Window has trouble rolling down after tint job
So after I went to the tint place for the 4th time the rubber that touches my window is cut and my window rolls inward were its cut while rolling down bogging up the motor. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this?
I don't actually know how big is your torn in the rubber, but when it happened with me it was on the edge attached to the mirror triangle, I temporarily used a piece of gorilla clear tape then replaced the whole rubber thing.
I am gonna post pics and video in an hour or two gotta do some stuff first. Its really hard to explain the door panel moves out I have never seen anything like it.
Is the film sticky and dragging the molding down with it instead of just sliding by the ribber? If you were to dampen the film on the glass would that allow the glass to slide down without pulling the rubber? Hard to tell what is happening on your video.
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Is there a certain angle or view that would help you see the problem better?
and you have tried pulling the rubber molding up already, right? i remember something like that happened to me before i knew i knew/started to tint my own windows. i went back to the shop and they used one of their squeegees to pull the rubber up and once it cleared it was fine. but if they damaged it/cut it when trimming the tint, then they should replace it.
Bad tint job, they were not careful enough in doing the work. The place that did mine made a similar mistake but I was able to correct it. They pushed down way too hard on a few spots on the rubber on my driver window, causing the rubber to be folded inwards/downwards. I noticed it right away after I drove it home and was able to pry the rubber upwards back up and reshaped it back to normal. This was 9 years ago, still no problems rolling any of my windows up or down. FormulaONE Pinnacle 15 ceramic tint, lifetime warranty on the film and installation quality if done at an FormulaONE authorized shop. If it ever bubbles or cracks or if they didn't clean the window properly before tinting it and you can see streaks or handprints at night, months afterwards when the tint is dried on the inside, get the job redone, free at any authorized shop, doesn't have to be the same one.
Also if you have a UL, be sure to tell them you have double-paned glass. The place that did mine told me they appreciated knowing that because holding the heat gun for too long on one spot can crack, delaminate the 2 panes, or shatter the glass. I suppose it would also be nice to warn them that the soft rubber trim needs to be _carefully_ pried back, and jamming a screwdriver or other narrow edge into it is a bad idea. They should use a wide, flat, plastic pry tool to push the tint past the rubber, and to ensure the rubber shape is restored after pushing the tint in. I also saw them spray soapy water in a way causing a lot of the water to bounce off the window and into the window up/down switches. I told them there are expensive electronics in there and they shouldn't be getting soapy water into anything electrical. These tint technicians are supposed to be the experts, but if they aren't going to buy you new trim, windows, or window control switch panels, best to inform them of these details and prevent these errors upfront.
Also if you have a UL, be sure to tell them you have double-paned glass. The place that did mine told me they appreciated knowing that because holding the heat gun for too long on one spot can crack, delaminate the 2 panes, or shatter the glass. I suppose it would also be nice to warn them that the soft rubber trim needs to be _carefully_ pried back, and jamming a screwdriver or other narrow edge into it is a bad idea. They should use a wide, flat, plastic pry tool to push the tint past the rubber, and to ensure the rubber shape is restored after pushing the tint in. I also saw them spray soapy water in a way causing a lot of the water to bounce off the window and into the window up/down switches. I told them there are expensive electronics in there and they shouldn't be getting soapy water into anything electrical. These tint technicians are supposed to be the experts, but if they aren't going to buy you new trim, windows, or window control switch panels, best to inform them of these details and prevent these errors upfront.
Yeah my driver's window does the exact same thing, but it only does it when it gets cold outside, and it starts right at the front and rolls all the way over. Did this on the OG window and on the replacement window as well, so the rubber has gone bad at the front I'm assuming
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TriniLex
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
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Jul 7, 2014 11:13 PM









