'Fixed' Mirrors
In summary, if you want fixed mirrors then remove the bottom mirror trim piece, cut the green wire and insert a screw. Just think “Snap, Snip, and Screw”.
The long version.
Givens based on everything I’ve read and discussed with the dealership:
- This is happening more frequently as described by this Service Bulletin EL0004-05
- I was well past my extended warranty which I assume applies to everyone reading this post
- Lexus doesn’t repair mirrors
- I did not want to disassemble the mirror assembly
- Both of my mirrors are dysfunctional, so I really didn’t want to spend $1500
- Used mirrors on Ebay, etc would eventually exhibit the same issue
- I don’t need the auto-folding feature and would be happy with ‘fixed’ mirrors
- Worst case, I buy two new mirrors
- Luckily I kept a previously broken LH mirror for practice and close-ups
- As a previous GM door Engineer, I was going to find a solution
2nd, I tried unplugging the switch connector, but the mirrors still rotated when I started the car, as mikej65 explains. Now I couldn’t operate them.
3rd, I decided to follow mikej65’s instructions and cut the power. I removed the RH door trim panel, found the green wire and cut it per photo #1. I reattached the trim panel and confirmed that my mirror housing would not rotate after restarting the car. I also confirmed that all other power movements still worked properly, including reverse tilt down.
4th, I noticed that my suddenly flaccid mirror wouldn’t find a natural stop/detent to hold while driving, so I started playing with my old broken mirror. I decided to run a screw up into the mechanism to prevent any rotation. Good thing I didn’t have to worry about voiding a warranty.
Looking at the mirror from above (photo #2), I found the trim piece corner denoted with a circle. I forcefully pushed down/in to remove it. The longest barb (photo #3) broke off on both attempts. I tried gluing them back on but to no avail.
5th, much to my surprise, once I removed the trim piece, I could easily see the wire bundle. Practicing again on my scrap mirror, I sliced open the sleeve and fished for the green wire (photo #4). Since I had to open this area anyway to insert a screw, I decided that this method was much smarter to access/cut the green wire than removing the door trim panel.
6th, I decided to drill a 1/8” hole and insert a 1” galvanized screw near the light lens (photo #4). I had to apply more drilling force than expected due to a metal layer. Also, make sure that the screw head is small enough to fit past the trim flange. My reasons for this location were threefold, 1) the mirror had a nice cylindrical target, 2) it was furthest away from the door sheet metal to facilitate a drill, and 3) it was the furthest away from the pivot point to stop mirror rotation under wind force.
7th, I shaved off the nub (photo #5) that used my screw location and snapped it back into place without the broken barb.
I still love this ‘fix’ after a week of driving. I hope it helps someone because this took a while to document.
I suspect that there are two categories of LS430 owners:
1. Those that have this problem.
2. Those that will have this problem (if they keep their cars long enough).
Your great effort goes in my "keep" file. Good work!
Here is a different fix for this over rotation of the outside side view rear view mirror issue. This one is easier, will make it look and work like new. It solves the same problem another way with much less butchery. I am" very" surprised that this fix has not gotten more attention on this form due to it's frequency of occurrence, outcome, ease or repair and cost.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-05-cents.html
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In summary, if you want fixed mirrors then remove the bottom mirror trim piece, cut the green wire and insert a screw. Just think “Snap, Snip, and Screw”.
The long version.
Givens based on everything I’ve read and discussed with the dealership:
- This is happening more frequently as described by this Service Bulletin EL0004-05
- I was well past my extended warranty which I assume applies to everyone reading this post
- Lexus doesn’t repair mirrors
- I did not want to disassemble the mirror assembly
- Both of my mirrors are dysfunctional, so I really didn’t want to spend $1500
- Used mirrors on Ebay, etc would eventually exhibit the same issue
- I don’t need the auto-folding feature and would be happy with ‘fixed’ mirrors
- Worst case, I buy two new mirrors
- Luckily I kept a previously broken LH mirror for practice and close-ups
- As a previous GM door Engineer, I was going to find a solution
2nd, I tried unplugging the switch connector, but the mirrors still rotated when I started the car, as mikej65 explains. Now I couldn’t operate them.
3rd, I decided to follow mikej65’s instructions and cut the power. I removed the RH door trim panel, found the green wire and cut it per photo #1. I reattached the trim panel and confirmed that my mirror housing would not rotate after restarting the car. I also confirmed that all other power movements still worked properly, including reverse tilt down.
4th, I noticed that my suddenly flaccid mirror wouldn’t find a natural stop/detent to hold while driving, so I started playing with my old broken mirror. I decided to run a screw up into the mechanism to prevent any rotation. Good thing I didn’t have to worry about voiding a warranty.
Looking at the mirror from above (photo #2), I found the trim piece corner denoted with a circle. I forcefully pushed down/in to remove it. The longest barb (photo #3) broke off on both attempts. I tried gluing them back on but to no avail.
5th, much to my surprise, once I removed the trim piece, I could easily see the wire bundle. Practicing again on my scrap mirror, I sliced open the sleeve and fished for the green wire (photo #4). Since I had to open this area anyway to insert a screw, I decided that this method was much smarter to access/cut the green wire than removing the door trim panel.
6th, I decided to drill a 1/8” hole and insert a 1” galvanized screw near the light lens (photo #4). I had to apply more drilling force than expected due to a metal layer. Also, make sure that the screw head is small enough to fit past the trim flange. My reasons for this location were threefold, 1) the mirror had a nice cylindrical target, 2) it was furthest away from the door sheet metal to facilitate a drill, and 3) it was the furthest away from the pivot point to stop mirror rotation under wind force.
7th, I shaved off the nub (photo #5) that used my screw location and snapped it back into place without the broken barb.
I still love this ‘fix’ after a week of driving. I hope it helps someone because this took a while to document.



