I had to get my trans rebuilt around 90k. I live on a steep long hill and that's where it gave out. Car was ok until recently and I'm at 135k rn. Recently been having extremely sluggish performance with the car

When I'm on the freeway, I can be cruising at say 60 and it will randomly just feel like it loses power. I can see the rpms drop when it happens. It's kinda like you're foot's off the pedal when it's still on is the best way I can describe how it feels. From a stop it is absolutely horrible now if I'm in drive. If I need to make sure I'm going to have enough power from a stop I have to manually put it in second or first. It feels like third doesn't do anything. Fluid levels are good. I thought it might have been the diff since I ride low and my tires are wide so I changed that out too. The old one sounded like a piggy bank, lots of metal. I probably should have changed the vb too but I didn't..it also had a trans solenoid code I forgot which one but I changed that too..I've sent out my pcm to sia electronics awhile back but they didn't find anything.

I've asked the shop that did the rebuild and the guy I was talking to didn't think it was the trans itself. He said it rarely is on these cars but said he couldn't diagnose it over the phone and it had to be brought in so they could run diagnostics. Only thing is they are backed up until late December..

I've tried searching and haven't found a definitive answer but I know the 01 to 03 are more prone to trans problems right? At this point I'm even thinking it's the pedal but idk.

Amy suggestions on what else to check?

 

Other way around, the A650E is one of the best transmissions ever designed. If you are stanced or dropped don't be surprised when things break.

 

? I'm not lol...I have other cars that I consider to be pretty heavily modified and I know the game. I'm not complaining about it. I even said that the rebuild shop said it's probably not the trans itself. I'm asking what else it could be other than what I've already tried to fix.

 

Perhaps you should just swap in a different trans altogether? They are like $500 and take three hours to do, it would eliminate the chance the rebuild shop messed up

 

Do you feel like trying a new MAF sensor? Replacing the MAF sensor usually solves a lot of engine performance issues which is what this sounds like, not a transmission problem. If you do decide to replace the MAF sensor don't be fooled by all of the couterfeits.

 

Its been awhile, but I know I replaced it before I forget where tho and I know I didn't get it from Lexus probably eBay or something. It does say Toyota on it. I can swap it with the parts LS I have that ones most likely OEM and I know that motor is running good. That's a good suggestion because now that you mention knockoffs, I had a issue before on my lightning and cobra I thought I was buying OEM motorcraft ignition coils from Amazon, but it turns out they were knockoffs. They copied the packaging and everything exactly. Both cars are super sensitive to that kind of stuff. It was to good of a price as well. It was like 250 for the set of 8 when they cost closer to a hundred a piece from Ford.

The pedal does have a weird feeling as well sometimes. It feels like it sticks sometimes. It seems to coincide with the random rpm drop that happens at freeway speeds sometimes. It's hard to explain but it just feels like it'll lose breath for a few seconds. But also it'll do it even if I have cruise control on.

also if I manually shift it, it feels like there's no third. I can feel it slipping from a stop too. Trans ECU is separate right? The guy that repaired my lightning ECU said he repairs older Toyota ecu's all the time and fixes a lot of issues he said, I sent the main ECU to Sia electronics before but it checked out they said.

 

I have a parts LS I got running, and the original reason I bought it was for the trans actually. He just put another one in when I bought it. He also included the one he pulled. The part's one just threw a solenoid code but I gotta double check which one again.

 

Sluggish performance sounds to me like fuel starvation, or an airleak somewhere.

Let's start at the top and work down the list:

1. Check engine light on? If so what are the codes?

2. the air filter. When was the last replacement done? If it's dirty renew.

3. Faulty MAF? (as mentioned already, did you swap it yet with a known good one? Perhaps the one from your parts car)

4. check the vacuum hoses - are any hard and brittle? If so just replace all of them with new along with a new pcv. Yes - all of them.

5. possibly the fuel pump/filter blocked or performing substandard in the tank. Get fuel pressure checked at the engine.

6 check fuel hose that goes between fuel line on chassis and the engine. I've heard of cases that they have been installed kinked at some point preventing enough fuel getting to the engine

7 Check fuses. Are any blown? If so which ones? They usually blow for a reason.

8. Check electrical connectors in engine. Are any disconnected?

9. possibly injectors are clogged?

10. Vague possibility there is a fault throttle pedal sensor reading. And or tps? Swap each over from parts car to check. This is pretty unlikely so make sure to start at the top of this list and work down 1 by 1 to get here.

Let us know how you go and what you find.

 

Hi so I actually did swap my maf out with the other one shortly after it was suggested here. I guess my maf was no good or a knockoff because the one from my parts car made a huge difference. Throttle response was a lot better. Buuuut, shortly after that my trans started to feel like it was slipping. Then a shift solenoid b code popped up. I had changed A last year. From what I was reading solenoid B is inside the trans? Or possibly ECU related?
is the trans computer separate from the main ECU?

I had the PCM/ECU sent it out to Sia electronics last year and they said my Lexus one checked out. So idk what else it could be now. I only have a solenoid code. I'm pretty sure the Maf took care of the engine related stuff. Trans is definitely slipping now.

Thanks for the help guys I appreciate it.

 

Also when I bought the parts LS, the main reason I wanted it was because the guy had just swapped another trans in. He also gave me the one he swapped out. Since these trans are supposed to be bullet proof I'm wondering if his trans problems were something else as well..

 

Firstly - The A650 is an unusually reliable transmission so swapping in a used one will likely solve any current transmission issue. Occasionally they are known to have a solenoid issue and general advice is to change all the solenoids as a set if one goes.
Second: Toyota fixed the ECU bad capacitor issues in the 3rd gen so it is unlikely to be an issue. If you have had this checked out by SIA and they say it's fine it is unlikely to be causing you an issue now. And yes it does control the transmission.
Third: I'm not surprised you got a fake maf on eBay. Happened to me, happened to a friend of mine. Happened to many people on this forum. eBay used to be a good source for these sorts of parts but the fakers have taken over and eBay seem to be doing little to stop it. From now on, ONLY buy engine sensors and other important engine operation components from known reputable part shops - shops like Rock auto, Amayama or an actual Lexus dealer.

Anyway I'm a little confused where everything is at in this thread, lets to clarify where we are at right now:

a) Power is back to normal? The swapped MAF solved that? Or is there still a potential lacking power problem? Do the rpms still drop at all on the highway?

b) Transmission feels like it is slipping. Yes? Code for solenoid B. Is that all? Or are there other symptoms presently? So far solenoid B has not been swapped.

c) There are 3 transmissions in the thread, Which transmission are we talking about that is currently in your car?
Lets call #1. The original one that came from the factory. You had it rebuilt at 90,000 miles and have swapped in a new solenoid A. #2. The spare that came with the parts car that was swapped out for some reason. #3. The one that was fitted in the parts car when you bought it. No known or stated issues yes? Is it still fitted to the parts car?

d) Did the previous guy say why he changed transmission #2 before you bought it? like a code or behavioural issue? If not it is a guessing game as to what it's problem, if any, is.

e) In your original post you mention "should have changed a vb". What do you mean by a vb?

f All fluid levels, in particular the transmission, are currently good?

 

Yes I'm sorry I know it's confusing, and I didn't explain it very clearly and there are 3 transmissions in the mix. Well they were. I actually sold my parts one yesterday for 2k. So now I have the one thats out of the car, that the guy from the parts car I bought, swapped out that one into the other car that's gone now.
My silver 01 ul, is the one I'm worried about now. That one was having the lack of power, and the maf swap helped that out a lot. But shortly after my trans started slipping and threw the solenoid b code. And this trans is the one rebuilt at 90k. And this is also the one I changed solenoid a as well. From a stop the slipping is pretty noticable now..
​​​​​​I put the maf from the silver one in the parts car and it ran like crap so it was definitely the maf that was the problem.

I forgot what the guy said honestly about the trans. He said the shop that was working on it recommend buying a used one and swapping. Don't remember the symptoms he said however.
Oh and by vb I meant valve body sorry.

Fluid levels are good and I used Toyota fluid and changed filter when I did the diff.

 

Given the dramas, I would pick up a used transmission from from and known working car (eg. rear ended or side swiped parts car) and get that put it.

 

You know what sucks is that I just sold that parts car one and that trans was good, and right after I sold it I got the solenoid code lol. It slipping pretty bad now and I need a car for a few more days until I get my other car running again. I still got the one the guy that's supposed to be bad too I'm my garage which is probably garbage too.

I'm gonna be waiting for a long time to find a good trans from a LS where I live. Shipping is probably around 400 to get one. Are the ones from other cars like is and GS plug and play? Or even a Rx if they used those too. I'd have a better chance at finding a Rx I think.

 

I believe a650e's are the same mechanically. Certainly I haven't found evidence that there were any made to different torque ratings or gear ratios so therefore they should be plug and play.

That said I haven't had need to swap mine out so I can't guarantee it for certain from first hand experience.