I will look into this today!

 

I want to ensure that I'm going down the right rabbit hole. The info code I should be following is 110, correct?

 

I want to ensure that I'm going down the right rabbit hole. The info code I should be following is 110, correct?

 

Thanks for the tips and doc yyymmm31! I got a battery charger a few days ago, so I can charge the battery to full to try and clear the codes and test the battery for battery health as well.

I am just wondering in order to clear the codes, do I need to perform the 'replaced abs acutator' steps in TS? I can't actually bleed my brakes atm at home (need a jack and I've never done the brakes before), I am just wondering do I attempt to to clear the codes using the steps ABS/VSC/TRAC -> Utility-> Brake Bleeding -> Actuator Replaced? Is it safe to perform if I don't open any bleeder valves etc?

Thanks in advance!

 

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To tc8510, yes you have code 110. You should check ABS Fuse circuit resistance (normally, it should be below 1om). If it's within the normal om range, you should check the brake power supply's voltage and om range, etc. to determine which component has a problem.
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To mikemc12, if your brake's hardware is good (i.e., no faulty accumulator or bad pump), running the "Brake Actuator Replaced" procedure MAY clear the DTC's. Yes, you can dry-run the this procedure (without opening the bleeders), except for the rear right wheel, if you have recently replaced the brake fluid and bled the brakes (that is, you know that you don't need to bleed air or replace the fluid). Just make sure that you battery is fully charged and in good condition. If you have a bad battery, you will most likely not be able to finish the whole procedure. Often, the procedure is stalled at the last step (calibrate the brake system) due to poor battery/power supply, which will cause more DTC's and will require the re-run of the whole procedure to revive the brake system.
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[QUOTE=yyymmm31;11886861]----
To tc8510, yes you have code 110. You should check ABS Fuse circuit resistance (normally, it should be below 1om). If it's within the normal om range, you should check the brake power supply's voltage and om range, etc. to determine which component has a problem.
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I checked the resistance at the connector. The issue found is that the S49-1 (OUT1) Body ground value is 0. It should be between 11 and 14 V. What would be the easiest route to fix without replacing the harness for that one wire?

 

[QUOTE=tc8510;11886908]----
Glad that you found the cause of the problem. Yes, you may fix the problem without replacing the harness as long as you know where the bad connection is. If the bad connection is only on the power supply connector, it's relatively easier. Just find a good power supply connector from a car junk yard for a friction of the cost of a brand new one and replace it. If the bad connection is down on the wires, you'll need to decide where to cut off the bad wires and need some creativity to solder the bad wires back together and then cover the soldered connections with with heat resisting tube(s). We are talking about the basic electrician's skills here.
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[QUOTE=yyymmm31;11887258]
Thank you!

 

I don’t know why I didn’t check this earlier, but my brake master cylinder is dry, what the hell.

I assume there must be a leak somewhere and that caused the low pressure.

Question is I’ve never seen any leaks on the garage floor.

 

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How do you know your brake master cylinder is dry? Are we talking about the same thing, the red circled component in my attached diagram?
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There is no place for the fluid in the reservoir to go other than outside the system if it was full and fully bled when you had it done 2 yrs ago but if you didn't notice until just recently chances are you never looked too hard at it then.
Did you look around the calipers for leaks from the bleeders? those are the only areas that should've been opened for a fluid flush with the exception of the reservoir cap.

 

..

 

So unfortunately i ran into the C1256 and Code C1345

i do not have a Tech stream but have a xtool d8, it seems to have all the screens everyone is discussing here.

I was planning on bleeding the brakes and followed these procedures
1) disconnect 2 connectors to brake accumulator
2) zero down
3) Disable ECB
3) then went to the Usual Air bleeding option
Before i started any actual bleeding it mentioned someone holding down the pedal so i gave up and clicked cancel without performing anything.

that's when i started getting the codes and ive tried looking at posts 61 and 98 to follow those steps but have had no luck. i had purchased a battery charger so i dont believe it has anything to do with the battery voltage.
when trying to use the actuator has been removed feature i always fail the bleeding procedure right after the "on the next screen solenoids (slrfr, slrfl, slrrr and slrrl) will be activated during the solenoid activation process, depress the brake pedal 30 times in 30 secs"

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

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The method of clearing DTC's C1256 and C1345 is described in Postings 61 and 98 of this thread. And the instruction is attached. You need Techstream (preferably Version 15 or above) to perform this procedure. Please note that the precondition is that your brake hardware is good (i.e., your accumulator and pump are functioning properly).
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I did follow the instructions in the two posts, when I choose actuator has been removed it brings me to a few steps to start the bleeding process, which I am not going to do, the third step is where it fails, it asks me to pump the brake 30 times in 30 seconds then says air bleeding failed