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Rear camber adjustment

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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by dalarainc
I have a Megan Racing Camber Kit and coil overs I have been playing with the adjustment for a while but I'm still experiencing rubbing on the rear wheels, I'm almost out of adjustment and I think I'm just going to change the wheels all together from 20x10 to 20x9.5
I experienced this. The more you increase negative camber with the lower arm, the more the caster changes. The rear wheel will push forward causing it to rub around the 9-10 o'clock position if you are looking at the drivers side rear wheel. To recenter the wheel, you need the rear traction rods.

It's been a pain in the butt and a real learning experience, especially with my aggressive wheel setup.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #272  
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bump for update from Figs
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:40 PM
  #273  
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Will, any chance you know how much degree can you max the megan camber arms before needing the traction arms to recenter the wheel?
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 02:35 PM
  #274  
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Originally Posted by Celsior21
Will, any chance you know how much degree can you max the megan camber arms before needing the traction arms to recenter the wheel?
i think its anything past around -7*+
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 02:44 PM
  #275  
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When I had it set to -5 degrees, my rear wheels were off center already.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #276  
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Well, let me add that the wheels were off center enough to cause rubbing, but I'm running 20x11 +12 in the rear. For someone with a less aggressive setup, it may not be enough to cause an issue.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 03:53 PM
  #277  
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It was pretty close for me as well running 20x11 +19. I was planning for a little more camber just to get the panel sitting between lip and tire. I'm thinking around -5 camber would clean things up. But I may need traction arms as well. Hoping FIGS would have something by now. But I've given up on that.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 01:00 AM
  #278  
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Originally Posted by Celsior21
It was pretty close for me as well running 20x11 +19. I was planning for a little more camber just to get the panel sitting between lip and tire. I'm thinking around -5 camber would clean things up. But I may need traction arms as well. Hoping FIGS would have something by now. But I've given up on that.
Don't give up quite yet. Hoping to have about 7 sets welded up next week. We lost the tabs in the shop move so that was another setback. I hired another fabricator just to do these. So I should be able to release the front, toe and rear links in that time

stay tuned.
Mike
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by Mr.Doback
i think its anything past around -7*+
im also rubbing at the 9'clock(driver) & 3'clock(pass). thats with a 10.5 +20 and -4 camber...so, it seems as the traction rods are a must have with the camber arms. this is with the megan racing set up.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:27 PM
  #280  
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Thinking of selling my wheels and running natural camber, so I might have my suspension arms up for sale soon if anyone is interested.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #281  
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did you get the traction arms^^^
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #282  
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Yeah I've got traction, toe, and camber arms in the rear.

I also have a set of Nagisa Auto front upper control arms.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #283  
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How much camber were you running Will? My plan is to go with traction and camber arms in the rear since i am not planning to go beyond -7 degree. How much are you planning to sell each item for? I may consider them. Also are you running and lowering blocks?
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:20 AM
  #284  
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I was running -6 to fit the rear wheels. My alignment was on point, but the wear I've been experiencing is just unacceptable. I'm not sure if the soft factory air suspension is a factor, but I have a set of AirRex air struts sitting here waiting to be installed.

Yes I have lowering blocks front and rear.

I think my plan is to get fender work done, so I don't have to run so much negative camber for wheel clearance.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:29 AM
  #285  
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^^^pm'ed^^^
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