Engine Overheated
#16
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Hey man not to be a downer shine a flash light to were the head meets the block see if the headgasket is pushed out at all anywere. I think you might need a new motor, the 3uz is all aluminum so the fact yours got so hot you could have warped the head cracked the block. Also since there was not coolant in it while running its possible the weird noise might be bearings of some kind that overheated do to lack of coolant or the valves rubbing because the head is warped. I am not trying to seem mean or crush your hopes worst case scenario you need a new motor, heater core etc.
Please keep us posted I would like to be 100% wrong and your car runs right after a radiator and heater core flush.
Please keep us posted I would like to be 100% wrong and your car runs right after a radiator and heater core flush.
Last edited by 05ls430518; 09-05-18 at 12:45 PM.
The following users liked this post:
LexInFL (09-05-18)
#17
Lexus Champion
Your radiator cap is essentially a pressure relief valve and as the coolant in the cooling system heats up and expands, it causes the pressure to build up, and the radiator cap is the only escape route. The setting of the radiator cap spring is set to prevent over-pressuring the system, so once this maximum pressure is reached, the radiator cap's "gasket" is pushed open, allowing some coolant to escape from the cooling system, through the overflow tube into the bottom of the coolant reservoir. Once the engine cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open the spring loaded valve, sucking coolant back in from the bottom of the reservoir to replace what was expelled previously. The "seal" on the cap is the containment that prevents coolant loss.
Your radiator cap looked disintegrated with missing parts.
Your radiator cap looked disintegrated with missing parts.
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Gotcha, so the Bar's Leak will not be your problem....as I recall (it was a really long time ago), when my head gaskets were gone, everything was milky, incl. peeking down the radiator overflow, and the oil filler cap. That car just reminded me I had a Snap On adapter for the drain plug and don't know where it ever went....
How about this...do you know what color your coolant was when it was normal? Meaning, it's not necessarily pink or red, it could have been switched to green at some point. It's puzzling what the white substance can be...(as I understand it, any coolant used other than pink, merely means that the life of the coolant is of the lower replacement interval, such as if green and pink were mixed, or red and pink)
How about this...do you know what color your coolant was when it was normal? Meaning, it's not necessarily pink or red, it could have been switched to green at some point. It's puzzling what the white substance can be...(as I understand it, any coolant used other than pink, merely means that the life of the coolant is of the lower replacement interval, such as if green and pink were mixed, or red and pink)
#19
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hey man not to be a downer shine a flash light to were the head meets the block see if the headgasket is pushed out at all anywere. I think you might need a new motor, the 3uz is all aluminum so the fact yours got so hot you could have warped the head cracked the block. Also since there was not coolant in it while running its possible the weird noise might be bearings of some kind that overheated do to lack of coolant or the valves rubbing because the head is warped. I am not trying to seem mean or crush your hopes worst case scenario you need a new motor, heater core etc.
Please keep us posted I would like to be 100% wrong and your car runs right after a radiator and heater core flush.
Please keep us posted I would like to be 100% wrong and your car runs right after a radiator and heater core flush.
Will look for the headgasket. Thanks.
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
Your radiator cap is essentially a pressure relief valve and as the coolant in the cooling system heats up and expands, it causes the pressure to build up, and the radiator cap is the only escape route. The setting of the radiator cap spring is set to prevent over-pressuring the system, so once this maximum pressure is reached, the radiator cap's "gasket" is pushed open, allowing some coolant to escape from the cooling system, through the overflow tube into the bottom of the coolant reservoir. Once the engine cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open the spring loaded valve, sucking coolant back in from the bottom of the reservoir to replace what was expelled previously. The "seal" on the cap is the containment that prevents coolant loss.
Your radiator cap looked disintegrated with missing parts.
Your radiator cap looked disintegrated with missing parts.
Thanks for explaining how this works, now it makes more sense.
#23
I was driving 80MPH on the interstate in my Lexus LS430 2005 when I pull off the exit and stopped to make a right turn. The car switched off and I saw steam coming out of the hood. I also noticed the temperature was all the way up to max. I had the car towed home and removed the cover and saw this.
The hose that goes to the overflow was disconnected.. not sure what damage i caused and what to do next. The oil level is just above the minimum mark. I started the car for few seconds and it does not sound normal, some tapping noise and very rough. Any insight and help would be appreciated. Thanks.
The hose that goes to the overflow was disconnected.. not sure what damage i caused and what to do next. The oil level is just above the minimum mark. I started the car for few seconds and it does not sound normal, some tapping noise and very rough. Any insight and help would be appreciated. Thanks.
- Visual diagnostic of leaks, especially in the area of large size gaskets. This needs to be done by the specialist.
- Need to replace radiator assembly (new rock auto 69 dollars, put in the comment the one made in Taiwan, not China), overflow tank with two fans assembly (search used oem on eBay), new radiator cap (need to choose correct one based on official catalogue), new two large hoses, new thermostat, new gasket. PROPER installation is a must.
- Check for radiator vibrations (search for on me of my topics) in the area of upper or lower mounts.
- Properly drain coolant and purchase new OEM fluids.
- when replacing radiator, use the chance to review the engine from the bottom, make as many pictures as possible, also check for transmission leaks and coolant hoses going from transmission.
- Ensure the area near thermostat is fully sealed and you don’t see any visual corrosion.
- Drain oil engine and observe the color of it. If it is not black, you have a problem.
- Install new oil filter, drain bolt gasket, install coolant system parts back and fill coolant and oil to specifications.
- proceed with additional maintenance if additional diagnostic is made, and if any sensors require replacement right behind the radiator.
Pour good oil in it (Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 or smth else with high zinc), install wix xp or royal purple filter, and verify if the sound of engine is dramatically decreased.
hopefully, this will fix your problem without costly repairs. Again, take a detailed look at gaskets that separate coolant and oil, very important.
Good luck! We are to help you further!
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LexInFL (09-06-18)
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LexInFL (09-06-18)
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LexInFL (09-06-18)
#27
p0117 - Short in ECT sensor circuit for 0.5 seconds (1 trip detection logic). Trouble area includes: Short in ECT sensor circuit, ECT sensor, or ECM.
P0327, P0332 - Output voltage of knock sensor is 0.5 V or less (1 trip detection logic). Trouble area includes: Short in knock sensor circuit, Knock sensor, or ECM. ECM could have set ignition timing to the maximum retard - failsafe operation.
P0345 - No VVT sensor signal to ECM with engine speed 600 rpm or more (1 trip detection logic). Trouble area includes: Open or short in VVT sensor circuit (bank 2), VVT sensor, Camshaft timing pulley, Timing belt has a jumped tooth, or ECM.
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LexInFL (09-06-18)
#28
Here is the LS430 procedure to check cooling system for leaks:
(a) Fill the radiator with coolant and attach a radiator cap tester.
(b) Warm up the engine.
(c) Pump it to 137 kPa (1.4kgf/cm2,19.9psi), and check that the pressure does not drop.
If the pressure drops, check the hoses, radiator or water pump for leaks. If no external leaksare found, check the heater core, cylinder block and cylinder head.
(a) Fill the radiator with coolant and attach a radiator cap tester.
(b) Warm up the engine.
(c) Pump it to 137 kPa (1.4kgf/cm2,19.9psi), and check that the pressure does not drop.
If the pressure drops, check the hoses, radiator or water pump for leaks. If no external leaksare found, check the heater core, cylinder block and cylinder head.
The following 2 users liked this post by ls430w140:
LexInFL (09-06-18),
Richardgil (10-03-18)
#29
Rookie
iTrader: (1)
About few weeks ago,I was leaking coolant on my LS so I had it checked out and found to be a faulty radiator. Im kinda surprised because my LS only has 84K miles and my radiator blew so soon, especially a bulletproof automobile like LS430.
All these time I thought it was just a bad luck but Im beginning to see more and more LS with faulty radiator, overflow tank or radiator cap, strange. I've had many cars including my last car GS430 with over 210k miles and I never had
to replace any radiator.
Guys keep checking your cooling system regularly!!
All these time I thought it was just a bad luck but Im beginning to see more and more LS with faulty radiator, overflow tank or radiator cap, strange. I've had many cars including my last car GS430 with over 210k miles and I never had
to replace any radiator.
Guys keep checking your cooling system regularly!!
The following users liked this post:
LexInFL (09-06-18)
#30
Rookie
Thread Starter
Okay. Things may not be as bad as you may think. I suggest doing this:
- Visual diagnostic of leaks, especially in the area of large size gaskets. This needs to be done by the specialist.
- Need to replace radiator assembly (new rock auto 69 dollars, put in the comment the one made in Taiwan, not China), overflow tank with two fans assembly (search used oem on eBay), new radiator cap (need to choose correct one based on official catalogue), new two large hoses, new thermostat, new gasket. PROPER installation is a must.
- Check for radiator vibrations (search for on me of my topics) in the area of upper or lower mounts.
- Properly drain coolant and purchase new OEM fluids.
- when replacing radiator, use the chance to review the engine from the bottom, make as many pictures as possible, also check for transmission leaks and coolant hoses going from transmission.
- Ensure the area near thermostat is fully sealed and you don’t see any visual corrosion.
- Drain oil engine and observe the color of it. If it is not black, you have a problem.
- Install new oil filter, drain bolt gasket, install coolant system parts back and fill coolant and oil to specifications.
- proceed with additional maintenance if additional diagnostic is made, and if any sensors require replacement right behind the radiator.
Pour good oil in it (Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 or smth else with high zinc), install wix xp or royal purple filter, and verify if the sound of engine is dramatically decreased.
hopefully, this will fix your problem without costly repairs. Again, take a detailed look at gaskets that separate coolant and oil, very important.
Good luck! We are to help you further!
To make sure I understand can you please answer few questions.
1. I saw the radiator at RockAuto by CSF 2806 for $69.79 www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8610452&cc=1430994&jsn=340
So I should not try to get get the OEM radiator? This is good enough.
2. Not sure why I need to change the overflow tank with two fans assembly?.
3. "two large hoses" - Do I need to replace this because you think they may be cracked?
4. "new gasket" - is this the thermostat gasket?
5. "Pour good oil" - I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic and I use Toyota filter. Is this good enough?
Thanks