Front shock replacement
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 46
Likes: 6
From: Tauranga
Front shock replacement
Hi guys. I have to replace a leaking front front shock on my 05 LS430.
It is a factory coil front suspension.
My question is, Do I need to release the upper ball joint in order to remove the shock/spring assembly ?
From what I can see, this is probably the case.
Secondly I do not want to hit the aluminium arm that is attached to the ball joint.
Can anyone recommend a suitable puller for the job. Hopefully from rockauto as that is where I like to buy car parts in the US. (I'm in New Zealand)
Appreciate any help here.
It is a factory coil front suspension.
My question is, Do I need to release the upper ball joint in order to remove the shock/spring assembly ?
From what I can see, this is probably the case.
Secondly I do not want to hit the aluminium arm that is attached to the ball joint.
Can anyone recommend a suitable puller for the job. Hopefully from rockauto as that is where I like to buy car parts in the US. (I'm in New Zealand)
Appreciate any help here.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
Hi guys. I have to replace a leaking front front shock on my 05 LS430.
It is a factory coil front suspension.
My question is, Do I need to release the upper ball joint in order to remove the shock/spring assembly ?
From what I can see, this is probably the case.
Secondly I do not want to hit the aluminium arm that is attached to the ball joint.
Can anyone recommend a suitable puller for the job. Hopefully from rockauto as that is where I like to buy car parts in the US. (I'm in New Zealand)
Appreciate any help here.
It is a factory coil front suspension.
My question is, Do I need to release the upper ball joint in order to remove the shock/spring assembly ?
From what I can see, this is probably the case.
Secondly I do not want to hit the aluminium arm that is attached to the ball joint.
Can anyone recommend a suitable puller for the job. Hopefully from rockauto as that is where I like to buy car parts in the US. (I'm in New Zealand)
Appreciate any help here.
If you want to use the tool:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/su...e+fork,1000899
Get the separator, not a pickle fork.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 46
Likes: 6
From: Tauranga
S
Yes, you need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove the strut assembly. I just did mine by loosening the castle nut a few turns and then hitting the arm a few times to pop it loose. No damage done. The problem with the separator tools is that you must be really careful to not damage the ball joint boot.
If you want to use the tool:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/su...e+fork,1000899
Get the separator, not a pickle fork.
If you want to use the tool:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/su...e+fork,1000899
Get the separator, not a pickle fork.
I usually do hit them, just a bit cautious with my favourite car !
Reasuring to know yours was not too much trouble, I may decide to hit it after all.
Pit Crew
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 126
Likes: 46
From: FL
I have used the Pitman Arm Puller to release the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle: https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/st...arm+puller,489
The tool works well, you would probably be fine hitting the arm, but I would rather avoid it
The tool works well, you would probably be fine hitting the arm, but I would rather avoid it
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 820
From: TX
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,098
Likes: 1,740
From: Ohio
Take the nut off, flip around so that the crown in the first thing that threads in, screw it on until the stud is almost flush with the end of the nut but still "inside" the nut and then hit the nut with a 8lb rubber dead-blow and it will free the ball joint without damage risks and will also prevent it from flying apart. You don't need a tool to do this and if that doesn't work there are other steps to add on to what I said depending on how badly it fights
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 46
Likes: 6
From: Tauranga
8lb dead blow
Take the nut off, flip around so that the crown in the first thing that threads in, screw it on until the stud is almost flush with the end of the nut but still "inside" the nut and then hit the nut with a 8lb rubber dead-blow and it will free the ball joint without damage risks and will also prevent it from flying apart. You don't need a tool to do this and if that doesn't work there are other steps to add on to what I said depending on how badly it fights
I do have a 2lb dead blow hammer, hope that's enough of a shock ?
Maybe a little heat the the arm if its stubborn ?
Last edited by ermat; Feb 20, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
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Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,098
Likes: 1,740
From: Ohio
Just hit it a bit harder, do not use heat if you don't want to have to replace the arm from a fried ball joint/possible alum failure. Heavy hammers just allow more control
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 46
Likes: 6
From: Tauranga
Front shock
Just one other question, can anyone confirm, it appears the left and right front shocks are interchangeable. One part number does both sides. Is that the case ?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
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