Have you ever heard a Flathead Ford backing off through glass packs? The 430 has the same firing order as the Flathead so if we could disable the computer while "engine breaking" we would have a very cool sounding car. I can live with the starter sound, how about some exhaust sound.....LOL

 

This is my 3rd ls430 my 03 never did it oddly enough but my 04 and my current car an 05 do, so letting the car sit on ac power for like 5 seconds prior would that help it start more efficiently or is it just a trait of the 4.3 3uz

 

Agreed on that this summer I will be getting a full 2.25 custom exhaust with x pipe made and these mufflers




The exhaust with the PPE headers I allready have on will make the car sound beastly lol

 

I've seen videos of them with exhaust and they sound amazing. However, for me, the silence is a big part of the appeal and character of the LS.

Now, my old Yukon I just had the exhaust upgraded so I can get my fix. It sounds amazing. Crackles and all. Long live the Chevy small block.

 

No, it doesnt help. Been there done that, no difference.

 

Its not just the LS430 that does it as well. Anything with a UZ engine does it, as well as S-series engines with an automatic behind it (my 3S not so much as it too has 1000cca of grunt behind it)

 

I have a LS400 that takes longer to start, first time everyday. I found that stepping on the gas pedal helps it start quickly. After that, and for the rest of the day, it starts really well, without stepping on the gas pedal. May be something to try on the LS430?

 

Does delayed start have anything to do with building oil pressure?

 

Hmmn. I have an SC430 and have never noticed the start to be long. It's the same 4.3 V8 3UZ-FE engine.
Here is the sound sequence of my startup. Recording begins with the door closing. It is from my Magnaflow thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-cat-back.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-magnaflow.mp3

 

Uh the engine HAS to spin at least far enough for both the cam and crank long reluctor tooth/gap to index electrically in the computer and it simply does one full turn on the cams (two engine) and then starts. Older engines with mechanically indexed spark systems can start instantly once the crank and only the crank or the cam and only the cam long reluctor notch passes the hall sensor since the computer "knows" that the other monitored system (crank or am) MUST be in a particular place in the 720* cycle and can then fire the right injector and send a spark.

That's why the 5.7 gen1 Chevy engines (Known as vortech) or the Chrysler magnum engines depending on when everything stopped when last shutoff can sometimes start literally instantly. They have a mechanically indexed distributor for the ignition that HAS to be pointing at a certain cylinder if the cam reluctor is in a certain position, it's why you can literally pull the crank sensor off those engines when running and they won't shut off and you can also start then without it. It's also the same reason many domestic engines can loose the crank sensor and have a "long crank" but still start since certain engines can simply fill in the blank if the crank sensor is dead since it is able to see the absolute position of the cam.

The 3uz can't do this since the cams and engine don't have a hard connection to each other due to VVT nor to the spark system since it's coil on plug. It could actually start in reverse if it tried to start without at least one full turn of the cam reluctors. As far as the engine is concerned firing TDC can be exhaust or intake until it turns over at least 720* to know what is what or it will inject fuel 360* off from when it's supposed to.

The LS engine doesn't crank that quickly so it can seem kinda long is all but any modern engine has to spin over a couple of times to index all the mechanical parts electrically for the ECUs

 

something something very very dark side

 

So no fuel or spark until after 720 degrees of rotation?

Wonder whether this delay aides pre-start lubrication...or not due to cold-start pressure bypass,.. when most engine wear purportedly occurs.

 

Yes that's correct, it is only two turns of the crank so it probably doesn't do much even with a perfectly functioning drain back valve in he filter. The best it likely does is make sure every passage is full again provided the valve is working, two turns a slow as the UZs go is not enough to bring pressure up past 2-4 psi.

If you want to have "full" pressure at startup an oil accumulator will allow 30psi as soon as you turn the key to "on" and will keep it there long enough to start and the pump to take over.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing...yABEgLe-_D_BwE

I have one of these on my truck/toy to make sure it doesn't loose oil due to movement in the pan during turns and to give full pressure when I start it since it sits for up to two months.