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easiest way to remove factory sub?

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Old May 11, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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Default easiest way to remove factory sub?

anybody have any instructions? or is there a write up around that may explain how to get the sub out?

i did a search but had no luck
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Old May 13, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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bueller bueller anyone?

somebody's got to know how to do this....
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Old May 13, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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there were dicussions in the audio part of the forum that speaks in general but i think it comes out from the top and to have to remove the rear seat or at least have it forward to get to the deck lid..
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Old May 16, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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I take it you don't have ottoman seat. Then you are in luck. It's not too hard. I did few of them. It took me about an hour. If you dont have ottoman seat, I'll post step by step tomorow.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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I can only imagine with the ottoman seats in L's.
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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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still trying to figure out how to remove the sub.

i got the bottom of the back seat out easily... but now I can't figure out how to get the cover off the rear deck behind the top of the seat to access the sub.

any instructions would be greatly appreciated
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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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well i got into today and just started removing bolts.

far as i can tell is that you have to remove a bolt on each side, a bolt on each side of the bottom and one in the middle under the middle headrest behind the armrest cavity.

i got all the bolts removed except the bottom one on the right side. it will NOT budge. myself and 2 other guys had a go at it with all our might and could not get it to move... and now the nut is a bit mangled. great.

i've got a buddy bringing over a heavy duty pair of vise grips tonight and we're gonna try that.

other than that the only thing i know to do is grind the nut down to the shaft....

i tried just pulling the top of the seat forward enough to get the deck cover off, but that seems impossible. the seat has to come out it seems.

what a fruckin bear. grrrrrrrrr
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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FINALLY got my seats and then the sub out.

the problem is clear. the glue holding the bottom of the cone onto the diaphragm that moves (not sure what it's called) has failed. nothing's ripped or torn or out of place at all.

it looks easily repairable just by re-gluing. gonna take it to a friend of mine who runs a car audio shop and ask him about it.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Why don't you just find an aftermarket same size replacement for it? It'll sound much better and better quality than stock.
What's factory size? 8"??
Can you take some pics & dimension of stock? Thx.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by randomwalk
Why don't you just find an aftermarket same size replacement for it? It'll sound much better and better quality than stock.
What's factory size? 8"??
Can you take some pics & dimension of stock? Thx.
it's a 10.

i'll try and get some pics of it tomorrow... i'd like to go ahead and keep the factory sub if it's repairable...i think with a really good glue job done with the right product by a knowledgeable guy would make the sub better and stronger than when it's new. though i'm sure i'll get him to price some replacement subs. i just don't want to do custom install with a bunch of modifications to the back deck and trunk. if there's a sub that will fit in the factory location maybe i'll go that route... but i'm doubting that there is one.

i'll keep you posted.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 05:15 PM
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Cool. How deep is that stock sub?
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:40 AM
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I was looking into the piooner shallow mounts. I know theyre shallow enough to fit the depth but now sure about the cut out. I'd since decided on going with a custom install. You can get a shallow mount for under 100 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSW25.../dp/B00126B0UK
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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ok.

finally got my sub out, repaired and re-installed.

honestly I think it's much better now than it was to begin with. definitely more durable.

the sub really is a nice little genius design. with the front and back covers on (not pictured) it's right at 4 inches deep. that's pretty amazing. the magnets are inside the cone instead of behind it. pretty cool.

the issue was where the bottom of the cone went through the diaphragm... originally there was just one bead of glue securing this connection on the front facing side of where the cone and diaphragm meet.

that glue had failed causing the rattling noise when it hit.

i used some 5 minute epoxy and glued the connection on the rear facing side of this connection. the bond is now very strong from what i can tell and will now be 'pulling' into diaphragm when it hits rather than 'pulling' away from it (if that makes any sense)

I've attached some pics. I hope they help anyone with similar issues.




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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Wow that magnet is tiny. You could have bought 8" pioneer low mount and it would have beat much better. But on second thought, that may be too overpowering.
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