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I was waiting on the mechanic to find one for me but I am getting little impatient now so I may end up getting one those JDM engines. But this is a good price.
I am still little confused the compatibility for 2005. Here is 2001 Lexus Engine for sale but it not compatible with 2005 only 2001-2004. Ebay 2001 Lexus LS430. I was under the impression that 04, 05 and 06 are identical engines.
Thanks for all your help.
The '04-'06 are compatible. If it saves a considerable amount I wouldn't hesitate to get the '01-'03 version. You have all the parts on your current engine to make it work. Swap the throttle body, alternator, and knock sensors. I would guess that it would only add an hour of labor to the final bill. They would have to pull the intake manifold to swap the knock sensors but that only takes a few minutes if the engine is out of the car. I would also order a new Aisin timing belt kit and have that installed on the replacement engine. Another hour or so of labor but you'll be good for another 90k miles.
I was waiting on the mechanic to find one for me but I am getting little impatient now so I may end up getting one those JDM engines. But this is a good price.
I am still little confused the compatibility for 2005. Here is 2001 Lexus Engine for sale but it not compatible with 2005 only 2001-2004. Ebay 2001 Lexus LS430. I was under the impression that 04, 05 and 06 are identical engines.
Thanks for all your help.
Replacing engine is OK but we're talking about almost 20 year old car. I wonder if it is wise decision to to go ahead and replace engine.
Next what else might have a issue? Transmission, suspension, brake? I don't know. If I were in this case I'd just bite the bullet, buy a
another new or good used one like CPO car. Any how I never kept a car longer than 6 years. When working I drove company car which was
replaced every 3 years. Company's idea was if I drove the car to the ground, the book value would be near zero but 3 year old car would still have
some residual value remaining on the book.
I see your point about getting something newer but I don't quite agree. The car as it sits now with a blown engine would probably sell for $500-1000. If he spends $2500 on replacing the engine, the car is now worth around $5000. Either way I would replace the engine and then decide to sell or keep. If he keeps it he will still have no car payment for as long as the rest of the car lasts, which could be quite a long time.
I see your point about getting something newer but I don't quite agree. The car as it sits now with a blown engine would probably sell for $500-1000. If he spends $2500 on replacing the engine, the car is now worth around $5000. Either way I would replace the engine and then decide to sell or keep. If he keeps it he will still have no car payment for as long as the rest of the car lasts, which could be quite a long time.
Sure I totally agree with that logic but there is no guarantee all is well after engine is replaced. Good luck.
I just read the service manual procedure on engine removal. Apparently it's designed to come out the bottom of the car with the transmission and the front cradle assembly still attached. You then proceed to remove the transmission and cradle while on the bench. This method seems relatively easy but I would assume a lift would be required to get the body high enough for removal. Not really a job for on the driveway.
911LE brought up an important point that may or may not have been overlooked...
If you find a motor and, after shopping around, find a mechanic to do the swap make sure he is aware it has to come out from below WITH the trans still attached. A professional shop is equipped for this but not every indie shop will have the proper equipment.
911LE brought up an important point that may or may not have been overlooked...
If you find a motor and, after shopping around, find a mechanic to do the swap make sure he is aware it has to come out from below WITH the trans still attached. A professional shop is equipped for this but not every indie shop will have the proper equipment.
As long as the shop has a lift they can occupy for the duration of the repair they should be fine. A heavy duty rolling cart would make things easier as they could lower the car until the the cradle is supported by said cart and unbolt and lift the body up and away. If you find a shop that will tackle the procedure I can supply the service manual procedure for such an endeavor. It's really not very complicated as that is how the assembly is installed at the factory. A Lexus speciality shop here in Phoenix quoted me 18 hours of labor for R&R but that seems quite high to me. If I had the proper equipment I'm betting I could cut that time in half.
I am finally getting a JDM 2004 Engine with 50K miles delivered this week. I am getting the following changed
1. New radiator, radiator cap, and radiator fluid
RockAuto by CSF 2806 for $67.79 Radiator
2. Aisin timing belt kit with water pump. Kit $187
3. New spark plugs - not sure? https://www.ebay.com/i/252421843861?chn=ps
Are the original NGK or Denso?
Is there anything else I should I think about.
Some who has gone through this please advice!
Check the rear main seal on the engine for any seepage, replace if necessary. I would pull the torque converter off of the transmission and replace the seal for that as well.
So the mechanic told me also to get the serpentine belt. He also said make sure the timing belt is OEM.
So is the Aisin timing belt kit OEM?
Do I need the Hydraulic Tensioner? if yes then Do you bleed these before installing them?
Which brand of serpentine belt would you recommend?
The Aisin timing belt kits have all OEM parts including the tensioner. No bleeding is required. You may as well get the kit with the water pump (tkt-021, usually $170 at Rockauto) and have that replaced at the same time. It only adds five minutes to the timing belt job. As far as the serpentine belt I usually go with Bando or Gates. The brand on those isn't as important as the timing belt as the serpentine belt is easily replaceable later.
The Aisin timing belt kits have all OEM parts including the tensioner. No bleeding is required. You may as well get the kit with the water pump (tkt-021, usually $170 at Rockauto) and have that replaced at the same time. It only adds five minutes to the timing belt job. As far as the serpentine belt I usually go with Bando or Gates. The brand on those isn't as important as the timing belt as the serpentine belt is easily replaceable later.
Thanks again
.I got the Aisin Kit you said and the Bando Serpentine belt. I forgot about the Thermostat so I ordered the OEM one today.
The mechanic asked me if I wanted to replace Engine mounts? I said I have no idea!. Any thoughts?
The JDM Engine I got also came with Engine mounts.