How much was it to mod the arms like that?

 

Doesn't this adjust on the wrong side of the linkage though? You push the leveling and endlink mount when adjusted.

 

isn't that why the leveling link is adjustable? if both sides are adjusted to the same camber degree than the leveling link is essentially the same distance on both sides, so setting it would be the same.

yes your arms are a better idea in the sense of not having to adjust those. given the access to tools that i have i was only able to locate the turnbuckle i used, and i machined the bungs, delrin bushings and stainless steel pivot tubes myself. the arms I made are butt-welded and plug welded on top of that. i think your arms have a better adjusting location, i was not able to put my adjusting location where yours is because i did not want to cut out the balljoint end and have to take away structural integrity from that. The position you see the turnbuckle most of the threads inside the bungs, and it is stock length at that point, so when the car is lowered and i adjust it in to straighten out the camber it puts more thread inside the bung. I made these this way for several reasons, mainly being that i don't like to replace tires often, i want to be able to lower my car and align it and not worry about it. i would rather have a bushing to pivot on at the cross-member than a heim. they are essentially adjustable stock arms.

I made these for my own car, then lowered430's car, and that is all i am going to make. also i have been driving on these for a while and have no issues.

if there are any other questions or comments you have for me i will gladly accept them in my private messages.

thanks for your time.

 

i can not answer that, i owed lowered430 some money for a frame table that i bought from him so it was done to settle some debt and at a very good deal.

 

No worries, I was not trying to criticize your design specifically, just commenting on things as I think them through. I thought the leveling was only used on one side, are there potentiometers on both sides or just front and rear?

I dropped my protos off to be coated and just heard they are done. Going to try and pick them up tomorrow.

 

The UL models have sensors on both sides front and rear.

 

Any update on these FIGS?

 

I had a little hiccup on one of the arms I made (welded the tabs on the wrong end.)
But I remade it and waiting to put it in the PC mix with some other parts I am working on.

 

so i have the 5mm shorter than stock arms, if i went with yours could i remove say another 3-4mm of negative camber without hurting anything else?? if so then when and how much for a set of yours?? seriously though

i drive 2k+ miles a month and am spending a lot on expensive toyo proxes T1R's and want to reduce some more of my negative camber...

 

I do believe those arms from FIGS are more for adding camber if Im not mistaken.

 

so why not use to take away camber if you can add camber ^ ^ ^

 

I do believe they are longer then the stocks. So you wouldnt be able to reduce camber unless he makes a set thats shorter.

 

you have a good point sir... so it looks like i am looking for a shorter than the 5mm shorter than stock arms...

you all must not drive many miles or must not be as low as me, cuz i have almost 3 degrees of negative camber with the 5mm less than stock arms on and the 5mm shorter ones only took off about a degree of negative camber. so the 5mm longer than stock would put you at like near 5 degrees and these rods are supposed to give you more,, wow that is some serious camberage. on my stretched tires the inner lip on my rims would be garbage if i tried to drive with that much negative camber.

 

Not sure what my rear camber is at right not. My car is lowered quite a bit as Im practically tucking the rears. I need more camber to fit my new wheels as the width and offset dont allow me to run them without fender damage. My rear fenders are also shaved.

 

how often do you get allignment? I have friends who run -6 to -9 camber and dont have problems with tires.. it all depends on your toe