am using 15.10.029 yes i followed the procedure after bleeding i rest the memory and offset liner still code is there

 

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Your Techstream version is good. Did the the reset memory and linear offset procedures run as I described? In other words, did the reset memory and linear offset run successfully? Did you use Techsream to bleed your brake? I am trying to figure out what and where it went wrong.
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Yes i do it all i use brake actuator bleeding method to much air come from rear brake and after it finish ido reset memory and linear offset but code still there

 

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By successfully performing the reset memory and linear offset procedures, you proved that you don't have software issues. That is, Techstream can't do anything more for you at this point. The problem is somewhere in your car's hardware. Now, I'd do a thorough check of the brake hardware/components. Are all the brake hoses re-connected securely and correctly and are there any leaks anywhere in the brake system? Are the two accumulator power connectors re-connected securely? Etc. Do a through check and you'll find the hardware issue. Fix the hardware issue before resetting the brake memory and doing the linear offset again.
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Yes i check no leaks and wire is connected when i go to signal check and dtc clear the code 1346 disappeared again when ido the linear offset it shows the c1345 and c1346 i think I have bad abs actuator am confused cause problem come only after add and bleed the fluid
😅 I hope that I didn't do that if you know what is the confirmation code for bad abs actuator please let me know

 

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A bad brake actuator assembly usually gives plenty of audio indication before triggering any trouble codes. Typically, a degrading brake actuator assembly has popping/clicking sound. When you press the brake pedal, you often get a sudden shudder. Did you get any of these signs before you bled your brakes? Of course, there have been a few reports of sudden death of brake actuator without any of these signs. For what that's worth, at this point, I'd check the physical conditions of all the brake system components, connectors, etc. again. If all is good, disconnect the negative of the battery, wait for 10 minutes or so, reconnect the battery, and re-run the reset brake memory and linear offset procedures. If that still doesn't solve the problem, it's time to have your car checked by a Lexus specialist to determine which brake component is bad.
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Nothing is was perfect but the accumulator was working frequently i do it as a maintenance
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Hi, yyymmm31. Do you have any helpful tips for a GS450h brake actuator replacement? The dealer diagnosed it with an internal leak DTC C1391. I've cleared the code and did the bleeding procedure using techstream. The day I did the bleeding the actuator seemed fine. The brake motor would charge the system and stay off. A day later the brake motor was back to running almost continuously.

I've ordered a new actuator. I'm assuming replacing it is going to be similar to the LS actuator I replaced. I haven't found a "how to" for the gs450h.

 

the actuator almost leaks internally
yes it will be similar you should do some progress before you remove the actuator and after fix you should do bleeding by techstream or equal diagnosis tool

 

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Hi, Miket000. I'm not familiar with GS450h and can't offer specific advice. However, the general procedure for replacing brake actuators on 2007 or new Lexus cars (and most Toyota hybrid cars) is very similar. That is, disconnect the battery, replace the accumulator unit, use Techstream to bleed the actuator and brake system (select the "Brake Actuator was replaced" option in Techstream), and you should be fine. There are several Youtube videos about replacing actuators on LS460 and Toyota hybrid cars. You may watch them to get familiar with the general process of bleeding the actuator and brake system after replacing the brake accumulator. Good luck.
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Try using the procedure I listed above for "Actuator Replaced."

Make sure to have two people, one at each wheel that is bleeding, and to make sure you have enough fluid that is never runs dry.

 

I'm about to begin the "replaced accumulator' process after having done everything else suggested in this thread. (yyymmm its very kind of you to take the time to help so many out with this) First a few questions:

1. My actuator voltage measures between 3.39 and 3.55 but the voltage of m/c and m/c2 is 0. Is this an issue with the engine not running?
2. I performed the brake test whereby I turned the IG on but the engine off. I noticed a less than a .2 v decrease in the accumulator pressure. When pumping the brakes I do not hear the pump motor but the accumulator pressure does drop. When I bled all four brakes using techstream (version 14) upon opening the oil at the caliper, I heard a motor run which pushed a heavy stream of brake fluid out of each line except the front right. I presume that is the brake pump motor. Why would I hear it when bleeding the brakes but not when performing the accumulator voltage test?

 

You do the normal bleeding or brake actuatorremove procedure when the system fail the master cylinder cut off valve will opens to maintain the
hydraulic passage to the front wheel cylinders

 

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Hi, CPAlex. What are you working on - are you replacing the brake accumulator or are you simply bleeding your brake system? If you are just bleeding your brake system without replacing the accumulator, with Techstream Ver. 14, you just use the "Air Bleeding" option and follow the instruction on the screen (no need to run the "Replaced Accumulator" procedure). Checking if the brake accumulator sensor voltage is 0.5 volt is to verify if you have successfully run the "Zero Down" procedure with Techstream. (Most weekend DIYers don't bother to check it.). It is checked with ignition ON but the engine is NOT started. If you the brake accumulator sensor voltage is about 0.5 (a little up and down is OK), you may proceed to disconnect the two brake accumulator pump connectors (next to the firewall) and do the "ECB Invalid" step for getting ready to do the manual brake bleeding for the two front brake lines. Since the front brake lines are bled manually (the traditional 2-people bleeding process), and that you have already "Zero Down" and "ECB Invalid" the brake system, you won't hear the accumulator pressure clicking sound when you perform the manual bleeding of the two front brake lines. However, you will hear the accumulator pump clicking sound when you bleed the two rear brake lines. For the rear passenger side brake, when you loosen the bleeder, without pressing the brake pedal, the brake fluid will stream out, which is pushed by the brake accumulator. This is normal. The brake bleeding process with Techstream sounds complex but the actual operation is much simpler. The key is to follow the instruction on Techstream screen as well as ensure that your battery has sufficient power to sustain the brake bleeding process.
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I should have provided more information. I've been trying to determine if I need to replace my brake accumulator on my 2007 LS460. This started when I replaced my front calipers - when doing so I disconnected the battery and clamped the brake fluid hoses at the calipers to avoid any indication to the computer that anything had happened while the battery was disconnected. That didn't work - when I started the car up I had all the lights on the instrument panel discussed above. My initial step was to first bleed the brakes. I used the Techstream directions but I did not run the "Zero Down" procedure. Bleeding the brakes seemed to go fine but when I ran the linear valve offset (after clearing the memory) I still had the lights. So, I attempted to perform the brake bleed under the "replaced accumulator" procedure. For some reason I could not get past bleeding the accumulator through the rear right bleeder. The error message was that the bleed had failed ( I don't remember the exact message) As I was about to quit for the night I decided to try the linear valve offset (again after clearing the memory) and all but one of the error codes were cleared. At that point the brakes worked very well and the dash error lights were all gone. The next morning when I started the car the lights were all back. I ran the linear valve offset again and the error codes were gone but they came back within a minute of driving. Is my failure to do the zero down procedure perhaps the reason I can't keep the codes cleared or could it be a bad accumulator? I don't think the problem is the pump because when bleeding the rear brakes the brake fluid did stream out.

I've successfully run the linear valve offset a number of times in the past when working on the brakes but this time the codes simply won't stay away.