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Nah....It's a Ford...they all drive like that. Perfectly normal.
Laughed completely out loud on this one!!
Seriously though, quite possibly a CV axle, possibly ball joint, perhaps a combo of both being compromised over a period of time...
If im thinking correctly, that looks like the CV joint completely unattached laying there on the ground.
These things don't just go bad, as they make noise and most times its felt in how the car turns and brakes.
Driver negligence.
Going to go into the Audi dealership this week and see what they'll do for me. I hope it's worth the time, gas, and effort.
If it's going to cost me an arm and leg, i will attempt the repairs myself. Worse comes to worse, I will call a mobile mechanic to rescue me if I get stuck.
You guys recommend the POLY bushings, or standard rubber?
People used to put poly bushings in their Volvos and every one of them creaked to high heaven. No matter what you greased them with the nasty noise would come back, even with the recommended grease from the bushing manufacturer. I would never use a poly bushing but just my take on it. Seems too risky to me.
Kenny, thanks for the reply. I read some of those stories online as well- though some owners here on LS Forum have been fine with poly bushings.
I appreciate the taught feel of the poly bushings. You don't have to tighten the mounting bolts with the car on the ground. They just feel special. It's too early to tell how they will respond to winter weather. Then there is the outstanding customer svc from Jon at shopasd.com/he does a fine job!
I appreciate the taught feel of the poly bushings. You don't have to tighten the mounting bolts with the car on the ground. They just feel special. It's too early to tell how they will respond to winter weather. Then there is the outstanding customer svc from Jon at shopasd.com/he does a fine job!
Excellent, what lube did you use for the poly bushings?
My understanding is once they are removed they are not warranted to stay in place. You can give a call to confirm. Mine are not coming out again for 60k to 100k under any squeak circumstances. At the most they will get the KROIL silicone treatment, and thats about it.
Last edited by superdenso; Oct 11, 2016 at 11:10 AM.
I'm pretty sure I've settled on lower fronts (those are the arms from the specific TSB) only to start with. Once the old arms are out, I will replace the bushings in them with Poly and keep them as spares. Denso, thanks for presenting the info in a previous post...just trying to figure out which steps to take to JUST do the front LH and RH lowers.
Last edited by fooldall1; Oct 12, 2016 at 08:29 PM.
I'm pretty sure I've settled on lower fronts (those are the arms from the specific TSB) only to start with. Once the old arms are out, I will replace the bushings in them with Poly and keep them as spares. Denso, thanks for presenting the info in a previous post...
The polys for the uppers sell for 137. The uuper bushings are small and you can swap them easily with a free bushing service kit rental from advance auto. To access them again in a year or two requires a suspension tear down. Not sure putting it off to save $137 is saving anything. You save a little time now and unload a ton of time on it later.
With my car, one dealer said change them all, another recommended the uppers only. In either case, the brake system and knuckle have to be removed so all bushings were swapped. I would hate to see you spend the money and/or time and come back with adverse results due to the uppers. Get in there and have some fun
Last edited by superdenso; Oct 12, 2016 at 08:42 PM.
Doesn't seem too hard, though taking off everything is time consuming. I may have to wait for a rainy day since this is my daily driver. Think this is a safety concern, or more of an annoyance?
Doesn't seem too hard, though taking off everything is time consuming. I may have to wait for a rainy day since this is my daily driver. Think this is a safety concern, or more of an annoyance?
Seriously, I've owned over 15 cars and this is the first one that's required control arm work. I think you're fine until you hear constant clicks from the suspension. At that point you have lost the rubber bushing and should tow the car to the workshop. Until that point the car is sound imho. The video below shows an alternate method where the upper brackets and the shock are not removed. That style of service may save you an hr. I was more comfortable with all parts out of there.