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Okay. Things may not be as bad as you may think. I suggest doing this:
- Visual diagnostic of leaks, especially in the area of large size gaskets. This needs to be done by the specialist.
- Need to replace radiator assembly (new rock auto 69 dollars, put in the comment the one made in Taiwan, not China), overflow tank with two fans assembly (search used oem on eBay), new radiator cap (need to choose correct one based on official catalogue), new two large hoses, new thermostat, new gasket. PROPER installation is a must.
- Check for radiator vibrations (search for on me of my topics) in the area of upper or lower mounts.
- Properly drain coolant and purchase new OEM fluids.
- when replacing radiator, use the chance to review the engine from the bottom, make as many pictures as possible, also check for transmission leaks and coolant hoses going from transmission.
- Ensure the area near thermostat is fully sealed and you don’t see any visual corrosion.
- Drain oil engine and observe the color of it. If it is not black, you have a problem.
- Install new oil filter, drain bolt gasket, install coolant system parts back and fill coolant and oil to specifications.
- proceed with additional maintenance if additional diagnostic is made, and if any sensors require replacement right behind the radiator.
Pour good oil in it (Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 or smth else with high zinc), install wix xp or royal purple filter, and verify if the sound of engine is dramatically decreased.
hopefully, this will fix your problem without costly repairs. Again, take a detailed look at gaskets that separate coolant and oil, very important.
Good luck! We are to help you further!
btw Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is available via amazon prime $24.xx, and there is a rebate for $10. I too use the WIX XP, so this is exactly what went on my wife's suv on Sun. Then on Monday, I grabbed Mobil 1 from the garage, with WIX XP for the LS430.
I hope the new engine oil will change the sound of OPs motor, it sure can't hurt....and yes, the oil is very black when it comes out....(blacker than when smeared from the dipstick on a paper towel..)
p.s. since I just did this the last few days, 5.25 qts. works for me. I don't want to overfill so I tried 4.75, 5, 5.25....
Guys keep checking your cooling system regularly!!
Amen.. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link, and 13-18 year old plastic parts, like the radiator tanks and the overflow bottle will fail. When I did the TB on my 2001 a few months ago, the radiator really didn't look bad. It was dirty, but no tell tail signs of leakage.
However, I would have been a fool to put an 18 year old radiator back in the car that has gone through countless Hot/Cold cycles.
Oil and Coolant are the 2 things I check at least every other week. It only takes a few minutes.
Ok, enough rambling....
Here's hoping that LexinFL's engine can be saved, or fixed fairly inexpensively...
Is430w140 Thanks for writing all this up. It is very helpful in making some decision.
To make sure I understand can you please answer few questions.
1. I saw the radiator at RockAuto by CSF 2806 for $69.79 www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8610452&cc=1430994&jsn=340
So I should not try to get get the OEM radiator? This is good enough.
2. Not sure why I need to change the overflow tank with two fans assembly?.
3. "two large hoses" - Do I need to replace this because you think they may be cracked?
4. "new gasket" - is this the thermostat gasket?
5. "Pour good oil" - I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic and I use Toyota filter. Is this good enough?
Thanks
Okay man I am going to say this again make sure your motor is not junk before you buy/do all of this stuff and waste your time and money. As 911 said do a compression test to see if the motor is crap have some one take the valve covers off and inspect the heads and valvtrain to see if anything is amiss.
How pissed off are you going to be if you wasted 2 weeks and $200-$500 for no reason then have to buy a new motor on top of it. I am just talking from experience find out what the exact problem is and fix it. Dont just start throwing money and parts at it because that method never works talking from experience.
Last edited by 05ls430518; Sep 6, 2018 at 07:00 AM.
I believe the engine may still be saved. Just smth tells me things are not that bad.
LexInFl, May I ask if you are planning to bring the car to a good motorist today or tomorrow? Someone has to look in your 3uz-fe asap. As I mentioned previously several times, diagnostics has to be done by the specialist as a first step. Please upload the results over here so we can take a look before you start any repairs.
Okay man I am going to say this again make sure your motor is not junk before you buy/do all of this stuff and waste your time and money. As 911 said do a compression test to see if the motor is crap have some one take the valve covers off and inspect the heads and valvtrain to see if anything is amiss.
How pissed off are you going to be if you wasted 2 weeks and $200-$500 for no reason then have to buy a new motor on top of it. I am just talking from experience find out what the exact problem is and fix it. Dont just start throwing money and parts at it because that method never works talking from experience.
Unless a person simply enjoys getting to the bottom of things. I saw the YouTube where the person methodically tore down the motor to his E55 AMG. A stupid o-ring which had hardened up and was brittle, caused his entire motor to fail, it was internal. He pointed out the vehicle didn't even have an oil pressure warning. Odd. But it was cool what he showed, and all the parts were laid out in an organized fashion. This is if you have the time and interest...
Unless a person simply enjoys getting to the bottom of things. I saw the YouTube where the person methodically tore down the motor to his E55 AMG. A stupid o-ring which had hardened up and was brittle, caused his entire motor to fail, it was internal. He pointed out the vehicle didn't even have an oil pressure warning. Odd. But it was cool what he showed, and all the parts were laid out in an organized fashion. This is if you have the time and interest...
Yah man I am 99% sure you need a new motor now I still hope I am wrong, your cam and knock sensors are on for a reason it was not just a random cel yah know.
It is pretty safe to assume the engine is cooked. I am surprised it did not seize up. Result of not keeping up with maintenance? When I am driving I scan dash and note what every gauge is showing from time to time specially on long distance trips. When temp. gauge shows abnormal high reading OP should've pulle over right there and then. Wait until engine shuts down? Sounds like blowers and ram air was cooling the engine. Learning a lesson at big expenses. Wasn't there a commercial 'Penny wise and Pound
foolish"?
I now, just in case, drive around with a DLC extender with on-off switch, connected with an Elm 327 BT and Torque Lite on my phone.
On different drives I monitor different things,i.e., voltage, water temp, O2 sensors,... This is just for fun.
The real usefulness of this is if I ever have a code, I have the scanner all set up.
Now if I could just find a tablet that turns off when I turn the switch off. I guess is possible if I remove the battery and have a long micro usb cable to connect to a fuse.
Unless a person simply enjoys getting to the bottom of things. I saw the YouTube where the person methodically tore down the motor to his E55 AMG. A stupid o-ring which had hardened up and was brittle, caused his entire motor to fail, it was internal. He pointed out the vehicle didn't even have an oil pressure warning. Odd. But it was cool what he showed, and all the parts were laid out in an organized fashion. This is if you have the time and interest...
I know man but you can take it to a shop ask them whats wrong they will tell you and you proceed from there. The internet is also filled with knowledge that you dont have to pay for and can learn whatever you want on your own time.
I now, just in case, drive around with a DLC extender with on-off switch, connected with an Elm 327 BT and Torque Lite on my phone.
On different drives I monitor different things,i.e., voltage, water temp, O2 sensors,... This is just for fun.
The real usefulness of this is if I ever have a code, I have the scanner all set up.
Now if I could just find a tablet that turns off when I turn the switch off. I guess is possible if I remove the battery and have a long micro usb cable to connect to a fuse.
Good idea, not sure why I am so lazy....I have a bluetooth OBDII and two old android tablets, still have not installed torque. I actually have never read the LS430 in 2 yrs....knock on wood haven't needed to....I also waited so long the GM TPMS tool came down to $16, got one, and never used lol
Good idea, not sure why I am so lazy....I have a bluetooth OBDII and two old android tablets, still have not installed torque. I actually have never read the LS430 in 2 yrs....knock on wood haven't needed to....I also waited so long the GM TPMS tool came down to $16, got one, and never used lol
If you can fix your transmission you seem to be capable enough to try to fix this yourself. This is what I would do:
Drain the old oil and note the condition of it. Might even want to save a small sample for analysis. If it looks like a chocolate shake or you can already see a separation of the oil and coolant than you might want to think about a replacement engine. If it doesn't look too bad then I would pickup some cheap oil and a cheap oil filter. You are only going to run this for a short period of time before replacing it again.
Buy a replacement radiator.
Buy a new radiator cap.
As for replacing the hoses, they are not that expensive and you can save on the shipping charge if you order your stuff online. You could also just use the ones that you currently have for now.
Buy some radiator flush cleaner.
Install the new radiator, drain out as much of the old coolant as possible and then fill the car up with the flush cleaner. Run the engine for awhile. Make note of unusual engine sounds, leaks of any type, etc.
Drain off the flush cleaner and then fill up the system with your choice of coolant.
I believe the engine may still be saved. Just smth tells me things are not that bad.
LexInFl, May I ask if you are planning to bring the car to a good motorist today or tomorrow? Someone has to look in your 3uz-fe asap. As I mentioned previously several times, diagnostics has to be done by the specialist as a first step. Please upload the results over here so we can take a look before you start any repairs.
God I hope you are right. The wife has thrown me in the dog house again. Living on those dog biscuits right now.
Yes I am going to get someone to the house or tow it to a shop. I don't think I should drive it. Finding a specialist is harder than I thought. I am in a small town Melbourne FL.
First thanks to everyone for their input. All good stuff
So here is some more info
1. I filled the radiator with distilled water and then drained it. (Picture 1) and it was pink in color.
2. Then refilled it few more times and drained until it was clear.
3. planning on a proper flush later if the Engine is not dead.
4. I temporary fixed the radiator to stop the water leaking out but I did not connect the overflow tank.
5. Drained the old oil (Picture 2 Oil was black) and put some new oil and a new filter
6. Disconnected and the battery for 10 mins and reconnected it back to reset the code
7. Started the car for few minutes (video 1)
8. Read the DTC error codes again (Picture 3) The last code is in the picture is
P0345 pending
Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' circuit
Malfunction Bank 2
Rad cap failed allowing coolant loss causing overheat. Clearly neighboring cyl 6 and 8 are not producing, perhaps head gasket failure between those 2 cyl and/or valve train component failure as vvt code would support. Teardown of cyl head (s) after compression test will be expensive with potential to still have engine bottom end problems. Close or similiar time and money to swap in a used motor perhaps less.
I would totally tear down the clanker for a post mordem if they dont want the core...i dont think these motors are sought by builders...failures are rare and good used motors are plenty and fairly cheap considering. A good used jeep 4.7 V8 is like 2 grand and its a time bomb by design. The 3uz will go along time unless something like this happens. A 5 dollar radiator cap killed your engine...it doesnt take long and by the time most drivers realize whats happening the damage is done.
Or pull the heads and decide decide from there. Expensive decisions are best done with the car off the $125 hour shop hoist.
did i miss how many qts of black oil came out of the engine?
