Replacing UCA without removing shock?
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 126
Likes: 46
From: FL
Replacing UCA without removing shock?
Is it possible to replace the UCA without removing the shock? With the air suspension, this blocks any access to the UCA bolt and you definitely couldn't get a torque wrench in there.
Even after using an impact wrench and PB blaster, the shock bolt would not come out or move. There is a 19mm nut on the other side that needs to be held. Now it looks like the shock bolt is rounded. Is there anyway to at least lower the LCA/shock tower to gain access to these UCA bolts? It isn't moving at all even after removing the strut mount
Even after using an impact wrench and PB blaster, the shock bolt would not come out or move. There is a 19mm nut on the other side that needs to be held. Now it looks like the shock bolt is rounded. Is there anyway to at least lower the LCA/shock tower to gain access to these UCA bolts? It isn't moving at all even after removing the strut mount
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 126
Likes: 46
From: FL
How would I enter service mode? Is it just putting the air suspension to HI and pulling the fuse?
Replacing the UCA was simple so far, but the strut bolt being stuck is the only thing stopping me right now
Replacing the UCA was simple so far, but the strut bolt being stuck is the only thing stopping me right now
Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 265
Likes: 72
From: New South Wales
I replaced both my upper control arms with the struts still in place on my 01 a few months ago. A much easier job than I anticipated.
I can't recall if I needed to remove the lower bolt (the one through the lower arm and bottom of strut) or not but the top of the strut was definitely in place. You would get a bit more room to access the two arm bolts with strut out but it is certainly easy enough with strut in place. I doubt that removing the strut completely would make the overall job faster.
It took me about 20-30 minutes each side from jacking, stands, wheel off, disconnecting the abs sensor wire and brake hose from upper arm hanger, separating top ball joint, tieing up the now dangling hub assembly, removing both control arm bolts and arm.
reverse to reassemble.
Remember - Don't completely tighten those upper arm bolts until after everything is back together with wheels on sitting on ground at normal ride height. Then torque both of them. Everything else is torque as you go.
I can't recall if I needed to remove the lower bolt (the one through the lower arm and bottom of strut) or not but the top of the strut was definitely in place. You would get a bit more room to access the two arm bolts with strut out but it is certainly easy enough with strut in place. I doubt that removing the strut completely would make the overall job faster.
It took me about 20-30 minutes each side from jacking, stands, wheel off, disconnecting the abs sensor wire and brake hose from upper arm hanger, separating top ball joint, tieing up the now dangling hub assembly, removing both control arm bolts and arm.
reverse to reassemble.
Remember - Don't completely tighten those upper arm bolts until after everything is back together with wheels on sitting on ground at normal ride height. Then torque both of them. Everything else is torque as you go.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,100
Likes: 1,741
From: Ohio
I replaced both my upper control arms with the struts still in place on my 01 a few months ago. A much easier job than I anticipated.
I can't recall if I needed to remove the lower bolt (the one through the lower arm and bottom of strut) or not but the top of the strut was definitely in place. You would get a bit more room to access the two arm bolts with strut out but it is certainly easy enough with strut in place. I doubt that removing the strut completely would make the overall job faster.
It took me about 20-30 minutes each side from jacking, stands, wheel off, disconnecting the abs sensor wire and brake hose from upper arm hanger, separating top ball joint, tieing up the now dangling hub assembly, removing both control arm bolts and arm.
reverse to reassemble.
Remember - Don't completely tighten those upper arm bolts until after everything is back together with wheels on sitting on ground at normal ride height. Then torque both of them. Everything else is torque as you go.
I can't recall if I needed to remove the lower bolt (the one through the lower arm and bottom of strut) or not but the top of the strut was definitely in place. You would get a bit more room to access the two arm bolts with strut out but it is certainly easy enough with strut in place. I doubt that removing the strut completely would make the overall job faster.
It took me about 20-30 minutes each side from jacking, stands, wheel off, disconnecting the abs sensor wire and brake hose from upper arm hanger, separating top ball joint, tieing up the now dangling hub assembly, removing both control arm bolts and arm.
reverse to reassemble.
Remember - Don't completely tighten those upper arm bolts until after everything is back together with wheels on sitting on ground at normal ride height. Then torque both of them. Everything else is torque as you go.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 18,100
Likes: 1,741
From: Ohio
Use a dealer level tool like techstream to tell it it is being serviced so it will shut down the air system and not break itself trying to relevel or think a height sensor had a problem.
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Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 126
Likes: 46
From: FL
Thanks guys, I will try heat and see if that helps. I could definitely see it being possible to remove the UCA if it wasn't air suspension.
Did not know about the service mode in Techstream. I will be sure to use that when I try again
Did not know about the service mode in Techstream. I will be sure to use that when I try again
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