the forum the braking/hybrid systems are identical.
Yes, I was thinking of bleeding both front brakes once TIS arrives, in case air got trapped in the other front brake too and then run the procedure you've mentioned in post #1 to clear errors.
In hindsight, I should've read these forum topics in-depth before, rather than just watching youtube videos where people said that bleeding hybrid Lexus front brakes is the same as bleeding conventional brakes and you only need TIS for rear brake bleeding
So for anyone reading - you need TIS to bleed your Hybrid Lexus car front brakes!
Yes, I was thinking of bleeding both front brakes once TIS arrives, in case air got trapped in the other front brake too and then run the procedure you've mentioned in post #1 to clear errors.
In hindsight, I should've read these forum topics in-depth before, rather than just watching youtube videos where people said that bleeding hybrid Lexus front brakes is the same as bleeding conventional brakes and you only need TIS for rear brake bleeding
So for anyone reading - you need TIS to bleed your Hybrid Lexus car front brakes!
Yes, the procedure of bleeding hybrid RX400 with Techstream is similar to bleeding LS460. However, there is one key difference: With RX400, you only need to complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. Your problem will be solved after you complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. You DO NOT need to do the procedure (reset memory and recalibration) in my first post of this thread, because the reset memory and recalibration on a RX400 will most likely trigger trouble codes that will require a zero-calibration procedure (a bit complex) to get rid of the trouble codes. I learned this lesson from my prior experience. Here is a video of bleeding hybrid RX with Techstream for reference:
Last edited by yyymmm31; Jul 22, 2021 at 07:33 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 3
From: London
-----
Yes, the procedure of bleeding hybrid RX400 with Techstream is similar to bleeding LS460. However, there is one key difference: With RX400, you only need to complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. Your problem will be solved after you complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. You DO NOT need to do the procedure (reset memory and recalibration) in my first post of this thread, because the reset memory and recalibration on a RX400 will most likely trigger trouble codes that will require a zero-calibration procedure (a bit complex) to get rid of the trouble codes. I learned this lesson from my prior experience. Here is a video of bleeding hybrid RX with Techstream for reference:
https://youtu.be/yDdQir5xktU
----
Yes, the procedure of bleeding hybrid RX400 with Techstream is similar to bleeding LS460. However, there is one key difference: With RX400, you only need to complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. Your problem will be solved after you complete the bleeding procedure as shown on Techstream. You DO NOT need to do the procedure (reset memory and recalibration) in my first post of this thread, because the reset memory and recalibration on a RX400 will most likely trigger trouble codes that will require a zero-calibration procedure (a bit complex) to get rid of the trouble codes. I learned this lesson from my prior experience. Here is a video of bleeding hybrid RX with Techstream for reference:
https://youtu.be/yDdQir5xktU
----
Anyhow, so your suggestion is to just erase the error codes as shown in the video and run a normal bleeding of the front brakes, without resetting memory or calibrating?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 413
Likes: 257
From: California
The RX in this Youtube video is the older gen 2. My one is the facelifted gen 3 RX450h 2013. I'm not sure if that makes any difference.
Anyhow, so your suggestion is to just erase the error codes as shown in the video and run a normal bleeding of the front brakes, without resetting memory or calibrating?
Anyhow, so your suggestion is to just erase the error codes as shown in the video and run a normal bleeding of the front brakes, without resetting memory or calibrating?
Yes. I'd just clear the trouble codes and then run the usual bleeding procedure with Techstream to restore the normal functions of the brakes. If the problem is solved, there is no need to do anything further. Running reset memory and recalibration on a Lexus SUV may cause more trouble codes and may need to do a zero-point calibration to clear the trouble codes.
-------
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 3
From: London
Quick update in case someone else stumbles upon the same problem. I intentionally didn't report back straight after fixing the car as I wanted some time to pass, but after over a thousand miles, there are no issues and the fix was actually really easy once I got my cable and techstream software installed.
Once I scanned for errors, the only error present was C1342 - Hydraulic System Malfunction (FL). Cleared the error and car was back to normal straight away and hasn't had any issues since.
I'd like to also thank everyone who answered above and tried to help. Safe driving
Once I scanned for errors, the only error present was C1342 - Hydraulic System Malfunction (FL). Cleared the error and car was back to normal straight away and hasn't had any issues since.
I'd like to also thank everyone who answered above and tried to help. Safe driving
4th Gear
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
From: Florida
[QUOTE=yyymmm31;10258946]
My wife's 2008 LS460 had exactly the same problem when we changed the ABS module. The mechanics did their best but couldn't get the C1345 error to clear because it wasn't accepting the programming for the linear solenoid valve. They were ready to give up and tow the car to Lexus but I begged them to let me work on it and we solved it within an hour using the Autel Maxisys. I wish I would have written down exactly what I did, but it took a bunch of iterations and I suspect that the most important thing that I did right was in doing a "Reset Memory" before doing the Test Mode => calibrate the stabilization. In the first 4 or 5 times that I did this, it would either fail to flash the ABS and VCS lights, or it would flash ABS fast but VCS flashed slow, which still means it didn't calibrate. The time I finally saw both flash fast, I suspected that something was finally going our way.
After that, I went back into the calibration for the linear solenoid valve that takes 120 seconds. This also flashed both lights fast, which again confirmed that I was likely on a path to success. I probably should have tried to reset the DTCs right then and there, but instead I commanded it to do the brake bleeding procedure even though I wasn't really going to open any bleeder valves. I did pump the brakes 4 times for each wheel as it instructed, but my only goal in running that was to get brake fluid moving around in the new actuator in case that had anything to do with why it wasn't working in the past. For all I know, that fake bleeding was completely unnecessary, but maybe it made the difference, I really don't know. After I did that, I was able to reset the codes and all ABS/VCS/TRAC codes were clear!
I tried so many things that its possible I have the events out of sequence too, so after I got success on the initial gyro/accelerometer calibration, I might have gone into the fake brake bleeding before trying to recalibrate the linear solenoid valve. What I can tell you is that it was a combination of the 4 functions:
1. Reset Memory
2. Test Mode => Calibrate stabilization (gyros and accelerometers), where it instructs you to keep the car level and not touch anything for several seconds
3. Pseudo-Brake Bleed procedure where you pump the brakes when instructed to do so but don't bother opening bleeder valves
4. Calibrate the Linear Solenoid Valve
and its critical that you see both the ABS and VCS lights flashing fast, not one faster than the other, both have to be same speed. If you don't see that on steps 2 and 4, then something didn't go right.
Good Luck and hopefully, someone will figure out exactly the right sequence so that nobody else ever has to waste an hour gyrating around the scan tool hoping to get lucky!
----
I meant to run Test Mode on ABS/VSC/TRAC => Utility => Test Mode screen. If you can't complete Test Mode, I don't think that re-running Reset Memory and Linear Value Offset will help, because you have a persistent C1345 error. There could be either some hardware issue or somehow Techstream is not fully communicating with your car. You may try powering off the car for 30 minutes, and then re-running Test Mode. If you can run it successfully, then run Reset Memory and Linear Value Offset. As I mentioned earlier, it is important to select the right car manufacturer date in Techstream based on the driver's door label. Another way to try it is to use Version 10 or 13 Techstream. For older LS 460 cars, I found that Version 10 Techstream is more reliable. I used Version 12 a couple of times but didn't like it as some functions were missing. I also used Version 13 on newer Lexus cars and it seems to be stable and consistent.
---
I meant to run Test Mode on ABS/VSC/TRAC => Utility => Test Mode screen. If you can't complete Test Mode, I don't think that re-running Reset Memory and Linear Value Offset will help, because you have a persistent C1345 error. There could be either some hardware issue or somehow Techstream is not fully communicating with your car. You may try powering off the car for 30 minutes, and then re-running Test Mode. If you can run it successfully, then run Reset Memory and Linear Value Offset. As I mentioned earlier, it is important to select the right car manufacturer date in Techstream based on the driver's door label. Another way to try it is to use Version 10 or 13 Techstream. For older LS 460 cars, I found that Version 10 Techstream is more reliable. I used Version 12 a couple of times but didn't like it as some functions were missing. I also used Version 13 on newer Lexus cars and it seems to be stable and consistent.
---
After that, I went back into the calibration for the linear solenoid valve that takes 120 seconds. This also flashed both lights fast, which again confirmed that I was likely on a path to success. I probably should have tried to reset the DTCs right then and there, but instead I commanded it to do the brake bleeding procedure even though I wasn't really going to open any bleeder valves. I did pump the brakes 4 times for each wheel as it instructed, but my only goal in running that was to get brake fluid moving around in the new actuator in case that had anything to do with why it wasn't working in the past. For all I know, that fake bleeding was completely unnecessary, but maybe it made the difference, I really don't know. After I did that, I was able to reset the codes and all ABS/VCS/TRAC codes were clear!
I tried so many things that its possible I have the events out of sequence too, so after I got success on the initial gyro/accelerometer calibration, I might have gone into the fake brake bleeding before trying to recalibrate the linear solenoid valve. What I can tell you is that it was a combination of the 4 functions:
1. Reset Memory
2. Test Mode => Calibrate stabilization (gyros and accelerometers), where it instructs you to keep the car level and not touch anything for several seconds
3. Pseudo-Brake Bleed procedure where you pump the brakes when instructed to do so but don't bother opening bleeder valves
4. Calibrate the Linear Solenoid Valve
and its critical that you see both the ABS and VCS lights flashing fast, not one faster than the other, both have to be same speed. If you don't see that on steps 2 and 4, then something didn't go right.
Good Luck and hopefully, someone will figure out exactly the right sequence so that nobody else ever has to waste an hour gyrating around the scan tool hoping to get lucky!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Crimea
Hi everyone!
It's a quick update on my issue.
Eventually I have replaced a brake actuator. Installed the newest one part number 04003-45450 (found a pretty good deal for ~700USD brand new). There was a worry that it will not fit, as when I tried to check compatibility by VIN it never showed in the list of available parts. However it fit well. And the brakes are working fine now.
I have also replaced a harness connector as a preventive measure.
The only issue remained is a barking noise.
It doesn't appear each and every time but rather randomly sounds when getting to stop or starting from standstill.
Considering the only proper way to bleed the system after replacing the actuator is to use a "actuator has been removed" mode I doubt there is air trapped in the system.
I'll probably try to bleed a system once again just to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks yyymmm31 once again for starting this thread and for advises on part numbers.
It's a quick update on my issue.
Eventually I have replaced a brake actuator. Installed the newest one part number 04003-45450 (found a pretty good deal for ~700USD brand new). There was a worry that it will not fit, as when I tried to check compatibility by VIN it never showed in the list of available parts. However it fit well. And the brakes are working fine now.
I have also replaced a harness connector as a preventive measure.
The only issue remained is a barking noise.
It doesn't appear each and every time but rather randomly sounds when getting to stop or starting from standstill.
Considering the only proper way to bleed the system after replacing the actuator is to use a "actuator has been removed" mode I doubt there is air trapped in the system.
I'll probably try to bleed a system once again just to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks yyymmm31 once again for starting this thread and for advises on part numbers.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 4
From: FL
Hi everyone!
It's a quick update on my issue.
Eventually I have replaced a brake actuator. Installed the newest one part number 04003-45450 (found a pretty good deal for ~700USD brand new). There was a worry that it will not fit, as when I tried to check compatibility by VIN it never showed in the list of available parts. However it fit well. And the brakes are working fine now.
I have also replaced a harness connector as a preventive measure.
The only issue remained is a barking noise.
It doesn't appear each and every time but rather randomly sounds when getting to stop or starting from standstill.
Considering the only proper way to bleed the system after replacing the actuator is to use a "actuator has been removed" mode I doubt there is air trapped in the system.
I'll probably try to bleed a system once again just to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks yyymmm31 once again for starting this thread and for advises on part numbers.
It's a quick update on my issue.
Eventually I have replaced a brake actuator. Installed the newest one part number 04003-45450 (found a pretty good deal for ~700USD brand new). There was a worry that it will not fit, as when I tried to check compatibility by VIN it never showed in the list of available parts. However it fit well. And the brakes are working fine now.
I have also replaced a harness connector as a preventive measure.
The only issue remained is a barking noise.
It doesn't appear each and every time but rather randomly sounds when getting to stop or starting from standstill.
Considering the only proper way to bleed the system after replacing the actuator is to use a "actuator has been removed" mode I doubt there is air trapped in the system.
I'll probably try to bleed a system once again just to make sure everything is done right.
Thanks yyymmm31 once again for starting this thread and for advises on part numbers.